Re: Blast from the Past
[Re: Payton]
#39375
05/16/10 05:32 PM
05/16/10 05:32 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246 middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246
middleOnowhere CA
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you have to wait! fresh paint doesn't buff to well, give it about a month to fully cure before you try buffing again. All is not lost, it can be fixed.
a car is never "done"
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Re: Sam's Red Rocket
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#39378
05/17/10 08:33 PM
05/17/10 08:33 PM
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1 USA
streetryder
member
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member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1
USA
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Stopped by and read this thread when it was only the middle of Part I! And now it's still going! The biggest hurdle is the prep. It'll save time if you don't use too rough a grit for prep. Not much discussed on the threads about especially what grit to use for the sanding. You can run into a lot of extra work by using too rough a grit to prep. This person tried to remove the entire clear coat by wet-sanding at first! Lots of pictures, too, from a novice's perspective. Using Rustoleum and 100% mineral spirits and roller, but it turned out nice. www.moparts50dollarpaintjob.webnode.com
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Awesome, awesome stuff.
[Re: streetryder]
#39379
05/19/10 03:32 AM
05/19/10 03:32 AM
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1 Ohio
Zaose
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member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1
Ohio
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Hey all, new here because of this thread. I've read almost every single page and I absolutely love everyone's work! Awesome cars and paint jobs. You all have given me hope that I can pull this off. I do have a few questions, if I may: 1)Where can I find Brightside paints in Ohio, if anyone knows? 2)Is brightside paint superior to Rustoleum Professional? 3)I have a white car, and am debating doing black. Looking it over, there are a ton of rubber seals - do I just tape those off and paint? Won't the white show a bit next to those seals? Or do I just need to get my tape PERFECT and it will fix that issue? This is a big one for me, and I'm leaning to just doing white to make it easy. 4)My wheels are painted white right now, will these paints be safe to paint on the wheels? I seem to recall reading it's not a good idea, is that true? If I can't paint them, then that makes my color choice easy and I'll stick with white. Thanks in advance! Will
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Re: Awesome, awesome stuff.
[Re: Zaose]
#39380
05/22/10 03:32 AM
05/22/10 03:32 AM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246 middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246
middleOnowhere CA
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1) you should be able to find it at most boat supply stores 2) I've heard that it can be, but I got great results with rusto 3)getting the tape perfect is ESSENTIAL, allong with proper prep work. For easy masking I suggest the professional grade 3M tape, its usually green, and its about $7 a roll, but way worth it. 4) I've seen guys get great long lasting results on their wheels with Rusto, some prefer it over powder coating! black is an awesome color, but, it shows defects in the paint and body work much more, its a little harder to keep clean, and it can be VERY hot in the summertime. hope this helps some!
a car is never "done"
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Re: Awesome, awesome stuff.
[Re: joeshmo]
#39385
06/18/10 12:49 AM
06/18/10 12:49 AM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246 middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53
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enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
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middleOnowhere CA
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well if your going for that "hammerd" finish, then putting clear on it sort of defeats the purpose, it would end up making it glossy.
Might I suggest the rustoleum BBQ paint, it comes in flat black and its very durrable. Withstands the brake heat to.
a car is never "done"
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Re: Awesome, awesome stuff.
[Re: THEYOUNGGUN53]
#39386
06/21/10 01:49 PM
06/21/10 01:49 PM
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 66 NY
joeshmo
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member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 66
NY
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My rims actually turned out fairly decent. Before: After: The texture hid the *many many many* flaws in the metal and I wet-sanded the outer ring to get a faux-chrome appearance. I was gonna clear coat just the outer ring but turns out the clear coat reacts with the hammered paint =P. Also, just put the first layer of paint on my car. After sanding and bondo: After second coat of primer: After wetsanding with 400 grit and more bondo patching and dent pulling. First color coat: Didn't achieve full coverage but I rolled it on pretty thin (1:1 ration paint to thinner). Any thoughts/comments? Thanks!
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Re: Awesome, awesome stuff.
[Re: joeshmo]
#39387
06/23/10 02:03 PM
06/23/10 02:03 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246 middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
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middleOnowhere CA
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looks pretty good for a first coat, hopefully the blotchyness and flat spots will go away after the second or third. It usually does, if not you may be thinning the paint a little to much. Good job so far, the rims look great
a car is never "done"
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Re: Awesome, awesome stuff.
[Re: joeshmo]
#39389
06/23/10 03:42 PM
06/23/10 03:42 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246 middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246
middleOnowhere CA
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well I would, but its not finished yet ! really it looks exactly the same except I have the steering column put back in.
a car is never "done"
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Re: Awesome, awesome stuff.
[Re: joeshmo]
#39391
07/05/10 05:16 AM
07/05/10 05:16 AM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246 middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246
middleOnowhere CA
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due to the warm weather and time of the season, try thinning the paint a little less and leaving more paint on the roller. I had the same problem but that combo seemed to fix it.
a car is never "done"
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Re: Awesome, awesome stuff.
[Re: 69DartGT]
#39393
07/11/10 11:48 PM
07/11/10 11:48 PM
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 66 NY
joeshmo
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member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 66
NY
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Quote:
Joeshmo, use two rollers, one for paint and one to level and knock down the bubbles. I didn't mix 1-1 but used a screwdriver to stir after adding thinner. I'd stir then lift the screwdriver out of the paint and count 1, 2, 3 etc watching for when the piant coming off the tip went from a stream to drips should be around a count of 8 this worked well for me when I did my truck.
Hey, thanks for the tip with the two roller thing but I still created a horrendous amount of roller marks. I thinned pretty thin, roughly 1:1. I tried it and rolled on, lots of little bubbles that popped with one pass of the dry roller. Good. However from an angled side one could still observe the roller marks. Not happy. So I tried the next panel with the same solution, only saturated the roller more. Lots of runs as it was a vertical panel but still little bubbles that rolled out nice and easy. And yet I still had marks from the side that would not disappear no matter the amount of dry rolling. Switched to a 2:1 ratio paint to thinner. Rolled on thicker, and my work time seemed to be LESS and even MORE roller marks. What gives? What am I doing wrong here? This was what I hopped to be my final coat(coat 6+2 primer coats). I have a decent 15 foot paint job but I didn't realize I'd have roller marks galore! Any tips? Thanks!
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