|
A-Body LCA's Updated with PICS.....
#441852
08/18/09 09:02 AM
08/18/09 09:02 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609
Southern Cal
Noblewk
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609
Southern Cal
|
Last weekend I hit a pot hole hard, resulting damage was a rim and I'm suspecting a lower control arm since that tire now is 1.5" further back then the other. My question is "what year A-body LCA's will interchange or can I use a LCA from another Mopar?"
Last edited by Noblewk; 08/18/09 10:10 PM.
66 Dart GT, 402 11.18:109 Best
63 1/2 Galaxie 500XL 406 4Speed 13.20:103 Best
2000 Ram
2005 Durango Hemi.
|
|
|
Re: A-Body LCA's
[Re: Noblewk]
#441853
08/18/09 09:15 AM
08/18/09 09:15 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
|
Quote:
My question is "what year A-body LCA's will interchange
All interchangeable. EDIT there's 2 different sway bar tab locations
Last edited by RapidRobert; 08/18/09 09:20 AM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: A-Body LCA's
[Re: RapidRobert]
#441854
08/18/09 09:42 AM
08/18/09 09:42 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609
Southern Cal
Noblewk
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609
Southern Cal
|
Thanks at least that will make my hunting through the yards this weekend a little easier.
66 Dart GT, 402 11.18:109 Best
63 1/2 Galaxie 500XL 406 4Speed 13.20:103 Best
2000 Ram
2005 Durango Hemi.
|
|
|
Re: A-Body LCA's
[Re: Noblewk]
#441856
08/18/09 12:55 PM
08/18/09 12:55 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
|
Quote:
Last weekend I hit a pot hole hard, resulting damage was a rim and I'm suspecting a lower control arm since that tire now is 1.5" further back then the other. My question is "what year A-body LCA's will interchange or can I use a LCA from another Mopar?"
Take the rim off and look at what is going on. Compare to the other side. For 1.5" back, I'd think that is more than a bent LCA. It would almost have to be folded between the strut rod hole and the LBJ hole for 1.5" on just the LCA.
Maybe it smashed out a strut rod bushing, strut nut nut, K-member hole? Look at the area around the UCA bushings to frame.
|
|
|
Re: A-Body LCA's
[Re: Noblewk]
#441863
08/19/09 03:33 AM
08/19/09 03:33 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
|
Quote:
K-Frame Smashed in.....  
I bet that STOCK strut rods aren't bent. You hear everyone selling stronger tubular strut rods, UCA's, LCA's... In the picture above everything is bent BUT the strut rod.
If that UCA and LCA would not have bent, most likely something else on the unibody would have. Or cracked. Thing could be worse. I personally, would rather replace a UCA and LCA than a trip the frame shop. Your thoughts?
IMHO, fixing/replacing the bent UCA (most likely) in the car pictured above will be an easier fix than repairing the bent-in K-member to strut rod hole.
I'm surprised the rim isn't bent more. Almost looks like the tire didn't loose air? Maybe if the rim would have bent more some other parts would not have got bent.
|
|
|
Re: A-Body LCA's
[Re: autoxcuda]
#441864
08/19/09 08:39 AM
08/19/09 08:39 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609
Southern Cal
Noblewk
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609
Southern Cal
|
The rods do appear to be straight, I will know more this weekend when I get it apart and find the donor.. Replaceing the upper and lower is not a real big issue other then sourcing the parts. I will be hunting saturday or sunday at the local yards, 73's and above show up, but not as much as they use to. As for the strut hole, this will take a little more thought and effort..., I'm thinking maybe pounding it out or build a puller  that will pull it back into shape. I'm not positive but just getting the shape close should be good enough.  I would not think that this is a precision measurment. The tire did not lose any air, but there is some good cracks in the rubber. I'm not looking at changing the K-Frame out.
66 Dart GT, 402 11.18:109 Best
63 1/2 Galaxie 500XL 406 4Speed 13.20:103 Best
2000 Ram
2005 Durango Hemi.
|
|
|
Re: A-Body LCA's
[Re: Noblewk]
#441866
08/19/09 11:27 AM
08/19/09 11:27 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
|
Quote:
...
As for the strut hole, this will take a little more thought and effort..., I'm thinking maybe pounding it out or build a puller that will pull it back into shape. I'm not positive but just getting the shape close should be good enough. I would not think that this is a precision measurment.
The tire did not lose any air, but there is some good cracks in the rubber.
I'm not looking at changing the K-Frame out.
