Please fill me in on the installation & usage of a wide-band oxygen sensor. It's all new stuff to me, but I'm considering something like that to help really dial in my carb for street & track.

YEH,me too.

Hello mates,

there´s some interesting tuning and installing videos in the Innovate Motorsports website that should help you on this issue!


Follows the link:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/tuning-videos.php


BR,
Fernando

Im a big fan of a good O2 set up.

Some will complain its 3-400 dollars. I say its still cheaper than 2 weekends at the track trying to tune the carb.

I got one a few years ago for my /6 dart. I had put in a new motor with a mystery cam and some head work and I was tuning my car from scratch for the first time (only built bikes and worked on stock setups before) I was working on my first holley and only had books etc. to help me along.

I got the innovate lambda cable with the fancy gauge with the led's around the edge. I never did get the right combo of cables to hook up my laptop, and the button that was supposed to remember the highest and lowest values from a given run never seemed to work right.

Having said that, the a/f meter was invaluable for tuning my holley, especially for an inexperienced tuner. It was easy to get the car to run, but getting good power and economy was a challenge and the meter really lets you know where your fuel delivery compromises are- is it bogging on the top end, or starving? is the pump shot right? does it cruise at 12.5:1 or at 15:1? Is that hesitation a jetting problem or should I look for another problem?

I would recommend one for any novice tuner or for any radical setup that could eat itself if it is not right.

Good luck!

radar

I had one in my challenger and I got one for my dart also..... I had the autometer phantom ones... I love em.... Rule of thumb I was told is 14.5 at idle and 12.5 at wOT is ideal... also so you dont ruin your sensor place like pic below cause of condensation!

I have two systems, FAST with dual sensors and the RPM option and a Innovate LM1 with the RPM and LC1 option which converts the LM1 from a single wide ban to a dual sensor. The FAST had one side failed within ten minutes of using it on a engine dyno test FAST repaired it under warrentee and now the RPM feature doesn'r record The FAST system has memory for one recording session and no provisions to store and tranfer that data to any other device. The good news is the Innovate LM1 failed after a lot of use and it was repaired under warrentee and it still works well That system will store multiple sessions as well as let you hook up a laptop and view the session in real time or store the session in the LM1 and transfer that information to the laptop later. The bad thing about the LM1 is that it is a single sensor system, but they do now sell it as a dual wide ban systemm or you can buy the LC1 add on to convert the LM1 to a dual wide ban system I have not hooked up the LC1 into the LM1 yet so I can't offer any experiences with it yet, the LM1 also has room to add up to five sensors for oil temp or any other option you may want When it comes to tuning the AFR I don't think that there is a perfect ratio for all combinations, I use it to learn from, I lean it( part throtttle cruise, idle and WOT individually)) down until it starts to ping and then fatten it up to stop the pinging or surging at part throttle. The weather and fuel, winter mix versus summer mix, out here makes a difference, the fuel will make the car run differenent and read different Ultimately, for racing, the time slip is the final input on my tuning set up on the carb and timing There are other systems availble now that I have no expereinces with so don't be afraid to try them unless you want to go with a proven system

I quite like the look of this:
http://www.gtechpro.com/egs.html

I'll keep this, I'm installing one within the month.Thanks

I have the one made by Autometer. It is GREAT! It will save you alot of time and headaches getting your jetting correct. I don't worry about the idle setting since my car is strip only. My Duster likes 12.8 to 13.0 at WOT.

Raul

The installation on your car is pretty straight forward since you have full exhaust system. Keep it above the horizontal and at least 18" from the tail pipe. Open headers have their own challenges.

It really helps to quickly get the mixture close. But don't bet on any specific number for the best ET. Combine the detailed info of the wide band (vs time and rpm) with the time slip for fine tuning. But it really does give solid data to make decisions by and see effects of changes.

For a street car it really gives lots of info for idle, part throttle, etc. Worth every penny if you want to fine tune things, IMO. And for street driving at part throttle, a display in the car would be helpful, the screen on the LM-1 is a little hard to read while driving.

I've got an innovate LC-1 with an analog in-car gauge for my ride. Just welded in the o2 bung in the collector yesterday so I have not gotten to try it out yet.

I've got the LM-1 and the analog gauge in my Coronet. IMO the analog gauge is well worth the $ for racing. That way, just like any other gauge, you can very quickly look at it and know if you're safe, set tape marks on it, etc. For me, seeing a digital readout of a # and trying to think about whether that's ok or not while watching the other gauges, shifting, watching the other guy, etc, is too much to do.
My analog gauge reads 1 full point lean compared to the LM unit however. This is a common problem listed in their FAQ, they say it's grounding related. I've tried all sorts of things and not gotten it fixed. Not a huge deal, just set the tape marks in a different place and make sure it stays between them.

i just looked at the INOVATIVE web site and they dont list the LM-1 in their product page,is it still available or is the lm -2 a replacemet?