Plastic
[Re: Scott Carl]
#38435
09/13/08 05:39 PM
09/13/08 05:39 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anyone having any problems with the paint cracking on Plastic Bumpers due to flexing? Is there any special prep required for the plastic parts?
|
|
|
Re: Plastic
#38436
09/14/08 10:51 AM
09/14/08 10:51 AM
|
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575 Canada
Marq
mopar addict
|
mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
|
Quote:
Anyone having any problems with the paint cracking on Plastic Bumpers due to flexing? Is there any special prep required for the plastic parts?
I ended up using both Rustoleum and Brightside on my flexible plastic parts ( front aeroFX spoiler and bumper and the rear aeroFX bumper and skirt ). I have had no problem with cracking at all.
The only glitch I encountered was when I initially finished painting the car and I went to take it for a drive. I backed the car into a barbeque and it scratched the paint on the rear bumper. It just scratched out the paint at the point of contact and did not spread or lift any other paint. I just sanded down that area and re-rolled it - and things were back to normal and the paint blended in with the earlier painting.
My first thought about possible cracking on the flexible body parts would be 1 of 2 things. :
a ) the paint was applied too thick or...
b ) the surface preparation of the flexible body part left the paint adhering more to itself then to the subsurface that you were painting on to.
NOW... if the paint was applied too thick ( or not thinned out enough ) then paint is paint is paint and it would tend to crack on any surface. What would be happening is that the outer skin of the paint had cured before the layer of paint between the outer cured layer of paint and the subsurface that it had been painted on to.
The outer layer would have become rigid prior to the trapped middle layer ( which is still uncured and flexible.
IF you were to really carefully look at the spider cracks... you should see one of two things :
a ) the crack is just on the outer layer of the paint skin - but inside the crack it will only go as deep as the middle layer of the paint. OR
b ) the crack extends all the way from the outer layer of the paint skin - and the crack will go all the way down to the subsurface that it was painted on to.
This visual inspection will tell you if it was too thick and cracked or if it was an adhesion problem.
IF the surface was not properly prepared then you would find the paint being attracted to itself RATHER then adhering to the subsurface that it is being painted on to.
Flexible body parts come in three types really :
a ) brand new part from the box - needs special prep to ensure that the plastic surface is fully cleansed of all lubricants used at the mold making factory to allow easy separation of the part from the mold.
b ) used car part where there is just the original factory paint job on it. This is hopefully the easiest to work on since you just have to 'scuff' that painted surface, make it dull - removing the shine, and hopefully your paint on to that surface has the best chance of adhesion.
c ) used car part where there has been various body work and paintings applied on to it prior to you coming along and trying to add yet another layer of paint. This situation puts your paint job at risk, because you are depending on all those previuos paint jobs to hold up and not fail. If they subsequently fail ( below the surface ) then they will crack and spider your layer of paint that you put on them. The answer for a flexible body part with so many multiple layers of paint is to sand down as many of those 'extra' coats of paint as you can.. trying to reduce the number of potential previous layers that might fail.
On my McLaren... the original owner had painted the car THREE TIMES. The front air dam and air intake of the front spoiler was thick with paint. So much so that even those layers of paint were cracking. I had two choices... attempt to sand down and remove those previous cracking paint jobs OR just replace the whole front plastic bumper and airdam. I just went an replaced it because even with substantial sanding I knew that I would never be able to trust those previous paintings to not fail. So by replacing with a new part from the box.. all I had to do was seriously wipe down and cleanse the new part and get the mold silicants off the part.
Don't know if this helps... but those are the initial thoughts off the top of my head on the topic.
Marq
.
|
|
|
Re: Hi
[Re: cyphre666]
#38438
09/14/08 06:27 PM
09/14/08 06:27 PM
|
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575 Canada
Marq
mopar addict
|
mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
|
Quote:
They make an additive especially for flexible parts. I don't remember the name of it.
Hmmm... the name Flextrol seems to ring a bell in the back of my head. But I could be wrong. But you are right that there is some additive available that will give the applied paint a little more flexibility when it cures...
.
|
|
|
Re: Hi
[Re: Marq]
#38439
09/20/08 03:48 AM
09/20/08 03:48 AM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
The thread has died down for a few days. I'm gonna repost my questions that nobody answered: Has anyone tried Rustoleum's topside paint yet (I've only seen Brightside brand so far) and how'd that go? Also for those using Rustoleum enamel, is the regular oil-based "protective enamel" or the "high performance/professional" version better? Did anybody do a comparison panel test?
|
|
|
Re: Hi
#38440
09/20/08 05:28 AM
09/20/08 05:28 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 32 Edgerton WI
Donny O.
member
|
member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 32
Edgerton WI
|
Quote:
The thread has died down for a few days. I'm gonna repost my questions that nobody answered: Has anyone tried Rustoleum's topside paint yet (I've only seen Brightside brand so far) and how'd that go? Also for those using Rustoleum enamel, is the regular oil-based "protective enamel" or the "high performance/professional" version better? Did anybody do a comparison panel test?
