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Re: Help [Re: ace250xr84] #38354 07/09/08 01:32 AM 07/09/08 01:32 AM
Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada Marq mopar addict
Marq mopar addict Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada	Naturally the ideal situation would be to have one uniform color. BUT your present 'tiger' configuration will work just as well in the long run. The key thing to keep in mind is that your 'tiger' look will be visible for about 4 to 6 coats ( depending if your paint/mineral spirit mixture is thinned enough - and also depending whether you are using the Rustoleum/Tremclad paint or the Brightside paint ). BUT that is ok... because you are not suppose to get instant 100% color coverage when rolling. The 'ghost' of the tiger will slowly disappear as each new coat of paint is rolled on. At this point, just satisfy yourself that your tiger is as smooth as you can get it. The layers of roller coated paint will make the tiger go away... but more importantly the smoothness of the initial surface will have a bigger impact on the final shine etc. Just don't be tempted to thicken up the paint mixture too much in a rush to get the tiger to go away. Some folks get impatient and try to rush getting some color coverage and encounter problems later because it didn't lay down ( self level ) as well as it could have if it had been thinned out. Also.. if you lay down too thick a coat in a rush to get some color coverage... well you might end up with the coats not curing ( hardening ) as quickly as they should. .

Re: Help #38355 07/09/08 02:42 PM 07/09/08 02:42 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: Quote: ...I am still a little unsure the best way to sand primer in prep for first coat paint? literally. An old body shop trick is to use two contrasting colors, like a very thin coat of black over the gray primer, as a guide coat for sanding. This stuff looks interesting for guide coat application. Has anyone tried it? 3M dry powder guide coat

Re: Help [Re: Marq] #38356 07/09/08 10:58 PM 07/09/08 10:58 PM
Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 28 Molino, Fl. ace250xr84 member
ace250xr84 member Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 28 Molino, Fl.	Well Marq you are probably right on the coverage and paint thickness. i am kind of bummed, I wanted to do this method. I feel really bothered by the amount of time I have spent on this project, granted all of it was an 1 or 2 hours time slots but a far number of half days. I have now run into 10 hour days at work so after work projects have just about been wiped off my plate. I need to speed up the process so spraying looks like a real good option. I really appreciate all the help, if any of the paint pioneers have some advice on spraying rusto with a harbour freight gravity HVLP gun. Should label thinning recomendation be ignored like when rolling (can says no more than 5%) recoat 24hrs in optimum conditions 48hrs if NOT should I go with 7-8 sec. drip test? 1,2,or 3 coats expected?

Re: Help [Re: ace250xr84] #38357 07/11/08 03:57 PM 07/11/08 03:57 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: I feel really bothered by the amount of time I have spent on this project, granted all of it was an 1 or 2 hours time slots but a far number of half days. Here's the deal. and there really is no way around it no matter how you apply the paint: Prep is the same. The time it took to make the body smooth is essential to make the car look good whether it is sprayed or rolled. There was a fellow who used a wagner power painter with excellent results, but there was a caveat about capacity or flow rate, I can't remember which right now. Bottom line was that the $29 cheapies were not the best choice. The best things I have picked up from this thread is that 1. you don't need special expensive two-part "automotive" paint to get a good durable finish. 2. Fancy paint, special booths, and skilled painters cannot hide poor prep work. So, the investment you made in time to prep is not lost, just unrealized. Banked, if you will. Seal it up with whatever you have time for, its ok.

