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B Body Roof Skin Installation
#498583
10/16/09 12:37 PM
10/16/09 12:37 PM
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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Hey Guys I have a 68 charger and im looking to purchase one of the AMD roof skins for replacement. Has anybody done a roof skin on a B body? Can you tell me what is involved and will i need to replace the drip channels mine are in exceleent condition. Any help would be appreciated I have done floorpans patch panels quarters etc. Thanks in advance
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Re: B Body Roof Skin Installation
[Re: IMGTX]
#498585
10/16/09 01:53 PM
10/16/09 01:53 PM
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 129
waukon iowa
1hot68
member
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member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 129
waukon iowa
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I used an AMD roof skin on my 69 Charger and it fit pretty well. I used new drip rails ,but only cause my Charger needed new ones due to rust. If yours are fine then reuse them.
Last edited by 1hot68; 10/16/09 01:54 PM.
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Re: B Body Roof Skin Installation
[Re: 1hot68]
#498586
10/16/09 03:44 PM
10/16/09 03:44 PM
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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Thanks I appreciate it. Does the roof skin attach were the windshield lip is in the front all the way to the rear windshield lip on the back is? I have to go look at the car but im assuming were the sking attaches in the front and rear by the winsheilds are mostly spot welded on. And were the drip channels are there appears to be some kind of compound that needs to be removed like the gentleman indicated above that will reveal spotwelds. In the Front it looks like the skin goes down the front pillar towards the fender is the factory roof skin terminated there as well or did you graft it in up higher? Apreciate the responses experience is worth alot and Id like to know what im dealing with ahead of time. Thansk Again..
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Re: B Body Roof Skin Installation
[Re: 1hot68]
#498588
10/16/09 06:13 PM
10/16/09 06:13 PM
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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Thanks alot I really appreciate it.. I can see no wi better order a couple more spot weld cutters thanks for the pictures
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Re: B Body Roof Skin Installation
[Re: 1hot68]
#498589
10/16/09 06:16 PM
10/16/09 06:16 PM
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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Hey one more quick question is the skin tacked to the braces at all or does it just lay on top of it for support?
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Re: B Body Roof Skin Installation PICS???
[Re: 1hot68]
#498591
01/13/10 02:08 PM
01/13/10 02:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,031
Erda, UT
67Charger
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,031
Erda, UT
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Can someone give a closeup of the weld area? I'm going to be doing the roof skin on my '68 Charger soon and want to get as much info in advance as I can.
11.33 @ 118.46 on motor
10.75 @ 125.35 w/ a little spray
Now, high Speed Open Road Racing - Silver State Classic Challenge, Nevada Open Road Challenge, Big Bend Open Road Race
Rocky Mountain Race Week 2020, 2022 2.0, Sick Week 2023
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Re: B Body Roof Skin Installation
[Re: elitecustombody]
#498593
01/13/10 02:41 PM
01/13/10 02:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,031
Erda, UT
67Charger
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,031
Erda, UT
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I've got a blair cutter, and it will be a while before I have the skin to put on. I have to blast the body first. The roof skin is trash from a weathered vinyl top letting moisture in and I want to remove it before blasting so I can get all the braces clean and repaired. I just need to know what will and won't come with the new skin so I don't cut off pieces that must stay/be repaired. Mostly the drip rail area is what I'm concerned with.
Thanks!
11.33 @ 118.46 on motor
10.75 @ 125.35 w/ a little spray
Now, high Speed Open Road Racing - Silver State Classic Challenge, Nevada Open Road Challenge, Big Bend Open Road Race
Rocky Mountain Race Week 2020, 2022 2.0, Sick Week 2023
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Re: B Body Roof Skin Installation
[Re: 67Charger]
#498595
01/13/10 03:42 PM
01/13/10 03:42 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
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Quote:
I've got a blair cutter, and it will be a while before I have the skin to put on. I have to blast the body first. The roof skin is trash from a weathered vinyl top letting moisture in and I want to remove it before blasting so I can get all the braces clean and repaired. I just need to know what will and won't come with the new skin so I don't cut off pieces that must stay/be repaired. Mostly the drip rail area is what I'm concerned with.
once you start removing the old skin, you'll see what all the seams,
Thanks!
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Re: B Body Roof Skin Installation
[Re: demon]
#498597
01/14/10 11:01 PM
01/14/10 11:01 PM
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 287
Greenville, N.C.
BarrsRestoration
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 287
Greenville, N.C.
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Quote:
A spot weld cutter is completely un necessary on a roof skin replacement.
Unless you plan to save the removed roof skin there is no need to use a spotweld cutter anywhere on this job.
What you do is remove all parts like the trim,windshield,roof rails etc and then melt out the lead in the joints(or bondo if it was a vinyl roof car). Then use a air chisel CAREFULLY to remove the skin aroun the perimeter without trying to seperate the welds yet- just get the majority removed. Now you have access to all the spotwelds. Use a cut off saw with a thicker zip disc to "erase" the spotwelds. As you get good you will get the feel of it and be able to go just far enough thru the top layer to let the welds pop free. Once you have all the old roof chunks gone just check all your mating areas for smoothness so the new one can drop right on. The roof of a car is the last panel welded on when new so it is an easy panel to do compared to most. You can use a regular drill bit to make the holes for plug welding.
I have seen SO many people screw up panel replacement by misuse of spotweld drills. They have their place but this is a classic example of a job that has zero need for one.
I agree. As I was reading the suggestions I thought to myself that a spotweld drill bit would be useless and probably destructive to the underlying metal on replacing a roof skin. Much better to "erase" the spotwelds. I use a cut-off tool with either a 3M #1989 or #1990 cut-off wheel. I follow with a 1&1/2" wide stiff scraper with a hammer behind it.
