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hey dude i have put together lots of 727's for street and race over the past 20 years and i can tell you that the accum spring is not required at all for any 727 even a stocker, i always through them away all it does is absorb hydrolic shock in the main hyd system and that is the last thing you want to happen it will improve yer shifts and extend clutch life.

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THe shuttle valve somehow controls accumulator pressure on 2-1 downshifts, or something like that. Having it blocked will probably firm up the shifts and definetly won't cause any issues with the TF-2 kit.
The Accumulator spring can be removed but should add a steel rod under the piston to eliminate any movment. This would further firm up shifts.
Does it look like it has an aftermarket seperator plate ? Would most likly be gold anidize if it was.
AG

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THe shuttle valve somehow controls accumulator pressure on 2-1 downshifts, or something like that. Having it blocked will probably firm up the shifts and definetly won't cause any issues with the TF-2 kit.
The Accumulator spring can be removed but should add a steel rod under the piston to eliminate any movment. This would further firm up shifts.
Does it look like it has an aftermarket seperator plate ? Would most likly be gold anidize if it was.
AG

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Ok for the rod, any suggestion for approx diameter?
It is gold but more like cadmnium plating...
I will take a picture tonight...

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it will enhance the valve body further by adding the "Shift command"

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and a plug to replace the spring on the 1-2 shift control valve(if equiped depending on year).

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hey dude i have put together lots of 727's for street and race over the past 20 years and i can tell you that the accum spring is not required at all for any 727 even a stocker, i always through them away all it does is absorb hydrolic shock in the main hyd system and that is the last thing you want to happen it will improve yer shifts and extend clutch life.

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The pressure relief ball and spring was eliminated in late '76 but the imprressions left in the pictured plate look like the VB originally had one.

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A 1/4" steel ball dropped into the 1-2 shift control valve spring will block the valve's function, not worthwhile if the accumulator piston is blocked.

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Should I re-install one? If so equiped, the TF kit is requesting to drill a bleed hole through the side of the casting... what is this for?

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There was one ball there... Should I re-install it? If yes, should I still block the accumulator?

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I wonder who's plate that was.

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35 years old car... We will never have the answer to that question!

I must say that I am a bit disapointed about the fact that the valve body has already been modified because it felt stock and the TF-2 will probably not make much of a change...

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Haven't heard anybody mention the line pressure setting. Since going to T/A Cheetah V/B's years ago I haven't messed much with shift kits, but I do remember that we used to get a very firm shifting trans by (1)ditching accumulator spring - no blocker rod (2)increasing line pressure (2 turns ccw IIRC) and (3)installing type "F" fluid. This would get you about 90% of the feel of a good shift kit - for the cost of the fluid, which you have to buy anyways.

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Haven't heard anybody mention the line pressure setting. Since going to T/A Cheetah V/B's years ago I haven't messed much with shift kits, but I do remember that we used to get a very firm shifting trans by (1)ditching accumulator spring - no blocker rod (2)increasing line pressure (2 turns ccw IIRC) and (3)installing type "F" fluid. This would get you about 90% of the feel of a good shift kit - for the cost of the fluid, which you have to buy anyways.

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Didn't mention line pressure settings because a TF-2 kit is going to be installed (as stated in earlier posts)and it includes a line pressure spring(s) and setting instructons.
AG.

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Yeah, I'm not up on what's done in the kits - it seems like all the different makers of them have different ideas on what to do. So I just do the quick and cheap mods that I mentioned for a stocker, or toss in an A&A or T/A V/Body on the H/P or race ones. It's always a crap-shoot once someone has been in there on what was done - sometimes it's better to just start over with a fresh V/B if you don't do a lot of trans work to be able to recognize what has been modified.

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I am installing my TF-2 kit and have a few questions:

1- Someone have previously removed the accumulator spring... What is the purpose and will that be an Issue with the TF-2 Kit?

2- The shuttle valve primary spring was replaced by a solid pin. What is the purpose and is it OK with TF-2 Kit? If I need to put back a spring, can I use my old TV spring? (very stiff, similar to the one provided with the TF-2 kit)

3- I don't know the year of my TF, I assume 1976 approx... Is it normal that I have no line bypass ball & spring?

Thanks,

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Haven't heard anybody mention the line pressure setting. Since going to T/A Cheetah V/B's years ago I haven't messed much with shift kits, but I do remember that we used to get a very firm shifting trans by (1)ditching accumulator spring - no blocker rod (2)increasing line pressure (2 turns ccw IIRC) and (3)installing type "F" fluid. This would get you about 90% of the feel of a good shift kit - for the cost of the fluid, which you have to buy anyways.

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Didn't mention line pressure settings because a TF-2 kit is going to be installed (as stated in earlier posts)and it includes a line pressure spring(s) and setting instructons.
AG.

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Yeah, I'm not up on what's done in the kits - it seems like all the different makers of them have different ideas on what to do. So I just do the quick and cheap mods that I mentioned for a stocker, or toss in an A&A or T/A V/Body on the H/P or race ones. It's always a crap-shoot once someone has been in there on what was done - sometimes it's better to just start over with a fresh V/B if you don't do a lot of trans work to be able to recognize what has been modified.

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