Re: Help #38358 07/11/08 10:44 PM 07/11/08 10:44 PM
Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 28 Molino, Fl. ace250xr84 member
ace250xr84 member Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 28 Molino, Fl.	Mike are you the one with that beutiful Corvar that was rusto rollered? If so that is one sweet ride very inspiraring. I appreciate the words of wisdom. If I ever make the switch to try and spray it will be with compresor powered. Either HVLP or conventional I am leaning towards HVLP. Right now the compresor I will use is out of service. Like literally the day I made my mind up to ask my dad if i do some spraying at his house the 5hp electric motor died. The motor is at the shop so I will know in few days if its a go. In the mean time I plan on painting (trying to )the bumber trim trust me it was in sad shape and intergral to the top plastic filler for the bumber. The original black was chalky white and the quarter round at the top that use to be so called chrome with clear plastic over it was flaked out chrome with yellow to brown plastic covering it. When I primered car the trim got a good covering too. I will first do a little adhesion test to make sure the primer is really on before I paint black. I think I will use flat instead of gloss.

Re: Help [Re: ace250xr84] #38359 07/12/08 11:35 AM 07/12/08 11:35 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: Mike are you the one with that beutiful Corvar that was rusto rollered? No, not me. I have done the process on some test panels and even put a wicked black finish on a home built HTPC, but have not had either the block of time, or the garage space for an incremental marathon session, to start on my car yet. Its just as well because I can't decide whether to go with the original green or switch to black. Quote: I plan on painting (trying to )the bumper trim trust me it was in sad shape and integral to the top plastic filler for the bumper. The original black was chalky white and the quarter round at the top that use to be so called chrome with clear plastic over it was flaked out chrome with yellow to brown plastic covering it. That clear plastic covered chrome is trouble. If the plastic covering is not solid it all has to go. Back to that prep work - a clean, smooth, and solid base for your paint is essential. If the black part is chalky, make doubly sure the surface is stable and not embedded with old waxes or other contaminates. Let us know how it comes out. Last edited by Mike Da Wrench; 07/12/08 11:44 AM.

Re: Help #38360 07/13/08 10:03 PM 07/13/08 10:03 PM
Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 93 New York tt455 member
tt455 member Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 93 New York	Well I had some time this week and now that my cast is off and I'm a little more mobile it was time to give this a test shot.I had the materials from last year when I wanted to try this. This is what i got so far after mixing (50/50) 1 part rustoleum paint to 1 part mineral spirits and using a 4" foam roller.1st pic is what I started with sanding lightly with 320 a little body filler and primed only where I did some work,2nd is after 2 coats and wet sanding with 600.3rd pic after 4 coats,sanded with 800 after,4th pic after 6 coats you can see the orange peel sanded with 1000 after.5th pic is where I made my mistake and didn't sand enough with 1000 grit.6th pic is sanded with 1500 and 2000 after 8 very thin coats,now it's starting to look like it was worth it,has a nice shine after wet sanding and before polishing. Final 3 pics are after polishing using turtle wax polishing compound.1 of the pics with the polisher in it,I wanted to show a small area that hadn't been polished yet next to what was polished so you get the idea what it looks like.I know I can still get more shine with more polishing and a final wax coat.I am pretty pleased with the results and I know where I made my mistakes.Remember I really didn't do much prep work or it would look a lot better.I just wanted to see what it would look like if I paint my car this way without sanding down to metal. I found it is very important not to get lazy when you wet sand.I was afraid I'd take to much off,and that's where the orange peel came in.So my last stages of sanding where brutal just to get it out.I know there's some still there,but that's ok since I know what to do now.

Re: Help #38361 07/14/08 12:54 AM 07/14/08 12:54 AM
Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 28 Molino, Fl. ace250xr84 member
ace250xr84 member Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 28 Molino, Fl.	Sorry for the confusion just checking, The clear plastic looks solid. The black trim got a good shot of 120 grit then 320 grit before cleaning with MS. Trust me I wanted it gone but just looked like the worst of the two options. Other parts of project I did passenger side door jams with rattle can rusto and it looks pretty good. Very promissing.