Steve
www.clarkclassic.com
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Re: B Body Roof Skin Installation
[Re: demon]
#498598
01/14/10 11:48 PM
01/14/10 11:48 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
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Quote:
A spot weld cutter is completely un necessary on a roof skin replacement.
Unless you plan to save the removed roof skin there is no need to use a spotweld cutter anywhere on this job.
What you do is remove all parts like the trim,windshield,roof rails etc and then melt out the lead in the joints(or bondo if it was a vinyl roof car). Then use a air chisel CAREFULLY to remove the skin aroun the perimeter without trying to seperate the welds yet- just get the majority removed. Now you have access to all the spotwelds. Use a cut off saw with a thicker zip disc to "erase" the spotwelds. As you get good you will get the feel of it and be able to go just far enough thru the top layer to let the welds pop free. Once you have all the old roof chunks gone just check all your mating areas for smoothness so the new one can drop right on. The roof of a car is the last panel welded on when new so it is an easy panel to do compared to most. You can use a regular drill bit to make the holes for plug welding.
I have seen SO many people screw up panel replacement by misuse of spotweld drills. They have their place but this is a classic example of a job that has zero need for one.
LMAO!! This has got to be one of the most ignorant posts I've read in a while.
You're actually telling everyone that it's better to hack up ,rip and butcher off old skin than actually using proper tool that will remove the remove old skin without distorting not only pinchwelds ,but most important, the actual roof structure?
Not sure what your defenition of "spotweld cutter" is, but it's actually a tool that will remove spotwelds without any damage to underlaying metal and in right hands it will take about 3-5 seconds to cut each spotweld,maybe it's time you do some shopping for high quality cutter
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Re: B Body Roof Skin Installation
[Re: elitecustombody]
#498600
01/15/10 12:00 AM
01/15/10 12:00 AM
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 129
waukon iowa
1hot68
member
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member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 129
waukon iowa
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Quote:
Quote:
A spot weld cutter is completely un necessary on a roof skin replacement.
Unless you plan to save the removed roof skin there is no need to use a spotweld cutter anywhere on this job.
What you do is remove all parts like the trim,windshield,roof rails etc and then melt out the lead in the joints(or bondo if it was a vinyl roof car). Then use a air chisel CAREFULLY to remove the skin aroun the perimeter without trying to seperate the welds yet- just get the majority removed. Now you have access to all the spotwelds. Use a cut off saw with a thicker zip disc to "erase" the spotwelds. As you get good you will get the feel of it and be able to go just far enough thru the top layer to let the welds pop free. Once you have all the old roof chunks gone just check all your mating areas for smoothness so the new one can drop right on. The roof of a car is the last panel welded on when new so it is an easy panel to do compared to most. You can use a regular drill bit to make the holes for plug welding.
I have seen SO many people screw up panel replacement by misuse of spotweld drills. They have their place but this is a classic example of a job that has zero need for one.
LMAO!! This has got to be one of the most ignorant posts I've read in a while.
You're actually telling everyone that it's better to hack up ,rip and butcher off old skin than actually using proper tool that will remove the remove old skin without distorting not only pinchwelds ,but most important, the actual roof structure?
Not sure what your defenition of "spotweld cutter" is, but it's actually a tool that will remove spotwelds without any damage to underlaying metal and in right hands it will take about 3-5 seconds to cut each spotweld,maybe it's time you do some shopping for high quality cutter
You might want to look at the drip rail spot welds on a Mopar b-body before you talk like that. They are very close together and they are not round like most spot welds. The grinder tecnique works much better than a spot weld drill in most case and FAR better in this case.
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Re: B Body Roof Skin Installation
[Re: 1hot68]
#498602
01/15/10 12:32 AM
01/15/10 12:32 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
A spot weld cutter is completely un necessary on a roof skin replacement.
Unless you plan to save the removed roof skin there is no need to use a spotweld cutter anywhere on this job.
What you do is remove all parts like the trim,windshield,roof rails etc and then melt out the lead in the joints(or bondo if it was a vinyl roof car). Then use a air chisel CAREFULLY to remove the skin aroun the perimeter without trying to seperate the welds yet- just get the majority removed. Now you have access to all the spotwelds. Use a cut off saw with a thicker zip disc to "erase" the spotwelds. As you get good you will get the feel of it and be able to go just far enough thru the top layer to let the welds pop free. Once you have all the old roof chunks gone just check all your mating areas for smoothness so the new one can drop right on. The roof of a car is the last panel welded on when new so it is an easy panel to do compared to most. You can use a regular drill bit to make the holes for plug welding.
I have seen SO many people screw up panel replacement by misuse of spotweld drills. They have their place but this is a classic example of a job that has zero need for one.
LMAO!! This has got to be one of the most ignorant posts I've read in a while.
You're actually telling everyone that it's better to hack up ,rip and butcher off old skin than actually using proper tool that will remove the remove old skin without distorting not only pinchwelds ,but most important, the actual roof structure?
Not sure what your defenition of "spotweld cutter" is, but it's actually a tool that will remove spotwelds without any damage to underlaying metal and in right hands it will take about 3-5 seconds to cut each spotweld,maybe it's time you do some shopping for high quality cutter
You might want to look at the drip rail spot welds on a Mopar b-body before you talk like that. They are very close together and they are not round like most spot welds. The grinder tecnique works much better than a spot weld drill in most case and FAR better in this case.
if there was enough room at the factory for spotwelder,there is enough room for spotweld cutter, you know,they sell different sizes bit,don't you?
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