I'm in a perfect place right now for a Project guy i guess..73 Duster in bodywork mode but I have to think forward to a Motor, since my 318 is just..a mess..pushrods all bent..valves stuck..might as well 360 this one. Considered a 408 stroker kit.

I typically take my engines in bare block, crank, rod/pistons and Head castings. time i get it back with a bore and balance/build the short block and do the heads, Its like $1200.

I understand a Stroker kit with the parts I need runs about that, and I'm a little in the dark what the block needs done. Info on that would be cool.

Also whats the low down on heads? Honestly, It'd be a street car that "has some really nice power" but mostly a weekend cruiser with some here and there weekday driving.

I'd likely throw an LD340 on it and either a Reworked TQ or a 650 Eddy..I've only had TQ's for Four Barrels, always liked them.

Info on issues, prices, and experiences are appreciated.

The bottom of the bores might need slightly notched to clear the rods, depending on the type of rods you use.

You have to buy chamfered bearings for the crank and connecting rods.

My heads were fresh and had some porting done previously so is all the shop did was cc the chambers. I paid around $400 for hot tanking, inspection, boring, cam bearings, oil pump drive bushing and brass freeze plugs. I also sent the crank, rods and pistons off to be balanced as a whole. That was around $350-400. I then had to have the block decked to get a 10.1:1 compression ratio. I was told not to let the machine shop bore until they had the pistons in hand. The machine shop agreed with this. Different manufacturers have different specs. They will have to measure the piston height to determine the decking needed. I am running 64 CC 915 heads with mild porting and have the large valves in them. I have an air gap with a 750 Holley on it. It wanted more fuel than my 650 Carter could feed it. Mine went together just like a stock rebuild, I did not have to clearance the block for the rods. I have an Eagle crank, scat rods with KB pistons. I have tried several different carbs and found the well prepped 4150 to be the best so far. I have it in a 89 standard cab short box Dakota. 727 RMVB, 3800 stall with a CRT trans, 8 3/4 with 4:10's and a lock rite equipped rear. I drive it on the street but it is very loud. I have full length headers with 3" exhaust that dumps behind the cab. I ended up with about 6K or more into mine. It could have been less but I built it over a several month period and things kept changing.

Small notch needs to be taken out of the Block for the Rod Bolts other then that it's really nothing more then a .30 over bore. Crank and Pistons is really all that changes. Stock rods are fine. You can find kits everywhere just do a search on "Mopar Stroker" and you will find them.

5.9 vs 360 5.9 has Roller Cam if you want to do a Roller, I only know of 4 Shelf Roller Cams from MOPAR right now. If they don't meet your need then you can have your "Core" reground. You will need to replace the stock push rods if you do that since they will be short.

If you decide on 5.9 you have to make a few more decisions. 5.9's did not come with Mech Fuel pumps so the "Stock Roller Cam" does not have an eccentric to drive it. Also the 5.9 Timing Chain cover does not have provisions for one. This really isn't an issue since you can either get an adapter or 2 of the MOPAR Roller Cams have eccentrics. For the Timing Chain Cover the 360's will work.

Oil Pan on the 360's and 5.9's will exchange but finding one for a Car "Center Pump" in a junk yard is rare, 98% of these engines were in trucks and vans.

5.9 stock head's while not the best in the world do flow better then 360's only due to the newer design, but they have a tendency to crack between the valves. 5,9's use pedistal Rockers vice the Shaft Rockers. Just something else you need to consider There are alot of options for Replacement heads if you need them.

My post might help you too.
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=1#Post5425840

thanks for your replies and then that link.