Not the prettiest idea, BUT.... you could measure how much the strut hole is pulled in, then cut the rear poly bushing and inner sleeve that same amount. So you could make up for how much the hole is bent in and then still get you alignment numbers. I bet it's not pulled back a ton. Inspect the extra plate the factory welded to the k-member at the hole there and compart to other side. See if there is a seperation. Could even add a bead of weld on both sides of the plate for good measure.
|
|
|
Re: A-Body LCA's
[Re: repad]
#441867
08/19/09 02:24 PM
08/19/09 02:24 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,615
Table Rock Lake Missouri
furious
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,615
Table Rock Lake Missouri
|
Quote:
That must have been one heck of a pothole! 
My thoughts as well.
The strut rod hole, was a weakness on those early a body cars. I have fixed a couple of them, in fact one on my Dad's 65 Barracuda was ripped clear out.
I welded a large, very thick washer, over the hole and it worked great. One similar to the one on a harmonic balancer bolt. I would say it is much stronger than the stock side.
|
|
|
Re: A-Body LCA's
[Re: Noblewk]
#441868
08/19/09 02:59 PM
08/19/09 02:59 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
68HemiB
master
|
master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
|
Quote:
I'm not looking at changing the K-Frame out.
My background [former alignment mechanic] admittedly skews my view of reality when compared to others, but I'm going to question your comment above. Why isn't changing out the K member on the table? Are you immediately eliminating this path because of the cost of another K member, the trouble finding a compatible one, or the perceived difficulty in changing this part?
If availability or cost of another K member is the issue, I'm in no position to argue.
However, if it's merely the perceived difficulty in changing one out, I suggest that you reconsider your position. You are going to have most of the stuff off of the K member already, assuming you pull the sway bar to get better access. The K member issues that should concern you are overall geometry, damage to the strut rod hole, and integrity of the mounting tube for the LCA pivot shaft. A replacement K member resolves all three of these issues.
Of course it's your car and wallet. Nevertheless, consider the time you will spend pounding, pulling, cussing, and second thoughts about your final product when compared to
a floor jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan
a couple of motor mount bolts
an idler arm
a steering coupler and some steering box bolts
If your skill set includes enough wherewithal to swap a lower control arm in a T-bar suspension, none of the above should prove any challenge whatsoever.
Down to just a blue car now.
|
|
|
Re: A-Body LCA's
[Re: 68HemiB]
#441870
08/19/09 09:31 PM
08/19/09 09:31 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609
Southern Cal
Noblewk
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,609
Southern Cal
|
Quote:
Quote:
I'm not looking at changing the K-Frame out.
My background [former alignment mechanic] admittedly skews my view of reality when compared to others, but I'm going to question your comment above. Why isn't changing out the K member on the table? Are you immediately eliminating this path because of the cost of another K member, the trouble finding a compatible one, or the perceived difficulty in changing this part?
If availability or cost of another K member is the issue, I'm in no position to argue.
However, if it's merely the perceived difficulty in changing one out, I suggest that you reconsider your position. You are going to have most of the stuff off of the K member already, assuming you pull the sway bar to get better access. The K member issues that should concern you are overall geometry, damage to the strut rod hole, and integrity of the mounting tube for the LCA pivot shaft. A replacement K member resolves all three of these issues.
Of course it's your car and wallet. Nevertheless, consider the time you will spend pounding, pulling, cussing, and second thoughts about your final product when compared to
a floor jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan
a couple of motor mount bolts
an idler arm
a steering coupler and some steering box bolts
If your skill set includes enough wherewithal to swap a lower control arm in a T-bar suspension, none of the above should prove any challenge whatsoever.
Maybe I should restate that. I know it may be an option but it isn't on the table right now. 
1st I know that I have at least 3 maybe 4 suspension parts that need to be replaced. Lower, Upper, Rim and maybe a strut. These need to be sourced and put on before even an "former Alignment mech" can tell me that the K-Frame is out of wack. If the Frame is out of wack, then I have a "Winter Project" and need to call Bill Rielly @ Reilly Motor Sports for a "Alterktion". But I'm pretty sure that my "Experienced Alignment Tech" will get me on the road until winter. I might ware out a tire "Doubt it" since it is just a week end beater.... 
66 Dart GT, 402 11.18:109 Best
63 1/2 Galaxie 500XL 406 4Speed 13.20:103 Best
2000 Ram
2005 Durango Hemi.
|
|
|
|
|
Must be how San Diego County is keeping "Alignment Techs In Business".. 
