Quote:

---

I have a 67 BelvedereII with a 440-a833. The guy that put it together was obviously making it a drag car since it has .820" torsion bars, 6 left/7 right spring packs and a plastic summit fuel cell. Other than that the suspension is stock. Since our track is closed for the foreseeable future I want to make it a cone killer (autocross). I need a bit of guidance to get there though.

Here's my plan so far:
Torsion Bars: FFI 1.12" (in the mail now)

That's an aggressive T-bar. Will make a stout handler. It will be stiff, be prepared for that. Get some subframe connectors

Upper Arms: probably CAP since theirs have adjustable spherical rod ends for just $315. (the Hotchkis ones would awesome but not for $700)

I wouldn't go with CAP UCA's. The welds just don't look that great on them. There's been some customer issues. They don't have a support web between the legs. Go with FFI or Bill Reiley.

In defense of the Hotchkis UCA's they are more than just a UCA, they relocated the geometry to greatly reduce bump steer from the great amount of anti dive designed into this multi-use chassis. Now, they don't eliminate the anti dive the just reduce it and by doing than reduces a bunch of bump steer. More benefit not buying tubular LCA's and using the money for Hotchkis UCA bump steer reduction system

Lower Arms: CAP tubulars w/ FFI greasable pivot pins

Don't. Just Don't. The factory ones are fine. They are stout. They carry the whole load of the front weight of the car. You have big T-bars that are going to get harsher impact loads, etc. Tubulars are fine for a drag racer trying to reduce weight. Save you money for better stuff.

Add some 1" strap to stiffen then up and clamp the rear adjuster talked about here: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post5390117 That is simple cheap and affective

FFI nylon greasable LCA pins are cool though


Strut Rods: CAP Dynamics; FFI and MRE both have really nice ones but the CAP and Hotchkis ones eliminate the need for bushings. CAP's are $100 cheaper...

MRE or Hotchkis for the sperical front joint. You will be able to get the aligmnent numbers without adjustable strut rods because of well designeed Tubular UCA's. OR Moog 7103 offset bushings in stock UCA's.

Sway Bars: Need input here. There are so many different ways to go.

See my other post: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post5391664


Shocks: Same with the sway bars... need input

QA1 or Koni to match the level of build on the other parts you want. Use the money saved from the tubular LCA's. It's better spent on shocks. If you still can't afford them dump the adjustble strut rods and use that money.


Bushings: probably the rebuild kit from FFI unless anyone knows of a better kit

FFI has it's own LCA nylon bushing. Everything else is all Energy stuff anyways.


Leaf Springs: there is so much out there for drag racing, what about for handling?

I'd go the route Clair Davis did and just get stock HD leafs or Hotchkis. If you overspring the rear end won't plant coming off corners. You can adjust rear stiffness with the adjustable rear sway bar

There are a few things to fix in the process too. My back tires are 255s and rub the fenders when I turn.

Fit the widest tires you can. All is for not if you can't get grip. Follow Lefty's recommendations for tire and wheels

I need to move the engine forward to get clearance from the center link. To do that I need a thinner electric fan or a flex fan. (right now I have 1/4" between fan and water pump. The fan is 3.5" thick.)

Is that for a Milodon oil pan you are running?

Tell me what you think.

---

Quote:

---

Autoxcuda you rock dude!

For subframes, which is best?: The new floor pan hugging style like XV's, the square tube Hotchkis weld in style, or the bolt in round tube guys. If I do the MP spring relocation, will that screw things up?

Floor pan hugging by US Car Tool or Hotchkis'. The Hotchkis' sit a little low, IMHO.

I knew there had to be something special about the hotchkis UCA's. I'll have to figure out how to afford them. For the LCA's, what about those weld on stiffening plates that MRE and FFI sells?

For the strut rods, what about the FFI ones compared to the MRE ones. If I can figure out how to afford the Hotchkis UCAs then I should be able to work out the matching strut rods. Stay away from the CAP ones though?

