Here it is in a nutshell http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx I'm thinkin' HECK YEAH!!

Anyone having any problems with the paint cracking on Plastic Bumpers due to flexing? Is there any special prep required for the plastic parts?

They make an additive especially for flexible parts. I don't remember the name of it.

The thread has died down for a few days. I'm gonna repost my questions that nobody answered:
Has anyone tried Rustoleum's topside paint yet (I've only seen Brightside brand so far) and how'd that go? Also for those using Rustoleum enamel, is the regular oil-based "protective enamel" or the "high performance/professional" version better? Did anybody do a comparison panel test?

Lovely sidecar.
This is truely amazing method, and I am looking forward to painting my mustang.
I have read metallic paint doesn't work, but has any one tried a silver or silver like gray.
At the moment my car is jet black, and I was thinking of taking it back to its original colour (well close to)which was silver. I know brightside does make a light gray "settle gray" which is very close to silver, rustoleum does have a silver and also an aluminum but they look like metallic paint.
Anyway just wondering if anyone has tried a light gray / silver and can post a pic.
Thanks for the very interesting read and method, hope this thread keeps going because there is some great info here.

I found this thread a month or so ago and was so amazed that I went out and bought some sandpaper and primer. My paint (clear flaking off and paint faded terribly) and dented old 88 4 Runner need work before I can do any painting.
I am going to do this.
I am amazed that the thread is still going. Glad as well.
I have not read through all 200 or so pages, but think I have a good knowledge base to proceed when I want to finally paint.
I only wish the pics would come up from the older pages.
Anyway, being new to painting and never done any bodywork, I will learn as I go.

Any good tutorials or links on bondo that anyone can recommend? I think this will be my most glaring weakness.

Thanks, to all before me in this low $$$ painting thread. Phil

Hi all.

I am new to moparts, but have been following some of the other forums on the roller paint job.
I am about half way thru painting my 1970 Mustang Fastback. I am painting it jet gloss black using the Brightside teflon paint. I am getting good results except for some light-coloured blotchy marks you can see if you look up close and against the light. Has anyone elese painted their car gloss black using the Brightside paint ? I suspect these marks wont show on lighter colours.
Here is a pic if the completed front guard. It was polished using a Festo rotary polisher.

http://users.tpg.com.au/fanile//my-car-paint1.bmp

I am now trying Brightside's own undercoat called 'PreKote' to see if that gets rid of the blotches.
The guard in the pic has 8 coats and cured for 30 days prior to final wet-sanding with 2000 grit paper and then polishing.

Cheers,
Frank.

Frank...very impressive!

I tested cosmetic glitter. The possibilities are intriguing. It's inexpensive, *very* fine and seems to land flat. It definitely contours well. The thickest areas feel slightly finer than 400 sandpaper- I haven't tested clear coat over it yet but will soon.

a closeup photo
another photo here



*I don't know... this afternoon I saw a boxy suv thing in a parking lot that appeared to have had this very method inflicted upon it. Silver flakes even but sparse over black. it wasn't pretty.

Thanks. I remember in the beginning somewhere people had used both the regular and professional enamel, but I don't remember ever reading a comparison between the two. I'm not sure how much of a difference there is. I was at my local Menard's and went to look at their paint a few days ago - and it appeared that the regular enamel only comes in a few colors, and they will only mix different colors using the professional enamel tint base. Maybe that's the difference between the paints? The regular only comes in the basic Rustoleum colors? I don't know, I have to do more research.

Anyways, nice job on the sidecar. Be sure to post your progress on the van, and when you're finished let us know how much paint you used on it. I'm thinking of painting an '89 Crown Victoria, and it probably has a comparable amount of surface area lol.

You wouldn't happen to have taken any photos of your tests, would you?

And I agree that a metal flake would likely need to be sprayed on to get it even enough. I'm not sure about putting the final coat of paint over the flake though, I know the coats are supposed to be thin, but I'd think the paint would cover up most of the flake effect. Guess that's something I'll have to experiment with next summer.

I have been reading these posts for several months and getting ready to paint my 63 Mercury Comet white with blue Shelby stripes. I plan on rollerizing most of the car and spraying the hard to get places, like door jams and trunk. I am still sanding and filling and have some time for planning... Just curious if the jams and hard to reach places are painted before or after the large panels are rolled?
Thanks!

always paint hard to reach places first, especially if you plan on spraying them. that way you won't get any overspray on the flat panels.

i finally started on my car after reading since january 2006. figured i would be an expert on the subject by now.
a few friends and i started by cleaning the car, sanded with 400 grit, cleaned off, the one friend used the foam brush in tight areas while i rolled large areas and tried to smooth out his runs and sags.
i have only put clean metal primer on so far cut with black to speed up the process(maybe about 50%/50% and also added some mineral spirits, but the primer is already pretty thin.
the weather was maybe 60% humidity and maybe 65-70*
the 400 grit did not leave the paint/primer as rough as i thought it would, and i also noticed some area that i rolled over lifted (it seemed),possibly just wiping off.
waited about 13 hours(70-75% humidity this morning) and went out to the car today to wipe down with mineral spirits and see if the my hurting too short of finger nails could scratch the paint....it scratches off pretty easily in some areas, and taking mineral spirits to it after that made the paint sort of easy to rub off.
i still plan on using 600 to scuff the primer before putting my black down, but figured primer would give me better adhesion.
car is outside at the moment, wanted to get it painted in the natural light and hopefully bake on before moving it back into the garage, but it is supposed to rain friday and saturday.
i only have a few hours tuesday and thursday before school, and only long day is wednesday before school to work on things....no electricity in my garage.
am i doing anything wrong?
is it possible that using windex to help clean initially messed up my adhesion?

Andy.

Try wiping down with Prepsol or a similar degreaser/cleaner before laying down the black.
Methylated spirits work OK too. Use a tack cloth if you have one.

Cheers,
Frank.