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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#425065
08/01/09 09:00 AM
08/01/09 09:00 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
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Quote:
Quote:
I would think that a polished floor would be the last surface that you would want in a garage, water, oil, grease, unless you just polish your car in it, you will be on your back before you know it. I would put down a light grey epoxy coating with a slight non slip texture that would be easy to wipe and sweep up. 
I was thinking about putting sand in the clear coat,
I seen this done in the lab I worked in ... worked
well(I wont put as much as they did, made it sorta
hard to clean)
Epoxy is the way to go. I do them but it has to be done right. The stuff in the can from HD or Shermin Williams will not last. The floor has to be etched and done right and it will last for a min of 10yrs. Dura-bond is a great product.
Rob
I was going to use a muriatic acid solution to prep
the floor... its new concrete but I have tire marks
and a little oil on it from the skid loader and
tractor from when I was putting up the iron
the polished floors are not slick, why do you think home depot and places uses it? if it were slick they wouldn't use it. no sand needed.
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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: Quicktree]
#425067
08/01/09 09:40 AM
08/01/09 09:40 AM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 705
Michigan
Hemiroid
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 705
Michigan
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Other than surfacing the concrete none of these has stood up in a real shop environments that I've seen. If you play around in your shop here and there it's ok, but if it's a shop with machines, torches, welders going everyday I've never seen anything last. Just my humble opinion, your mileage may vary.
Last edited by Hemiroid; 08/01/09 10:05 AM.
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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: Hemiroid]
#425068
08/01/09 10:03 AM
08/01/09 10:03 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
OP
Master
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OP
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Other than surfacing the concrete none of these has stood up in a real shop environments that I've seen. If you play around in your shop here and there it's ok, but if it's a shop with machines, touches, welders going everyday I've never seen anything last. Just my humble opinion, your mileage may vary.
I have all of the above but I dont do it every day
but I'm out in the shop all the time... I dont think
I've seen anything live forever but I sure want it
to last a FEW years... I try to put a flame blanket
down when I'm doing alot of welding but sometimes
when its just a small job I forget(same with the
torches if I'm cutting)
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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: Hemiroid]
#425069
08/01/09 02:45 PM
08/01/09 02:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
Quicktree
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,394
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Quote:
Other than surfacing the concrete none of these has stood up in a real shop environments that I've seen. If you play around in your shop here and there it's ok, but if it's a shop with machines, torches, welders going everyday I've never seen anything last. Just my humble opinion, your mileage may vary.
 only difference is with polished concrete you can go back and re-polish.
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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#425070
08/01/09 03:12 PM
08/01/09 03:12 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,697
Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,697
Bitopia
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I have responded to many of these type posts over the years. I've used a number of epoxies. But the one that hase given me the best results and I have used nearly 100 gals of the stuff, is an oil based Pratt & Lambert "Palguard" 1:1 Epoxy. It is approx $60/gal. It is almost impossible to scratch. One of the primary uses for us is painting floors of semi trucks. In those trucks we weekly load/unload metal stages, most of it sharp and alot of it is slid. The stuff is tough. I also paint our warehouse floors with it. I don't know why everyone is so into etching. I have done it. IMO it only needs to be clean, swept, dry, and as oil free as possible. Etching only gives a rough, and IMO undesireable, finished surface. It seems to me maybe only needed for the lesser water based finishes. Palguard has no problem sticking to a non etched surface. In my car work area I top coated the epoxy witha 2 part oil based urethane, which makes it high gloss, retains the gloss much longer, because all epoxies have a tendency to dull/chalk. The Car area is however rather slick if wet, but very easy to clean. The high gloss does show any slight imperfections in the concrete. After 20 years of using Plaguard, I'm still happy. 
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: Quicktree]
#425071
08/01/09 03:53 PM
08/01/09 03:53 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,252
Sebring, Florida
Mopar Grandpa
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,252
Sebring, Florida
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Quote:
Quote:
I used a water borne epoxy from ICI that I added some of their fine granuals to to prevent a super slick floor when it gets wet. My floor has been done for about 8 years +/- and is holding up great. No chipping, peeling, no nothing. Key to a good job is always in the prep. Be sure to follow the manufacturers instructions and you won't have a problem. Ask MR2 Performance, he has seen my floor.
it all depends on what you use it for. if you just park a car in it or you really do a lot of shop work. believe me it will chip or scratch if you drag something over it.sometimes it can't be helped.
Not my floor and I've drug a lot of stuff across it. This product from ICI is an industrial grade epoxy, not like the stuff from Lowes or Home Depot.
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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#425074
08/01/09 07:33 PM
08/01/09 07:33 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,252
Sebring, Florida
Mopar Grandpa
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,252
Sebring, Florida
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Quote:
Not my floor and I've drug a lot of stuff across it. This product from ICI is an industrial grade epoxy, not like the stuff from Lowes or Home Depot.