The MRE ones has a sperical rod end at the front. Or the offer a version of that. Lefty runs those. If you can't figure out how to afford them, don't bother. Run $40 Moog 7103 Offset upper control arm bushings in your stock UCA's. And run poly strut bushings in your stock strut rods. That's all I run

For sway bars, you sold me on the Hellwig/Hotchkis bars.

Shocks: So shocks, like UCA's, is a place where I'll want to spend some $. How about Bilstiens? Are the QA1's & Koni's the top notch here?

Any of those should be good. The QA1's (single or double adjustable) and Konis are adjustable. The QA1's you don't have to take them off to adjust. Just turn the knob while it's on the car. See Lefty's picture in the other sway bar thread.

Do you think my 6/7 spring packs are sufficient? Its sounding the shocks are your money makers for the rear suspension.

Run whatcha brung. Be careful not to buy happy, run out of money and the car will just sit.

Maybe new shocks and a rear sway bar will fix my tire rubbing issue. Do you think the MP spring relocation is worth it here? I wasn't planning on minitubbing.

Ask Lefty about 66/67 B-body tire clearance.

Yeah its the same Milodon pan(31580) I'm still trying to figure this out. I got those FFI fast ratio arms but the pitman was the large sector and the idler hit the pan anyway, so I sent them back for the torsion bars. That will bring up a whole new set of questions... steering.

Again, you rock Bro!

---

Quote:

---

Modifying the pan is in the plans but its going to take some research as far as who can do it here on island. I don't have that skill set. Its got internal baffling and trap doors that will make it more complicated than simple cut and paste. And I'll have shorten the pckup. On top of that, I just had shoulder surgery so I won't be wrenching or driving for at least a few weeks.

---

Quote:

---

I'm going to see Milodon tommorrow morning at a cruise. If I remember I'll mention the pan to him.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I'm going to see Milodon tommorrow morning at a cruise. If I remember I'll mention the pan to him.

---

That would be cool. I talked to someone over there last Monday. He refered me to Hensley Performance and Bob Mazzolini, saying they make a center link with more clearance. When I called, of course, it was news to them as well. Bob and I talked extensively about it. We covered shimming, different fans, fast ratio arms and our best solution was to ditch the Milodon for a 6qt street hemi pan. This pan is fantastic, I mean that, but with the amount of clearance that I need I don't see how it could ever fit without modification.

---

Quote:

---

Are the Edelbrock IAS shocks on par with the QA1, Koni an Billstein versions?

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I'm going to see Milodon tommorrow morning at a cruise. If I remember I'll mention the pan to him.

---

That would be cool. I talked to someone over there last Monday. He refered me to Hensley Performance and Bob Mazzolini, saying they make a center link with more clearance. When I called, of course, it was news to them as well. Bob and I talked extensively about it. We covered shimming, different fans, fast ratio arms and our best solution was to ditch the Milodon for a 6qt street hemi pan. This pan is fantastic, I mean that, but with the amount of clearance that I need I don't see how it could ever fit without modification.

---

A simple baffle will do wonders. The 6 qt hemi pan has front and rear baffles but then add a ledge on the sides.

Will that 6qt street hemi pan will fit your 67. I thought the repro pans did have the idler notch.

I though the MP 6qt hemi pan was N/A right now. But Milodon makes one. But I know that one doesn't have the notch.

---

I looks like the "HEMI" pan Mazzolini sells has idler notches and is like a 187 pan but deeper http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/oilpans.html

IMHO, you need a 187 type pan.

Quote:

---

A simple baffle will do wonders. The 6 qt hemi pan has front and rear baffles but then add a ledge on the sides.

Will that 6qt street hemi pan will fit your 67. I thought the repro pans did have the idler notch.

I though the MP 6qt hemi pan was N/A right now. But Milodon makes one. But I know that one doesn't have the notch.

---

Quote:

---

Autoxcuda, how was the cruise?

---

Quote:

---

Do you think my 6/7 spring packs are sufficient? Its sounding the shocks are your money makers for the rear suspension.

---