Re: horse power #s
[Re: mayhem148]
#436281
08/13/09 01:38 AM
08/13/09 01:38 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,279
bcrproducts
super gas
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super gas
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,279
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Maybe some of my cap and girdle customers will chime in. I know of several over 900 hp motors that have two seasons on them and quite a few dozen in the 800 hp range and hundreds using my caps alone in the 600-700 range. That being said it all depends on what you start with as far as a block . Get it magged and sonic tested and a fill will only help. There is no magic # and if one can afford an aftermarket block in the 700hp plus range he should, but if he can't we have the options. Greg www.bcrproducts.com
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Re: horse power #s
[Re: mayhem148]
#436283
08/13/09 02:29 AM
08/13/09 02:29 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,195 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,195
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
what kinda horsepower can a 400 block hold up to max. race and street. if it was a all out race motor it would run a few trips down the strip every other weekend. if it goes on the street. it will be driven every other weekend. just curious. it will have forced induction and will have aluminum caps with girdle.
My 1976 400 block 518 C.I. N/A motor makes 720 hp on pump gas, 10:29 to 1 comp. ratio. I replaced the main caps with a set of the Mopar brand ductile iron main caps, no fill, all water jackets stock 4 years of racing, 300 to 400 passes total, mostly 1/8 mile, and around 1500 street miles. The car weighs 3400 lbs with me in it and has run a best of 10:34 at 128.6 MPH running out of fuel the last 300 ft. in the 1/4 I didn't have a big enough fuel system for the motor I do now, back to the 1/4 mile track for more tuning BTW, I don't like the designs of the aftermarket girdles that I have seen for BB Mopars and I don't like filler in the cylinder blocks To each thier own BTW, how much boost and how big is the motor going to be?
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: horse power #s
[Re: mayhem148]
#436284
08/13/09 02:33 AM
08/13/09 02:33 AM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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I have a '71 400 "B" with the BCR mains and girdle. This is for a 500" stroker build (4.15" stroke, 6.76" rod.) From what I've been told this is a really good compromise of good cubes, light weight rotating assembly, and good rod ratio. It also fits in the block easely. the bottom of the bores did not even need to be notched, just a small bit of the oil pickup boss needed trimmed to fit the rotation assembly. I think the real area of concern with the stock blocks is the stock oiling system. The lifter bores intersecting the main oil galley, and the #4 main/cam feeding oil to the rocker arms are the big issues if the engine will be turning high RPM. The stock block does not have alot of material to support lifter bushings, not the mention the bushings will reduce the size of the main oil feed galley. I think if you are making less than 700 HP the stock block is a decent choice, and more than 800 HP I believe your better using the aftermarket block. It seems that between 700 and 800 HP it may depend on how much you want to spend modifying the stock block compared to just getting the new block. Also, the new blocks can be built with the 4.5"+ bore size and have room for larger stroker cranks.
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Re: horse power #s
[Re: mayhem148]
#436286
08/13/09 07:09 AM
08/13/09 07:09 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675 Columbia, CT
moper
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675
Columbia, CT
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Something to keep in mind too... by the time you've bought the parts and prepped the block for that level (above 600-700), you have a significant amount of cash in it. Clean, mag, sonic test, fit caps and girdle, align bore/hone, modify the oil passages, lifter bushing, bore, plate hone, and square deck... It's close to $4K for all that for me and that is what I believe you need to do to make reliable HP in this package. And, the block's maxxed out. How much is a new better one compared to that level? With a budget of $9-10K (or more qwith a blower), having a rebuildable engine with room to grow is worth 1 or two thousand more IMO. Nevermind the overall more power produced at the crank because the bores stay straighter and the block doesnt move around.
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
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Re: horse power #s
[Re: mayhem148]
#436287
08/13/09 01:05 PM
08/13/09 01:05 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,195 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,195
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
i havent figured the amount of boost just yet. no hurry on this build. but i am building with the parts that i have around my shop. so after market block is out of the question. im tryin to find a safe number for HP to aim for is all. forged steel 440 crank. may use H-beams might use 6 pack. this is a budget build. i still havent decided if im goin with turbo or supercharged.
Do not use six pak rods Buy a decent set of longer aftermarket H or I beam rods no matter what the HP goals are as long as ithe HP will be above 600 HP. As already said if you want to build a motor that will be run with boost do not use a stock block, B or RB, the reason being some boost is good, more boost is better I have built a lot of Mopar engines in the last 20 years, I own a new world block along with some B1 heads, if your going to make serious HP you will blow up the stock blocks, I have seen many RB blocks with cracked main webs , those motors where making less than 700 HP at the time on gasoline N/A I have one 440 block motor that I spent a lot money on before the World blocks came out that I wish now that I hadn't, 527 C.I. Sr heads M.W ports,custom ground solid roller cam and so on, it has made 870 HP so far on the local engine dyno before it broke a pushrod in the middle That broke the Crower solid roller lifter top off and gauged the cam and lifter bushing I have it back together enough to remove the oil pan and system to inspect the main webs, I hope there okay If they are I plan on removing that crankshaft rotating assembly and heads and replace them with a pump gas combination I will use those parts in a good block , probally another World block If your in no hurry and don't want to have to do this engine build twice either build it for around 600 HP with no boost or wait until you can sell the parts you have and use that money to buy a new race block while there still availble
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: horse power #s
[Re: mayhem148]
#436289
08/13/09 01:43 PM
08/13/09 01:43 PM
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,949 land of 10,000______'s
BDS871Cuda
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,949
land of 10,000______'s
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Quote:
what kinda horsepower can a 400 block hold up to max. race and street. if it was a all out race motor it would run a few trips down the strip every other weekend. if it goes on the street. it will be driven every other weekend. just curious. it will have forced induction and will have aluminum caps with girdle.
Look up Josh King, I think if I read it right, he is useing a 400 block with the BCR girdle. I think it was going to be street/strip with B-1 heads on top a 493 give or take a few inches. Turbocharged pumping E-85 through a 1050 Dom. The cam was BIG but I don't remember the #'s. Am I missing anything? I think his combo will put a 400 block to the test, even with low boost.
Does that sound right, Josh?
Snap your neck, mega G-force launch, is all I want!
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