Re: 440 Rear Main Crank Seal Install
[Re: CYACOP]
#511870
10/30/09 10:01 PM
10/30/09 10:01 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
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The rope seal is old school, but I used them way back, just push the rope into the cap with one end just a little above flush, cut off the other with a razor blade ,do the block the same. before installing crank put some oil on it. To install the cap, lube the rope seal,dab some sealant on each mating surface, dip the 2 fiber stick in oil [do not soak as they swell fast} slip the cap into place, insert the fiber sticks with out sealant all the way down, tighten the bolts. The other pieces are for the slant 6 
it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
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Re: 440 Rear Main Crank Seal Install
[Re: TJP]
#511872
10/31/09 03:13 AM
10/31/09 03:13 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,958
SW Fla.
CYACOP
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,958
SW Fla.
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Quote:
If it's an old rope seal kit you might be OK. The newer ones will shrink after 6 months or so and will create a massive leak.
 It seems like the rope is impregnated with graphite or something.
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Re: 440 Rear Main Crank Seal Install
[Re: CYACOP]
#511873
10/31/09 09:00 AM
10/31/09 09:00 AM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,139
West Tennessee
rbstroker
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,139
West Tennessee
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I installed mine yesterday. The rope seals are cut with a razorblade after packing into the grooves. The ends are siliconed with the same silver silicone as in the package. after installing the retainer cap, I filled the side seal areas with silicone per instructions. I did keep packing it down with a long wooden matchstick however. You can see it ooze out as it works its way down. If they had a long nozzle, you could fill from bottom up and not have any doubts about 100% coverage. Hope I got it right.
This is the land of the free
because of the brave
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Re: 440 Rear Main Crank Seal Install
[Re: RapidRobert]
#511875
10/31/09 12:35 PM
10/31/09 12:35 PM
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,288
Oregon
sg66mopar
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,288
Oregon
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Quote:
Quote:
If they had a long nozzle, you could fill from bottom up and not have any doubts about 100% coverage. Hope I got it right.
Why couldn't a person fill the grooves ahead of time w a generous amt & some on the block walls then install the retainer cap? Sounds easy & I would think it'd be very effective so I must be missing something 
That's how I do mine when the motor is in the car. I try to get the groove as full as possible, then put RTV on the sides of the block as well. You need to be careful to not wiggle the retainer around after its bottomed on the block. Also make sure you have some RTV on the retainer/block parting line. I believe that's where most of the leaks originate, then the oil runs down the grooves or back of the retainer, making it hard to track down the origin.
The new Felpro kits come with two little pipe cleaners. You soak them in water, then stuff them in the slot, right through the RTV. The water reacts with the RTV to make it set up. I bought a package of pipe cleaners and now I make my own. Sounds hokey but it seams to work. 
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Re: 440 Rear Main Crank Seal Install
[Re: sg66mopar]
#511876
10/31/09 01:24 PM
10/31/09 01:24 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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alright well my neighbor smokes a pipe so I'll see if I can bum some cleaners from him. and should I use any sealer under the seal itself (between the seal & the retainer)
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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