Tonight I'm thinking a head..and that means paint, my body is done, I'm likely using Dupont, NAson or ChromaBase, not sure yet. I've used Dupont primers and sealers and it's pretty much ready to shoot, save for a little scuffing of the sealer coat.

I've only ever shot Acrylic Enamel. So I know your gloss needs to be achieved as you spray, From what I understand on a basecoat, you (if shooting Metallic) must cover evenly, and thats about it, seeing as it's usually a flat finish until you clear..is this correct?

You only spray enouth base on to cover. Do not over load it. Then you can clear, sand, buff.

Sounds pretty good..I heard that about using just enough..does the overloading it cause peeling/cracking?

I'd only recommend the Dupont Chroma Premier BC/CC, the Nason line is pure crap, don't even waste your time/$$$ on it,....if you have good experience spraying single stage paint, the BC/CC will come very easy to you, just follow the manufacturers time lines between coats/flash off time, avoid heavy coats during baseing,just enough to produce the desired color (if metallic or pearl, dust the LAST base coat from about 2 feet, to make the paint stand on "edge", creates more "effect" in the shimmer, when cleared later) as it may wrinkle during CC'ing if the base is too thick/trapped from flashing off,....the clearcoat has been reformulated, follow reducing tables/ratios accurately, apply 3-4 thin wet coats, avoid heavy coats, I generally wait 15 mins between clear coats before appling the next, I like to wait 1 week before cutting the finished clear with 1000 grit paper, then 1500,2000,2500 grit, then let it vent 1 more week before buffing


Mike

here's a pic. I'm usually better about pics..I'll have a nice one up to share soon.

I talked to the Dupont dealer, he told me the Dupont Chroma Premier is the same exact thing as just regular Dupont Chromabase, the only difference is Premier involves a warranty, no actual chemical difference. Does this sound right? I thought it was odd to give a warranty backed paint system a different/extra name lol

Chroma Premier has to be activated, chromabase does not.the two use different binders and balancers when mixing, they are not the same but they do use the same mixing tints in the formulas.

Not to hijack but there is some good info...what kind of respirator do you need when spraying a base/clear? Please pardon the intrusion...

no problem, good info, bump to top.

Spend a few bucks on tintable sealer,it will save time and $$ ,because you'll spend less time trying to cover primer with your basecoat and you will need alot less of it,since the sealer can be tinted to match your basecoat color, I used to spray alot of Valspar and their Color-Fil was amazing,most of the time it would cover in 1.5 coats leaving nice ground for color,what I loved about it,was the fact that you could have it matched the color of the base almost to the T,requiring only 1 coat of base,and their basecoat also covered in 1-2 coats, I stopped using it because my supplier got cut off, for the money it was the best paint and very easy to apply. You can also look into Matrix paint system,it's very good quality materials at awsome prices, their AG40 clear is one of the best clears on the market, I have been using it for a long time and won't use anything else,it won't die back,will not solvent-pop,easy to apply,not difficult to buff even after few months,true crystal clear,not milky or yellow and it's high-solids clear,requiring only 2-2.5 coats instead of watered down clears that need 4-5 coats or more if you plan on sanding and polishing

Also want to add, when shooting metallic base color, I spray medium/wet coat and finish off with light coat in criss-cross pattern for the metallics to lay uniform without mottling ,spraying too far away on semi-dry surface will only create problems,the metallics will not lay down right and will end up looking frizzy and gritty, also use slow reducer when shooting light metallics colors, it will help controlling metallics

spraying too far away on semi-dry surface will only create problems,the metallics will not lay down right and will end up looking frizzy and gritty, also use slow reducer when shooting light metallics colors, it will help controlling metallics

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Stefan,....I know every painter has their own developed/learned techniques,.......I generally find when spraying metallics/pearls that dusting ON the LAST base coat of metallic/pearl/flop/etc prior to clear coating enhances the brillance and suspended depth of the "trick" media,.....but again as we (painters) all know, what works for you, may not work for me


Mike