Re: Challenger t/a blower motor
[Re: Moparnut]
#45328
02/23/07 09:11 AM
02/23/07 09:11 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Does this apply only to Challengers or is it accross all body lines and years.
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Re: Challenger t/a blower motor
#45329
02/23/07 11:35 AM
02/23/07 11:35 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,957
West Coast, CA
Troy
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,957
West Coast, CA
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Being these are clear zinc and that there riveted together with a funky rivet....How does one take it apart to plate it?
....there is nothing like driving my 1968 Hemi Dart around town and having people looking at you like you're nuts!!
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Re: Challenger t/a blower motor
[Re: JulesdaWiperman]
#45331
02/23/07 03:15 PM
02/23/07 03:15 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,957
West Coast, CA
Troy
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,957
West Coast, CA
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Good Answer!!  I have never had one of those apart before. When I looked at it I thought the pan heads on the ends were rivets, not screws. Thanks for the picture.
....there is nothing like driving my 1968 Hemi Dart around town and having people looking at you like you're nuts!!
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Re: Challenger t/a blower motor
[Re: JulesdaWiperman]
#45333
07/25/09 12:34 PM
07/25/09 12:34 PM
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4
California
mitandt
member
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member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4
California
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My son and I are restoring a 1970 Dodge Challenger, 318 V8, without AC. We are rebuilding the heater box and even though the motor was working before we took the box out, it was recommended to us that we replace the motor while the box was out. This is the first time I've found a picture of the motor we are trying to replace and have been totally unsuccessful in finding the correct over the counter replacement part after 3 months of searching (must be doing something wrong for surely it can't be this hard). The original motor shaft has no side play and what appears to be normal end play. We are beginning to wonder if we should simply carefully disassemble the original motor (it is, in fact, zinc), clean and lube the bushings and put it back in. So here are my questions:
1. Should we refurbish the old motor or get a new one?
2. If refurbish, what is the procedure, lubricant, etc.?
3. If getting a new one, what is the right manufacturer, part number and source?
Thanks.
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Re: Challenger t/a blower motor
[Re: mitandt]
#45334
07/25/09 01:36 PM
07/25/09 01:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Quote:
My son and I are restoring a 1970 Dodge Challenger, 318 V8, without AC. We are rebuilding the heater box and even though the motor was working before we took the box out, it was recommended to us that we replace the motor while the box was out. This is the first time I've found a picture of the motor we are trying to replace and have been totally unsuccessful in finding the correct over the counter replacement part after 3 months of searching (must be doing something wrong for surely it can't be this hard). The original motor shaft has no side play and what appears to be normal end play. We are beginning to wonder if we should simply carefully disassemble the original motor (it is, in fact, zinc), clean and lube the bushings and put it back in. So here are my questions:
1. Should we refurbish the old motor or get a new one?
2. If refurbish, what is the procedure, lubricant, etc.?
3. If getting a new one, what is the right manufacturer, part number and source?
Thanks.
Test it with a 12v. Lube it and go.
Don't take the can off. Just shoot some good quality lube in there. You don't need a new one. And in California the heater and defrost blower doesn't get used that much as to compared back east. I bet you hardly use it when you finish the car. Don't over think it and go too crazy on a budget type build.
The guys above are mainly disassembling them to replate them for high level concours restorations. You can look for some light fine metallic silver spray paint that mimics the cad at the store.
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Re: Challenger t/a blower motor
[Re: mitandt]
#45336
07/25/09 04:53 PM
07/25/09 04:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Quote:
Thanks--sounds like good advice. When you say shoot some good quality lube in, are you talking about lithium grease or oil? Also, are you just talking about the shaft end (since the other end is inside the can? Thanks again.
Some kind of oil that can get in there and stay. I was thinking white lithium spray but it won't get in there. I like Justice Brothers JB80 of course. Just don't use WD40.
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