So where do you get it from.... is ICI the name of
the company
ICI bought out Glidden Paints. You should be able to find them in your yellow pages or google them. Whatever you decide I would definately talk to one of their experienced paint rep's to be 100% sure their products are suitable to your requirements no matter which company you use. I personally would stay away from Lowes & Home Depot as these stores are really geared toward the home owner and do-it-yourselfers.
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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#425075
08/01/09 08:54 PM
08/01/09 08:54 PM
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,169
Virginia Beach, VA
Old School
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,169
Virginia Beach, VA
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Quote:
Quote:
On my last shop I used the Sherwin-WIlliams stuff
on the work area and the behr on the traffic areas
The Sherwin-wiliams stuff after 5 years of abuse looked great still ..bit expensive though, not awful
On my new shop I used the kits from Home-Depot or Lowes from Rustoleuom and after 4 years it still looks good and is holding up well
If your eyes are weak, don't use the chips cause its hard to find small pieces if you drop them
It can be a bit slippery if water gets down
My shop is 1000 sq ft and I used 3 and 3/4 kits to
cover it
Even if the kits say they will cover 500 sq feet I think it was ..Kits cost about 65 bucks IIRC
Get a helper to shake the chips out if you use them
Does either company(Rustoleum or Sherwin ) offer
a clear coat to cover the base coat, I'm putting
a logo on the floor and need to clear over it
mr p body you need industrial epoxy floor coating for concrete.not any home depot or sherwin williams paint.you get this stuff from a contractors supply house.preferbly from a concrete supply shop.its two part,with a color coat and a clear coat.you have to put it on BEFORE ANY greese or other stains.you have to acid wash the floor then rinse and netrulize it. you let it dry overnight,put the color on,let it dry then the clear.if you follow the steps right it will not chip,flake,discolor or anything else.
it,s not to expensive,maybe $ 250 for a gallon of both.my shop is 65x30 and i used about 2 1/2 gallons.did mine about 10 years ago and when i mop it it still looks awesome.i say all this because i'm a concrete contractor, and have been for 25 years,so i know alittle about concrete.
68 cuda formula S 588" bb 5sp
70 CUDA CONVERT 500" 5SP (SUBLIME)
70 CUDA CONVERT 500" 5SP (PLUMCRAZY):TOO MUCH HORSEPOWER, IS ALMOST ENOUGH!
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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: Old School]
#425076
08/01/09 09:05 PM
08/01/09 09:05 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
OP
Master
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OP
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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mr p body you need industrial epoxy floor coating for concrete.not any home depot or sherwin williams paint.you get this stuff from a contractors supply house.preferbly from a concrete supply shop.its two part,with a color coat and a clear coat.you have to put it on BEFORE ANY greese or other stains.you have to acid wash the floor then rinse and netrulize it. you let it dry overnight,put the color on,let it dry then the clear.if you follow the steps right it will not chip,flake,discolor or anything else. it,s not to expensive,maybe $ 250 for a gallon of both.my shop is 65x30 and i used about 2 1/2 gallons.did mine about 10 years ago and when i mop it it still looks awesome.i say all this because i'm a concrete contractor, and have been for 25 years,so i know alittle about concrete.
I'll check out my local concrete supply shops, thanks
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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: Old School]
#425080
08/02/09 10:37 AM
08/02/09 10:37 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
OP
Master
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OP
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Quote:
Take a look at "AMERLOCK 400" 
thats the stuff you want
I'm surprised.. from what I read about it, it says its
for steel 
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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: dthemi]
#425082
08/02/09 09:59 PM
08/02/09 09:59 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,697
Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,697
Bitopia
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Quote:
Just dropped 3,000 for materials only with U coat it, to do 3000 sqf of our new shop floor in their 3 layer med gray with clear AF on top. We're diamond polishing the floor before we put it down, so I'll let you know how it goes. Polishing to a home depot like look is about 3 bucks a foot for a good company to do it, but you can do it with rental gear for around 30 cents a foot. what ever you put down, grind or polish the floor first.
Not sure I follow the logic here, first you mirror polish the floor, then rough it back up with acid etch, then try and smooth it back out with a thick/multi layer epoxy?
A good epoxy will darn near stick to any oil free surface except teflon. What am missing here? 
I did the acid etch route long ago I thought it was a waste and couterproductive to the end desired result. 100 gals of epoxy later I have yet to regret it.
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: Shop Floor Coverings
[Re: CRIKEY]
#425083
08/02/09 11:13 PM
08/02/09 11:13 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
OP
Master
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OP
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
This stuff just flat out STICKS & is tough as it gets, I had 3 different guys come out to look at the 25yo workshop floor I wanted to cover & they all run for the hills. The Ameron guy says, degrease it a cuple times, acid wash it, let the floor dry for 72hrs & lay it on, all the shops in my area have it down. My young fella dropped a complete 9" centre not so long ago & it barely made a mark  . Its been down a little over 2yrs now in our main workshop, the only thing that I have found that stains it slightly is trans fluid.
I assume you are referring to the Ameralock 400
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