I have read every page of this thread over the past 2+ years and I don't recall anyone trying rustoleum topside or anyone doing a comparison test of the others either....but hey my memory has never been perfect!!
since it is slow I will share that I started another project. very happy with how my sidecar turned out so I offered to paint my father in laws van.
typical mid 90's chrysler van with the paint peeling off. he tried spraying a few spots with a can and it looked even worse. so far I power washed the loose stuff off and scraped the rest off with a putty knife/scraper. only doing the roof and hood as they were the worst....might do the rest later if it turns out good. i'm now up to the second coat of paint and will wet sand today and lay another. I took pictures of before anything, then after scraping and sanding then after the first coat. will try to take more as time goes along and update..
here is the page for the van http://rides.webshots.com/album/567133641LnqHvQ
and the page for my sidecar that I painted http://rides.webshots.com/album/559630508GUGsFC
|
|
|
Re: Hi
[Re: Donny O.]
#38441
09/21/08 11:40 AM
09/21/08 11:40 AM
|
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14 usa
aussie
member
|
member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14
usa
|
Lovely sidecar. This is truely amazing method, and I am looking forward to painting my mustang. I have read metallic paint doesn't work, but has any one tried a silver or silver like gray. At the moment my car is jet black, and I was thinking of taking it back to its original colour (well close to)which was silver. I know brightside does make a light gray "settle gray" which is very close to silver, rustoleum does have a silver and also an aluminum but they look like metallic paint. Anyway just wondering if anyone has tried a light gray / silver and can post a pic. Thanks for the very interesting read and method, hope this thread keeps going because there is some great info here.
Last edited by aussie; 09/21/08 11:45 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Hi
[Re: aussie]
#38442
09/21/08 09:56 PM
09/21/08 09:56 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1 Reno, Nevada, USA
Phil_D1954
member
|
member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1
Reno, Nevada, USA
|
I found this thread a month or so ago and was so amazed that I went out and bought some sandpaper and primer. My paint (clear flaking off and paint faded terribly) and dented old 88 4 Runner need work before I can do any painting. I am going to do this. I am amazed that the thread is still going. Glad as well. I have not read through all 200 or so pages, but think I have a good knowledge base to proceed when I want to finally paint. I only wish the pics would come up from the older pages. Anyway, being new to painting and never done any bodywork, I will learn as I go.
Any good tutorials or links on bondo that anyone can recommend? I think this will be my most glaring weakness.
Thanks, to all before me in this low $$$ painting thread. Phil
87 Dodge W 150, Reg. Cab, LWB, 318, 3 Sp. Auto, Caravan Shell, PW, PDL, Tilt, Cruise, A/C (doesn't work),
|
|
|
Re: Hi
[Re: aussie]
#38443
09/21/08 10:01 PM
09/21/08 10:01 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Hi all. I am new to moparts, but have been following some of the other forums on the roller paint job. I am about half way thru painting my 1970 Mustang Fastback. I am painting it jet gloss black using the Brightside teflon paint. I am getting good results except for some light-coloured blotchy marks you can see if you look up close and against the light. Has anyone elese painted their car gloss black using the Brightside paint ? I suspect these marks wont show on lighter colours. Here is a pic if the completed front guard. It was polished using a Festo rotary polisher. http://users.tpg.com.au/fanile//my-car-paint1.bmpI am now trying Brightside's own undercoat called 'PreKote' to see if that gets rid of the blotches. The guard in the pic has 8 coats and cured for 30 days prior to final wet-sanding with 2000 grit paper and then polishing. Cheers, Frank.
|
|
|
Re: metallic flakes
#38445
09/23/08 09:44 AM
09/23/08 09:44 AM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
I tested cosmetic glitter. The possibilities are intriguing. It's inexpensive, *very* fine and seems to land flat. It definitely contours well. The thickest areas feel slightly finer than 400 sandpaper- I haven't tested clear coat over it yet but will soon. a closeup photo another photo here *I don't know... this afternoon I saw a boxy suv thing in a parking lot that appeared to have had this very method inflicted upon it. Silver flakes even but sparse over black. it wasn't pretty.
