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Re: suggestions for B body road handling suspensions needed
[Re: pro451bee]
#479564
09/26/09 04:28 AM
09/26/09 04:28 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
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Quote:
What autoxcuda said works well , add tubular upper controll arms , weld the plates on your lower arms , beef up the K frame and install frame conectors .I use 17x9 `0' offset wheels , 255 50 17 tire on back and 245 45 17 on front .It works suprizingly well, doesnt ride rough, and tracks nicely to boot . 
For a street cruiser car I don't think the benefits of tubular control arms are going to be felt as much as that other stuff for the dollars spent. I'd put it lower on the priority list.
I also think I'd do the more bolt on stuff before I'd pull the K member and LCA's off just to weld them. Unless you had that stuff off already for some other reason. But if you are switching T-bars you're about halfway to pulling out the K-member or LCA's.
Nothing pro451bee is bad or anything. I'm just trying the approach the project so it doesn't get too overwhelming in money and time. BTW pro451bee, I really like those KMC rims and they are a great value to boot.
Seems everyone that installs frame connectors loves them and can feel an immediate gain. (I just don't have them yet)
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Re: suggestions for B body road handling suspensions needed
[Re: 383coronet]
#479565
09/26/09 06:46 AM
09/26/09 06:46 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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I agree with most everything above regarding improving a street cars handling except:
1. A 1"+ TB by itself will give you the single biggest improvement in handling after a tire/wheel upgrade, and it is relatively easy and quick and cost effective.
2. I would not call the TB change "harsh", I would call it firmer, which I think is a big difference, harshness is more induced by the shock package chosen.
3. Forget tube A arms for now, and LCA reinforcing plates do not offer any improvement noticeable by any human on earth, except for bragging rights on a street car.
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: suggestions for B body road handling suspensions needed
[Re: DennisH ]
#479567
09/26/09 10:11 AM
09/26/09 10:11 AM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 300
MA
Greg55_99
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 300
MA
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Re: suggestions for B body road handling suspensions needed
[Re: 383coronet]
#479569
09/26/09 04:24 PM
09/26/09 04:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
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Quote:
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I already have subframe connectors installed. I am getting rid of the SS springs and going with the XHD springs this winter. I also currently have the .960" B/Rb improved handling torsion bars. I guess I need to invest in some good shocks from reading a few of your responses. Thanks again.
Sounds like you are going to keep the T-bars for now. So, I'd put rims/tires and rear leafs first, then get the stance right, then sway bars, try to get some caster into the alignment, then shocks.
What size and type of front brakes do you have now?
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Re: suggestions for B body road handling suspensions needed
[Re: jcc]
#479571
09/26/09 05:35 PM
09/26/09 05:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
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Quote:
Quote:
Thanks for all the great suggestions. ........ I also currently have the .960" B/Rb improved handling torsion bars. I guess I need to invest in some good shocks from reading a few of your responses. Thanks again.
I'm confused, do you already have the .96" TB installed? If so, how much improvement did the .96" bars give you? I suspect amother thicker bar will do that much increase again. I reread the entire post and no one has ever suggested .96" bars. I am fairly certain based on your post they are not enough. If after all the above responses you feel they are, then you likely do not need to make any other improvements UNTIL you step up to a 1"+ TB. 
What's done is done. But are the .96 on the car now? The O.P. mentioned smoother ride, so I think the .96 T-bars are workable. They will just limit the potential. Tires, sway bars, alignment will still give noticeable improvements.
T-bars are expensive nowadays. But Just Suspension is selling the 1" T-bar size for $199 right now.
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Re: suggestions for B body road handling suspensions needed
[Re: autoxcuda]
#479572
09/26/09 06:19 PM
09/26/09 06:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,832
A collage of whims
topside
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,832
A collage of whims
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That's a wicked cool Coronet! Props to the guy with the Valiant too.
I basically agree with autoxcuda. I'd add a rear sway bar & swap the SS for XHD springs first. Get as much positive caster as you can, but at 7* (my drag car) the steering wheel centers with a vengeance. Get the car lower. Run as much tire & wheel width as you can, and keep 'em close in size: I love big & littles as much as anyone, but they'll accentuate the understeer.
Depending on how far you want to go, you can reinforce the steering box mounts & lower control arms, weld in subframe connectors & torque boxes, move the battery to the trunk, and relocate as much weight as you can as low as you can. And the more braking power you have, the better.
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Re: suggestions for B body road handling suspensions needed
[Re: 383coronet]
#479574
09/26/09 08:28 PM
09/26/09 08:28 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
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Quote:
The .96 bars are already installed. I put those in a few years back when I went from the slant six to my 383. Brakes right now are disc conversion from later A body. The battery is already in the trunk. With my budget right now I am afraid I am stuck with the .960 bars as I feel the springs are more of a necessity.
I agree. The back end looks way raised because of the S/S springs.
BTW you can upgrade to 11.75 disk by just finding some used caliper adapters for 11.75 rotors from a pin or slider type calipers (whichever you have). Those are about $50-75 used. And the rotors are about $50-60 new each.
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Re: suggestions for B body road handling suspensions needed
[Re: 383coronet]
#479575
09/26/09 10:03 PM
09/26/09 10:03 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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The .96 bars are already installed. Brakes right now are disc conversion from later A body. The battery is already in the trunk. With my budget right now I am afraid I am stuck with the .960 bars as I feel the springs are more of a necessity.
Mike, the .960 bars are fine, granted the 1" are nice, but a little overkill, IMHO for a car that will see street action as well, you do need to shake the SS springs, the MP XHD are OK, but I'd recommend using Afco or Espo multileaf springs in the 190 lb rating for the B body, they're about the same cost as XHD,.....also IMHO poly front end bushings are the only way to go, to take advantage of any suspension upgrades,...I'd also recommend a swap to 4 wheel disks, SSBC for the rear, front sway bar should be 1 1/4", Hellwig has a beefy front bar, the rear handles nicely with 1" bar diameter, an adjustable bar is desirable for the rear, but not necessary.....shocks choice is best made by your tire choice, driving style, the type of track/course you may choose, and amount of street usage, but at least start with QA1's, Blistiens, or if in the budget Afco's ($$$)........you have the frame connectors, but anything else you can do to stiffen the chassis will help, torque boxes, stiffing the K frame, esp the steering box mount,....the XV front yoke and sidefirewall stiffners are a great aid in stiffning the front engine "box",.....if you upgrade the steering box, (PS, I assume) Firm Feels stage III is best chosen for a B body
Mike
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