Challengers should have a cardboard sail panel behind the headliner. It goes on like this and is held with spring clips. You can also see where the dome light wiring enters & exits the C pillar, along with a little remaining roof insulation up top.

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You can see one of the spring clips pretty good in this picture of the other side.

The round hole in the cardboard is where the coat hook is supposed to go. One on each side of the car.

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This shows the routing for the dome light wiring. The dome light bulb enters the dome light housing from the front of the car. The dome light housing attaches to the roof beam with 2 screws in the 2 forward holes of the roof beam. The rear holes of the roof beam are not used.

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Here's a close up of where the clips for the dome light wiring go on the C pillar.

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This is the driver side molding that goes over the edge of the headliner. You can see that it was originally green, but a previous owner had painted it black. This shows the location of the clips that hold this molding in place. I slid the clips off to restore the molding, and will use this picture to put them back on in the correct spot when I'm done.

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This is the passenger side molding that goes over the edge of the headliner. You can see that it was originally green, but a previous owner had painted it black. This shows the location of the clips that hold this molding in place. I slid the clips off to restore the molding, and will use this picture to put them back on in the correct spot when I'm done.

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As you can see, all of the metal trim around my headliner was once green, but someone had painted it black.

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My rear panels and door panels were originally green also. I'm not sure about the kick panels as they were missing. (Were kick panels available in green?)

Someone had painted my rear panels black, and I cleaned them up and recoated them. Only 1 green door panel came with the car, so I swapped in 2 black panels.

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Here's some disassembly pictures of the AC box.

This first one shows the metal strap that holds the box installed with the round end up and the square end down.

You can see some of the cowl insulation there too. The factory glues that stuff on, just like on the roof.

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Here it is fresh out of the car. First time out as far as I could tell. (lots of crud inside) you can see where the fiberglass insulation was glued on. My drain is missing a chunk.

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This AC box uses the square ended studs with screws to hold the two halves together.

Not all AC boxes are that way. Some have pointy studs, and some use big spring clips to hold the halves together. Of the ones that use spring clips, some are marked like the boxes with screws, and some have a completely smooth lip. Maybe I'll go into this more in depth later if anyone is interested.

As you can see in the background, my dash frame was originally green like the rest of the interior and not black.

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Blower motor resistor. Take it out and have a look. As long as the wire isn't corroded or broken anywhere, it's just fine. Usually there's nothing wrong with them.

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It's hard to see, but theirs a spring here that helps this door to function. This is a common problem area on the boxes I've seen. The spring could be missing, or bent, or the box is damaged around the spring hole so that it doesn't function properly.

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Now for some pics of the vacuum pods & hoses. The hoses are color coded, here's where they should go.

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More hoses...

I know T/As weren't available with air conditioning, but living in Florida, I just don't want to get rid of the air conditioning, especially if I'm going to have a black leather interior. Follow along to see how I do it.

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more hoses...

I like modern conveniences like air conditioning. Another thing I plan to add to the car that wasn't available on T/As is cruise control (automatic speed control). I'm going to install it factory style with original parts. In fact, I really like options and plan on adding a lot of them to this car.

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Here's how this vacuum pod is supposed to go...

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Here's how this door is supposed to go inside the box. Wouldn't want to put it on backwards, that wouldn't work right.

I'm looking forward to getting a full AC box gasket set from Jim at Detroit Muscle Technologies so that I can finish up this AC box.

It's important to note that in order to avoid extreme difficulty, it's easiest by far to install the AC or heater box before the Dash, and install the Dash before the windshield.

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Back to the car,

This pic shows the lower shock bolt was installed from the front toward the rear with the nut on the back. (I took the shock out of the way so you could see it better. )

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This is the bodyman I hired taking a break in his denim jacket.

You can also see one of the shipping brackets still attached to the rear frame rail. They are mirror images of each other, and this one was on this (passenger) side of the car.

Each car used two of these brackets (one on each rear frame rail) to tie it down to the semi for delivery to the dealership from the factory. The correct finish is bare metal. The dealership was supposed to remove them from the car before selling it, but this didn't always happen. Both of mine were still on the car. I like the idea of having them just in case I ever break down and need to haul the car home on a trailer. It will provide a convenient (and factory correct) location for tying down the car.

I think these brackets may be available reproduction somewhere.

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