Last edited by cbar; 09/23/08 04:17 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Hi
[Re: Donny O.]
#38447
09/23/08 09:48 PM
09/23/08 09:48 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Thanks. I remember in the beginning somewhere people had used both the regular and professional enamel, but I don't remember ever reading a comparison between the two. I'm not sure how much of a difference there is. I was at my local Menard's and went to look at their paint a few days ago - and it appeared that the regular enamel only comes in a few colors, and they will only mix different colors using the professional enamel tint base. Maybe that's the difference between the paints? The regular only comes in the basic Rustoleum colors? I don't know, I have to do more research.
Anyways, nice job on the sidecar. Be sure to post your progress on the van, and when you're finished let us know how much paint you used on it. I'm thinking of painting an '89 Crown Victoria, and it probably has a comparable amount of surface area lol.
|
|
|
Re: metallic flakes
[Re: Marq]
#38448
09/23/08 09:54 PM
09/23/08 09:54 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
You wouldn't happen to have taken any photos of your tests, would you?
And I agree that a metal flake would likely need to be sprayed on to get it even enough. I'm not sure about putting the final coat of paint over the flake though, I know the coats are supposed to be thin, but I'd think the paint would cover up most of the flake effect. Guess that's something I'll have to experiment with next summer.
|
|
|
Painting the Door Jams
[Re: Scott Carl]
#38449
09/24/08 10:21 PM
09/24/08 10:21 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 33 San Francisco
Mercurymarc
member
|
member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 33
San Francisco
|
I have been reading these posts for several months and getting ready to paint my 63 Mercury Comet white with blue Shelby stripes. I plan on rollerizing most of the car and spraying the hard to get places, like door jams and trunk. I am still sanding and filling and have some time for planning... Just curious if the jams and hard to reach places are painted before or after the large panels are rolled? Thanks!
Last edited by Mercurymarc; 09/24/08 10:26 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Painting the Door Jams
[Re: Jerry]
#38451
09/25/08 11:21 AM
09/25/08 11:21 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13 toronto, ohio
andyoucankeepit
member
|
member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
toronto, ohio
|
i finally started on my car after reading since january 2006. figured i would be an expert on the subject by now. a few friends and i started by cleaning the car, sanded with 400 grit, cleaned off, the one friend used the foam brush in tight areas while i rolled large areas and tried to smooth out his runs and sags. i have only put clean metal primer on so far cut with black to speed up the process(maybe about 50%/50% and also added some mineral spirits, but the primer is already pretty thin. the weather was maybe 60% humidity and maybe 65-70* the 400 grit did not leave the paint/primer as rough as i thought it would, and i also noticed some area that i rolled over lifted (it seemed),possibly just wiping off. waited about 13 hours(70-75% humidity this morning) and went out to the car today to wipe down with mineral spirits and see if the my hurting too short of finger nails could scratch the paint....it scratches off pretty easily in some areas, and taking mineral spirits to it after that made the paint sort of easy to rub off. i still plan on using 600 to scuff the primer before putting my black down, but figured primer would give me better adhesion. car is outside at the moment, wanted to get it painted in the natural light and hopefully bake on before moving it back into the garage, but it is supposed to rain friday and saturday. i only have a few hours tuesday and thursday before school, and only long day is wednesday before school to work on things....no electricity in my garage. am i doing anything wrong? is it possible that using windex to help clean initially messed up my adhesion?
03 cobra, 85 mustang, 59 galaxie, 68 sportster
|
|
|
Re: Painting the Door Jams
[Re: Mercurymarc]
#38452
09/25/08 07:51 PM
09/25/08 07:51 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Quote:
I have been reading these posts for several months and getting ready to paint my 63 Mercury Comet white with blue Shelby stripes. I plan on rollerizing most of the car and spraying the hard to get places, like door jams and trunk. I am still sanding and filling and have some time for planning... Just curious if the jams and hard to reach places are painted before or after the large panels are rolled? Thanks!
Mercurymarc,
Frankly I wouldn't bother spraying the door jambs - I painted mine with a foam brush and they came out great. Too much hassle with masking and overspray by spraying them.
Good luck ! Frank.
|
|
|
Re: Painting the Door Jams
[Re: andyoucankeepit]
#38453
09/25/08 07:54 PM
09/25/08 07:54 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Andy.
Try wiping down with Prepsol or a similar degreaser/cleaner before laying down the black. Methylated spirits work OK too. Use a tack cloth if you have one.
Cheers, Frank.
Last edited by Frank70; 09/25/08 08:41 PM.
|
|
|
|
|