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Worn LCA ? #424790
07/31/09 02:37 PM
07/31/09 02:37 PM
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Pierre71 Offline OP
super street
Pierre71  Offline OP
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Rebuilding a spare set of arms and noticed the torsion bar socket has quite a bit of play in it. I am going to weld in a stiffening plate to the bottom, so I know I can squeeze the halves of the arm together to take out play in the direction of the torsion bar.

But what about radial play? Is there a min/max spec for that or should I not worry about it? I know they pretty much stay put once everything is under the suspension load, just taking precautions so I don't have to do this all over again.

Re: Worn LCA ? [Re: Pierre71] #424791
07/31/09 05:03 PM
07/31/09 05:03 PM
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Fresno, CA
Jim_Lusk Offline
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Some have more play than others, but when you go to bring the two halves together cut the weld on one side of the LCA bumper plate. Then when you squeeze the halves back together you can weld that back up and this will eliminate a lot of the play.

Re: Worn LCA ? [Re: Jim_Lusk] #424792
07/31/09 05:36 PM
07/31/09 05:36 PM
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petaluma,ca. u.s.a.
west Offline
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i think your first paragraph is on the same path as what jim said.
but if the hex is worn to the point where the bar is floating in there i would replace them.

Re: Worn LCA ? [Re: west] #424793
08/01/09 12:36 AM
08/01/09 12:36 AM
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Pierre71 Offline OP
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Sorry, didn't mean the socket itself but rather that whole assembly with the arm that meets the ride height screw.

I wasn't going to cut the bumper plate, just squeeze it together and weld the bottom plate on. Now that you mention it, squeezing the halves of the arm together would put the bumper plate in a bind. Good call.

I squeezed the arm in the vice until I couldn't turn the torsion bar socket, then backed up just a smidge. This eliminated most all the play and will have to do for another 40 someodd years.

Re: Worn LCA ? [Re: Pierre71] #424794
08/01/09 05:15 AM
08/01/09 05:15 AM
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So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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Quote:

Sorry, didn't mean the socket itself but rather that whole assembly with the arm that meets the ride height screw.

I wasn't going to cut the bumper plate, just squeeze it together and weld the bottom plate on. Now that you mention it, squeezing the halves of the arm together would put the bumper plate in a bind. Good call.

I squeezed the arm in the vice until I couldn't turn the torsion bar socket, then backed up just a smidge. This eliminated most all the play and will have to do for another 40 someodd years.




That's what I did over 10 years ago. I can't tell you that one thing made a difference, but it seemed the right thing to do.

Re: Worn LCA ? [Re: autoxcuda] #424795
08/01/09 12:05 PM
08/01/09 12:05 PM
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Posts: 201
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Pierre71 Offline OP
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Quote:

That's what I did over 10 years ago. I can't tell you that one thing made a difference, but it seemed the right thing to do.




Yep, I found your pic in a search. I just didn't know what to do on the side-side play. Apparently "the squeeze" helps with that too.

Re: Worn LCA ? [Re: Pierre71] #424796
08/01/09 06:07 PM
08/01/09 06:07 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,791
Hamilton, Ontario Canada
Magnum Offline
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I wouldn't worry about that slop.

When it's all screwed together. All that stuff moves together anyways.


69 Super Bee, 93 Mustang LX, 04 Allure Super
Re: Worn LCA ? [Re: Magnum] #424797
08/01/09 06:28 PM
08/01/09 06:28 PM
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Santa Cruz, California
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Lefty Offline
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The FSM for my 66 Coronet says up to .050" play is OK. I think that's because the rubber in the front strut rod mount allows the LCA to move fore and aft. I did the same squezee and weld job as Autoxcuda when I boxed the LCA's. I didn't like the idea of the toe changing when braking hard due to the rubber in the front strut mounts. I also used Reilly Motorsports adjustable strut rods which get rid of the rubber and replace it with a heim joint.

http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/home.php?cat=266








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