ive seen the banners here on moparts for 440 source so i checked them out and im just stunned by how low the prices are compared to small block stuff, mostly the stealth heads for $900

im planning on ordering a set of stealth heads

passenger side water pump housing and pump

serpentine pulley set

and a few other parts. im just wondering how the quality of there stuff is overall or if theres anything i should stay away from

They are the place to go. Just check every thing over real good and there balance jobs suck. I've had 100% good luck, have done over 12 stroker engines useing there parts. A lot of people knock there stuff, that is to bad. There cranks and rods are Chinese made, well so is every one elses cranks and rods. Why pay more?

im sticking with the stock rotating assembly just going to do the aluminum heads and a big cam with an eddy rpm

i need some more torque to move this big truck and the 360 is only getting me a 13.8 id like to move that down to a 12.8

Is there some reason your going 383 vs 440? Or at least 400?? The 383 while they can run good have some real disadvantages... Like the fact it's hard to get a decent C/R piston...

The stealth heads I got were really nice castings.
The springs and retainers are good for a decent sized hydraulic cam, but may need to be changed if using a large cam. The only item to note with the heads, is to use a large bore head gasket.
Their timming chain sets are nice too.

My machine shop re-ballanced one of their stroker kits, but I did not get the details why they did it?
I will pay closer attention to ballancing issues on the other kit I have.

I did get a timing chain oil slinger, and the crank hole was too small to fit over the crank snout. Their windage trays are designed to clear a 4.5" stroker crank, so they are too large (deep) to fit inside a stock style oil pan.
The aluminum rear oil seal retainer was slightly shorter than my oil pan rails, not a problem and maybe the same height as the stock seal retainer? I did not check the height of the stock one for comparison?
The ARP oil pump bolt kit for the HV oil pump are too long and bottom out before clamping the oil pump to the block. I few minutes with the grinder fixed that problem.
440 source customer service was good, and I would buy from them again. Those new cast valve covers look nice

I believe they fixed the chamber problem.Mine were one of the first sets.I used FelPro marine head gaskets and they fit perfect.Been on 2 years and no problems.I did have mine upgraded to Comp springs retainers and keepers for the big solid cam I run.That and they back cut the valves cleaned them up a bit and lapped the valves.That would have been done on any head except maybe a full ported set.Have them checked before you install them.Its cheap insurance.Rocky

check the water passages in the alum wp housing

just read a post on that,the passages are smaller and was causing an heat problem

only what I read though,but worth checking

well i found a 383/727 out of a 67 new yorker for $300 and the same combo out of a 68 satellite for $350. ive only seen a handfull of 440's locally and they go for at least double and im not a big fan of the 400

i didnt realise the 383 wasnt a good motor to build? i looked up a 67 383 and it listed it as 280hp/400 ftlb 10:1 CR i figured heads cam intake and headers would easily get that in the 400hp neighborhood

maybe ill just hold out for a deal on a 440

Their prices are low for a reason!

im new to the big block thing. so any help would be....helpful

The stealth heads should be CNC ported and with Modern right down the street from you that would be the place to go!!!

i dont have THAT kind of money

We tend to poo poo the stock displacements because strokers are all the rage (And yes I want a 500" 400B engine too!) But really, a 425hp 383 is easy and affordable with the Stealth heads and a really good cam and valvetrain.

Since you live in Clinton Twp you should be able to stop by Mancini Racing and talk to the guys there. They'll have books on big block motors that you can buy as well as a large selection of parts. The stealth heads are a good choice as long as you properly match the valve springs to the camshaft that you'll be using. A Performer RPM intake would be a good choice as well a good set of headers.

Any book you would recommend in particular, Andy? Maybe one that was recently published?

Ahh c'mon 383's aren't bad builds. 425 is not that hard. The key like anything is compression. Just get some closed chamber heads and you'll be fine. If you have a 67 engine you probably allready have them. The 915's are the most desireable while the 516's can make adequate power for 400+ HP.

My lowly 383 is runing at 9.2:1 with reworked 516's and a .474 cam with the dreaded kb162's. It dynod at 400/430 hp/tq and has very good street manners. With 3.91 gears and 2600 stall it has got a few 440 notches in her belt.

Get some worked on closed chamber heads, if you gotta use KB pistons I would use the KB400's, a decent cam in the 230/240 @ 0.050" range, RPM intake, 650 Dp or better carb, 3.55 or better gears, headers, and go have some fun. If it works and you want more you can allways stroke it later. The same works for a 400 too.

If the guy allready has a 383 then let him build what he has. WHY does every answer gotta be go buy something else...

I just got Andy's book this week after a six month wait.

I like it alot.

Gonna build big Mopar? Get bothe Senatore's and Andy's books.

More reading..
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=0#Post5442564

thanks for the responses guys.. but to clear a few things up

1)i dont have an engine yet so 383vs400vs440 comments are welcome!

2)just because im putting it into a truck doesnt mean im towing

3)this is my hot rod and im shooting for high 12's

as it sits right now with an unported iron headed 360 it knocked down a 13.8

FWIW your in an area with allot of sharp engine guys, you've already been given some good advise.. Think about the combination & your budget before you commit to a plan... I hate seeing the guys that spend allot of money but their stuff doesn't run strong...Mostly keep it fun...

Something to note going from a 360 to 383... You are adding about 80lbs depending on the components. The 360 is a 3.58 stroke and 4.00 bore. The 383 is a 3.37 stroke and 4.25 bore. IMO, you are making a lateral move at best... With that truck's mass, you want as much stroke as you can get. If it were me, I'd invest in gears or parts for the 360 to go faster, or get your hands on a 440 and brake booster so you can bolt it in.

im running 4.10 gears and a 4 speed. the 360 is in need of a refresh and i figured if im going to rebuild i might as well go bigger and sell the small block stuff

If you go with aftermarket heads, Stealth or otherwise, make sure you take them to someone who can check do a valvejob, check stem heights and in general clean the heads up before you use them so budget for that as well. $200 to $500. If your not going to do that have a valve job done on the stick heads.


Ken