You didn't give all your cam specs. What's the duration @ .050",
Lobe separation and where is it installed?

Unless you have fuel delivery problems or really low float settings,
my guess is, a combination of cylinder head and small exhaust
is currently keeping you from running 10s.

11.17 is pretty quick for 117.55 MPH especially, since you have
mediocre 60 fts.

There is something definitely choking off the power on the top.

Sorry
I have the reg tti for the eddies and the 1-7/8 for indys
INTAKE

Opens: 21.0 BTDC
Closes: 49.0 ABDC


EXHAUST

Opens: 59.0 BBDC
Closes: 15.0 ATDC


LOBE SEPERATION

108º


Duration at .050"

Intake: 250
Exhaust: 254


LOBE LIFT

Intake: .363
Exhaust: .372

I think, as others have mentioned, a cam swap might be in order, among other things. Everything has to be right and matched to get them to run how they are capable of.

My old 416 combo was a 260/266 flat tappet, 560/580 lift that i ran 1.6 rockers on(made it 598/623)it was on a 108, in at 104. Weiand excellerator, mildly ported eddies(maxed at 274 at 600 lift) TTI 1 5/8 step to 1 3/4 headers

8 inch convertor that flashed about 4900-5000, 28 inch tire with 4.30 gears(they were too steep, would have liked 4.10 like you have better)had a 1025 race demon, that was a great carb for that combo, this all was in a 3400+ pound car with full interor and bench seat, column shift at 11.8 compression.

car went 10.74 at 123.70, through the mufflers so at 3150 pounds, it should be extremely easy to get in the 10's with a combo similar to the above, even if the heads are just mildly cleaned up.


The above all said, there is no way i would lean on the combo you have with those eagle I beam rods amd that cast crank for any extended period of time and not expect you arent going to drive over the bottom end at some point in the very near future.


So, i would step up the cam to something with 600 corrected lift and 260 ish on the intake, consider going to a 950 ish carb and perhaps more convertor, after you fortify the bottom end to handle the expected power you are going to have on tap.....

I took that bottom end on my 416 above( h beams and cast crank and threw w5's on it) and changed nothing except headers and intake and went 10.30's with that swap,and proceeded to drive over the crank and ruin the shortblock, so your indy's should net you a similar gain if you have everything corect with the eddies you are currenty using and make that swap.

Strokers like cam and carb, you are lacking on both currently, as well as having a solid shortblock foundation to build from.I might leave it as is until you get a good shortblock under it.

Good luck

I was afraid I was going to hear that about the rods/crank.I guess I will leave the Indy heads for a diff motor and leave this motor alone.I could try the bigger carb and see if I pick up on top.I dont want to scatter this thing on the track.

First off your mph seems a bit low for 11-teens secondly, I know a gentleman running low 9`s w/a cast cank and I`m sure he`s not the only one. Why not do the heads AND cam at the same time then you are there for sure.....I picked up 5/tenths by going to a roller and e-heads.

The eddie heads ar stock ootb just a mild clean up on the ports by me.I think crank should be good but the rods I am afraid of.

I hear ya but it`s kinda like the old saying "your 8 3/4 will never live at your power level"....guess I like livin on the edge; and so does my 8 3/4.

So I gues what you guys are saying is that the motor could make more power but I should keep it where it is now so it can live.Knowing my luck the first pass with the new heads would not be good.I might try the bigger carb just for giggles.
I have a new X block any ideas for a new motor?

Do you have any plans to do anything with your current engine?

Eagle SIR

I might change the carb for fun but then just run it while I come up with the $$$$ for a new short block.I do drive this sucker on the street.
Whats with the pic?

Scat Pro I-beams

Quote:

---

Whats with the pic?

---

You guys are a little antsy.........Pictures were supposed to be
consecutive to show how close the weights are to the much
better 4340 Scat 7/16" bolts.

Dial-up.

SIR” I-Beam Connecting Rods

Eagle “SIR” connecting rods are forged from 5140 steel and utilize ARP 3/8” capscrew-style bolts with alignment sleeves for easier assembly. Packaged in weight-matched sets (+/- 2g). Sizing is performed by in-house CNC equipment. “SIR” rods are the perfect choice for engines UP TO 500 HP.

Mine made fine for five years with no issues, they're still in the 340. Ross flat tops, turned it 6200-6500 over 300 passes. I'm just lucky I guess . The new 408 has Comp Star H-beams in it though.

I have some SIR rods in the motor I built for my Mom's Duster. This was before I heard all the horror stories. That motor doesn't make all that much power since I was told by her that she didn't want it to be to fast that she had to wear a fire jacket or put a roll bar in the car. Was shooting for 7.70's in the 1/8th and wound up with a [Email]7.39@91[/Email] so far in great air. She only turns it to 5500rpm and motor has been together for two seasons now. I wish I had put the Scat's in it, shoot I wish I had known about the Scat's beforehand.

Mine obviously lived for the time I used them. I guess it's possible the broken
SIRs I've seen were just bad heat lot flukes but, I took them out at the end of
the year.........after seeing several posts on the subject.

I ran Ross 99626 domes (567 grams) 7400 RPM every shift and the occasional
8000 limiter burnout.........so they can't be complete junk. Just didn't care to
test what others had already found out.

Personally, I'd never use them again.......even in somebody else's engine.