Dang it man! I've got to go in again 1st thing tomorrow morning. '68 B-Body, 727 trans. Last time, I sprayed the gasket with Copper spray-a-gasket, torqued it correctly, and it's been leaking ever since. I checked the pan for dimples with a straight edge and it was perfect, clean mating surface too.
Currently it appears that fluid is coming out through the gasket seal.... I'm using an ATP parts store gasket;
equivalent or better than an OEM gasket.

Soooo... should I install the new gsaket dry? Any other sealant I should be using? Do they really get torqued THAT lightly? (150 inch-Lbs)

Hit the Dodge house and get the new reusable sandwich style gasket. You can't over tighten it

Tranny gaskets, I generaly spray glue to the pan lip with 3M spray adhesive Super 77 and apply to the pan side, so it dosen't slip out of location, and leave the gasket to tranny case side dry,.....make sure the pan lip is flat, and free from defects, lumps, dents, etc hammer/dolly lightly as needed,.....and I usually hand tighten in a X pattern all the bolts to the point of NEARLY drawing the flange in, nothing more! you go just that little too much,..... and presto, LEAKS!,....forget the torque wrench, use "feel" and your eyes to tighten the bolts


Mike

I always knock the holes flat with a hammer on the anvil.
I use the cork gasket that comes with a Wix filter.
I always put them on dry, no matter kind of glue or sealer I tried to use the gasket would slip out when I tightened the screws. Mine have been dry for years and don't leak. Now an aluminum pan is a whole nuther story!!!

ANOTHER vote furr an cast alum pan. What do you mean .. torqued correctly ?

I myself have never used anything but a cheapo cork gasket .. no problemo.

OVERtorqueing is a major issue in causing problems with leaking pans.

Pan leaks that don't stop after repeated gasket changes might not be coming from the pan gasket itself but from a leak above that runs down to the protruding gasket before dripping off.

Thanks for all the tips guys! I re-did it this morning and... success!! I surfaced the pan using a big hard rubber block and 220 grit. I tell Ya: once you make a couple of light passes over the pan mating surface to show you what's high and what's not, it's amazing that it even held in as much fluid as it did!

The factory design of the pan mating area is poor: rolled surfaces and dimples that conspire to make little pathways for fluid to leak out.
I used a dry standard gasket (no sealant) and used my 1/4" socket set with the nutdriver handle to lightly cinch the bolts down.
Not a drop of wet fluid to be seen, after a test drive and 4 hours of sitting. Yay!!!