get me a 10.00et
#469516
09/15/09 09:07 PM
09/15/09 09:07 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,285 okla.
sam64
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,285
okla.
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currently i have a 65 coronet that weighs 2988 with me in it its a bb 727 4.86 gears,its currently running 10.70s@123,440 otb eddy heads,comp cams 597 619 solid i know the conv is some of it,it was built for a trans brake 4200,but i can only foot brake it 2400,track changed rules!thanks,sam.also car is back halved w/14-32 m/ts.
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Re: get me a 10.00et
[Re: sam64]
#469521
09/15/09 11:21 PM
09/15/09 11:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,011 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,011
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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My first move would be to dump that monster carb and get an 850 that will work better for you, and a converter to match. Check the cam centerline and make sure it is advanced.I am not sure where that one will run best but might need to be in as low as 100 to 102. Double check everything you have in the car, and try shifting at 6200 or less and see what happens. I think with the converter and carb, plus looking at all of what you have, you should be there without spending much more than the carb/converter money.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: get me a 10.00et
[Re: sam64]
#469522
09/16/09 12:36 AM
09/16/09 12:36 AM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910 Eighty Four, PA
B G Racing
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
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Quote:
currently i have a 65 coronet that weighs 2988 with me in it its a bb 727 4.86 gears,its currently running [Email]10.70s@123[/Email],440 otb eddy heads,comp cams 597 619 solid i know the conv is some of it,it was built for a trans brake 4200,but i can only foot brake it 2400,track changed rules!thanks,sam.also car is back halved w/14-32 m/ts.
More cam(650 ish)bigger heads(Max wedge ports)a good bowl porting job,1050 Holley HP Dominator.95 square jetting to start,may need 97 square(no PVs).Try leaving at just above clean idle(flash the converter)shift at 6500 to 6800 and trap at 6900 should get in that low 10 second et assuming your at 440 to 494 cubic inches.Generally we see properly set up 440"in the 10.20s and 494/500" in the 10 flat high 9s range again assuming your running stock front suspension/back halved springs or ladder bar at 3000# to 3200#
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Re: get me a 10.00et
[Re: gregsdart]
#469523
09/16/09 02:14 AM
09/16/09 02:14 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,448 Phoenix, AZ
MoparBilly
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,448
Phoenix, AZ
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Hmm, easy to do, but I'd be scrapping too many parts to get you there!!
Heavy TRW pistons, I'm guessing. A 440 with Eddie Rpm's isn't going 10.0 with those slugs, unless you add a plate! A victor, or M1 w/adapter would be a tenth or more improvement over the Team G. I agree the gear is too deep, and the converter is too tight, so don't even think of changing the gear until you address the converter problem. Not fond of the cam, but I agree with the previous poster's suggestion to advance it. I like the old 304/640 ultradyne, or the 630 lift hughes solid better.
I'll explain my journey from where you are now, to where you want to get to. 2950lb. Challenger, powerglide 9" 4800 stall, 4.56 gear, 14X32's
I put together a budget 440, TRW 11.5 pistons, stock rods, ported 906's, 555/570 Hughes Hyd. cam, Team G, 1150 dominator, 2 1/8 headers. 10.78-123 best, but in the summer I could barely get below the 10.99 index to run SST. The Hughes Cam was on a 110 lobe center and loved the bottle 9.65-9.80 on a 200-250 hit. I went to an M-1 with a two inch adapter and dropped a solid tenth in hot weather. After two years of running, I rebuilt the short block, added OTB Eddies, and a MP 590 solid cam. Went 10.65-125, then 9.64-136 on 1 stage, then 9.21-142 on two stages, dumping the rods out at 1100ft. 7 passes on my new Eddie Rpm's and they had pushrod dents in the deck and 4 bent intake valves!
My new 440 Short block had aluminum mains, aluminum rods, and ross pistons. A 304/640 ultradyne cam, the Eddies got a gasket match on both sides and an .010 taken off the deck. The first 20 or so passes were dissapointing until I realized the 9" converter had a sprag going away. Put in an 8" 5600 stall and went 10.12-131 almost immediately. That was the best combination for all out on the motor, but the 8" converter wasn't ideal for SST t-stop racing, and the nitrous would cut right through it jumping the Rpm to 7100 when you stacked the 2nd system on. Still netted my first 8..8.96 at only 146, trapping at 7550. I ended up with the 9" back in, spragless this time, and a 4.30 gear. While it improved the car on the stop, and bottle, it cost a little in ET, all out/NA, with the car typically around 10.25-132. Years later, after a freshen-up, the Eddie RPMs got about "10 hours worth of bowl work, just a little clean-up" in the words of my machinist, and another .010 off the deck, and in excellent conditions it went an all-out best of 9.96-134.2 with the tight converter and mild gear.
"Livin' in a powder keg and givin' off sparks"
4 Street cars, 5 Race engines
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Re: get me a 10.00et
[Re: MoparBilly]
#469524
09/16/09 11:51 AM
09/16/09 11:51 AM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,864 IN
Irun5snd8th
master
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master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,864
IN
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From a curiosity standpoint why was the 8" converter bad for T stop racing?
AFCO, Rons Fuel Injection sponsored Dodge Challenger
Mention Street Lethal Motorsports
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Re: get me a 10.00et
[Re: sam64]
#469526
09/17/09 12:07 AM
09/17/09 12:07 AM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 877 ky
68roadrunner
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 877
ky
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Quote:
thanks for all the info,i built a 500" indy -1 headed motor and made 1and a half passes before carnage so i'm back to the old 440,its been 10.50s in cool air best 60ft are 1.50 ,but as stated conv was speced for trans brake.i'll just race my 12.00 63 belvedere untill i figure out what to do next.
so what happened to your 500"
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Re: get me a 10.00et
[Re: Irun5snd8th]
#469527
09/17/09 01:18 AM
09/17/09 01:18 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,448 Phoenix, AZ
MoparBilly
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,448
Phoenix, AZ
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Quote:
From a curiosity standpoint why was the 8" converter bad for T stop racing?
The 8" would slip excessively on the stop, not allowing the car to repeat on the stop...kinda like putting it in nuetral! In order to get repeatable numbers, I had to raise the stop Rpm, and go further out (1 second before going on), this forced me to use a long duration on the stop, so it pushed me further ahead of the competition, and further down the track when hitting WOT again. Workable, but far from optimum.
Mr. Barker (sam64) is easily one the best bracket racers in the Ok/Mo area, and always represents the Mopar door crowd well.
"Livin' in a powder keg and givin' off sparks"
4 Street cars, 5 Race engines
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