Big block, auto trans, mini starter with headers and console shifter.

So a couple months ago I was leaving a local show and got a *click* when I went to start it. Tried to jump across the starter relay terminals--nothing but some sparks. Hooked up the jumper cables thinking battery was dead--nothing. Then I saw the wire from the starter relay to the starter was a little burnt by a header pipe--aha! So I jumped across the terminals at the starter and she cranked right up.

When I got home, I replaced the wire from the relay to the starter. While I was at it, I replaced the relay and positive battery cable too. Fixed!!! Or so I thought.

Yesterday it started doing the same thing again! So is it the contacts in my starter? Not much left to replace. What's a good source for the contacts.

(I'm still not sure why it will jump across at the starter but not at the relay??)

Take a few minutes and go over your ground wires, might be something simple.

Yeah that sounds like the classic starter failing Click...

My did that for about 5 starts and then no-more start just click...

Contacts I get from the local rebuilder, just walk in with the ones you need and they will matchem up...I changed to the mini-starter after mine went and will never go backkkkk


PLAZ

You HAVE to jump AT THE STARTER to see for sure whether it's the starter, and that only "gets it down" to the following:

Battery cables

Starter solenoid

Starter

Don't be too quick to blame the solenoid or the starter--here's how they work. The solenoid has TWO magnetic windings, the "pull in" winding and the "hold in" winding. The "pull in" winding is IN SERIES with the starter motor armature.

What this means is----

if the pull in winding is bad, the solenoid won't pull in

if the STARTER is bad, and the pull in winding is good OR bad, the solenoid will not pull in

So if you jumper it and it won't pull in, you still have to keep that in mind, plus=====

I've had at least one factory connection at the starter break inside the battery cable. These used to be a molded one--piece connector with both the battery cable and solenoid wire molded together---engine vibration can break the wire inside the connector.

Also, just because you replaced that wire once doesn't mean it's good now.

I thought something was funny that it would jump at the starter but not at the relay as the brown solenoid wire is fairly heavy and has a molded connection on each end & I had never see one fail.