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Re: Engine Test Stand
[Re: 440child]
#424264
07/30/09 08:27 PM
07/30/09 08:27 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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One of the easiest ways is to go with an MSD unit--you can run Mopar electronic, points, or any other distributor that comes along--As time goes by this works out well--your pals and other folks will bring lots of different stuff over to run and the MSD will do them all with a couple of easy hook ups--First time stand builders get a GREAT looking sturdy unit done the find out the headers won't clear etc--I will send some pix tomorrow of a decent design and include all the little things I have learned the hard way--My stand has been changed , cut, etc over the years--I can take a Mopar on and off in a few minutes be it Big, small or Hemi Start looking for a big and small block bell ( damaged, broken at the flea will mend up and do good CHEAP ) an old 10 1/2 neutral flywheel will run most but keep an eye out for external ones as they may pop up cheap--look for damaged clutch surfaces etc so you can get a deal--I had dented flea market headers but finally got some Motor home units that give lots of room with most any head and plug arrangement---a NEW good radiator is important! I found a Ford Pick up unit NEW for about $100 at local warehouse and the inlet / outlet works out well--I have the radiator on a frame and can put it on and off with one nut! Will PM pix tomorrow--call me I can tell you lots of little tips to make it smooth--and remember.... make a notch on it after every engine so you can keep count--It makes for good conversation later.
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Re: Engine Test Stand
[Re: 440child]
#424265
07/30/09 08:48 PM
07/30/09 08:48 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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Quote:
How is everybody? listing the different gauges of wire I will need. Thanks for any help.
(1) you dont want to know (2) run regular batt cables from the battery negative to the block and batt positive to the starter large stud, 10 ga from the large starter stud in to your on/off switch, 12ga from this sw to a momentary contact sw & back out to the small starter solenoid stud for cranking. 14ga from the on/off sw out to the ballast and the "point" of the ECU pentastar connector to energize the ign.(see archives for ECU wiring diagram). 8 ga from the alt in to an ammeter then out to the alt. 16ga for any electrical gauges. 18ga for a voltmeter. these sizes dont have to be exact & if using scrap wires just use the largest wires out of a junk harness. EDIT I meant alt to ammeter then out to large starter stud
Last edited by RapidRobert; 07/30/09 08:54 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Engine Test Stand
[Re: RapidRobert]
#424266
07/30/09 08:53 PM
07/30/09 08:53 PM
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 671 Wisconsin USA
Bill MeLater
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 671
Wisconsin USA
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Quote:
Quote:
How is everybody? listing the different gauges of wire I will need. Thanks for any help.
(1) you dont want to know (2) run regular batt cables from the battery negative to the block and batt positive to the starter large stud, 10 ga from the large starter stud in to your on/off switch, 12ga from this sw to a momentary contact sw & back out to the small starter solenoid stud for cranking. 14ga from the on/off sw out to the ballast and the "point" of the ECU pentastar connector to energize the ign.(see archives for ECU wiring diagram). 8 ga from the alt in to an ammeter then out to the alt. 16ga for any electrical gauges. 18ga for a voltmeter. these sizes dont have to be exact & if using scrap wires just use the largest wires out of a junk harness.
Lik this...Seems like eveything I own is built out of junk...
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Re: Engine Test Stand
[Re: moparmojo]
#424269
07/30/09 09:18 PM
07/30/09 09:18 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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Forgot the voltage reg. Connect from the upstream side of the ballast resistor to the blue pigtail on the voltage reg connector & tee from this to either alt field terminal then connect the other alt field terminal to the green wire on the VR pigtail
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Engine Test Stand
[Re: RapidRobert]
#424270
07/30/09 09:28 PM
07/30/09 09:28 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675 Columbia, CT
moper
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675
Columbia, CT
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U ise factory points distributors on mine. Never any isssues with no spark and they were free. It alaso means a simple on/off togggle can kill the ignition. I used a aftermarket horn button to activate the ford type starter solenoid and bough extra long cables. Gages are cheapo mechanicals. I have the tach in my timing light anyway, so it's just temp and oil pressure.
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
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