Re: Help [Re: tt455] #38362 07/14/08 02:48 AM 07/14/08 02:48 AM
Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,042 Leucadia, Ca. V vdriver top fuel
vdriver top fuel V Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,042 Leucadia, Ca.	tt455:

A short story on the process... [Re: Marq] #38363 07/14/08 09:30 AM 07/14/08 09:30 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Our weekend community paper had a salute to classic cars, which was pretty cool. However, one of the stories involved using Rustoleum to paint. It also referenced the original thread here on Moparts.com., and has a neat before and after shot. Here's a link to the story: http://www.fayobserver.com/article?id=298959

Re: A short story on the process... #38364 07/19/08 11:35 PM 07/19/08 11:35 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	ok...me and a couple guys bought a 76 chev g20 van, already did most bondo work, and prepping. Were planning on painting it a flat black with gold trim, wheels with chrome bumpers, and beauty rings. Wondering about a few points... a) what is the thinning procedure for 1 gallon of tremclad flat black paint? How much mineral spirits do i have to mix in? b)What do i all have to buy? c)What is the difference between roll-on vs. spray on? (air comp, gun and location already taken care of)

Re: A short story on the process... #38365 07/20/08 02:40 PM 07/20/08 02:40 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	do you think you could mix in a pearl with this? http://paintwithpearl.com/ ??? that would be awesome.

Re: A short story on the process... #38366 07/21/08 03:50 PM 07/21/08 03:50 PM
Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 49 Maine B Blackstone member
Blackstone member B Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 49 Maine	Pearl has been discussed at length. I believe there was a blotchy consistency problem similar to that of metallics which couldn't be remedied without spraying.

Hi all! New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: plum500] #38367 07/24/08 11:59 PM 07/24/08 11:59 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	wow...4 days of educational and often times entertaining reading... found this thread from an article in hot rod magazine. i've read every post and feel like i know many of you already. ive got an '81 ford f-150...when i pulled it out of the field it was in it had dodge rims so i hope that counts...lol anyway..ive been in the house painting business for years and know a thing or two about oil based paints. ive painted many surfaces, structures, and vehicles over the years, but never thought to roll my truck. i already had figured i'd use rustoleum or something similar but intended to spray it. what i hate about spraying oil based paints is how the overspray rolls and gums up the surface...ive painted cars in the past by hand but always rolled the paint on then back brushed it. so as i read all of your trials, experiments, insights, and successes i began prepping my truck for paint. i descided to pretty much take 69 chargers method. i like penetrol and jap drier but opted out. also being that i was going red i was worried about coverage so i ended up using ace rust stop tractor paint....international harvester red..it covers better and if its good enough for a tractor its good enough for me. here are a few shots...just put the first coat on today. relatively large amount of orange peel....roughly 20% spirits, but wanted a good base coat. i dont mind sanding either. ill be moving to thinner coats as more get applied. i did use the foam roller which worked okay, however the roller itself is a cause for bubbles...all my bubbles did disapear though. i will be switching to a velour roller. ive used them for years painting elevator doors, cabinets, and other furniture items that were not practical to spray. thanks again to you all for the inspiration and advise. i look forward to meeting you all. coat1 Last edited by makers13; 07/25/08 11:04 AM.

Re: Hi all! New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38368 07/26/08 11:04 AM 07/26/08 11:04 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 12,405 Southern, Ca. 69DartGT OP moparts member
69DartGT OP moparts member Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 12,405 Southern, Ca.	Looking great that is quite a transformation BTW like the color

Re: A short story on the process... #38369 07/27/08 09:13 AM 07/27/08 09:13 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	From personal experience, I can tell ya that the guys at Paint With Pearl are great and this is one customer that will continue going back to them. I would never recommend Top Secret Coatings however. There is a problem with roller painting pearl and flakes. But there is an easy way around it should you want a two stage--or even one stage--paint with rollers and a little extra. I'd follow all of the instructions found here and get down to a final glass like surface. Not polished of course. Then I'd use a rechargeable rattle can and fill the clear coat with pearl and/or metal flake and add the pearl coats on with that method. http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/produ...ProductID=14355 They're not that expensive, and they're reusable. Or if you're patient, buy a very inexpensive air brush set from ACE, cheapest I could find, and try that. But the rattle can from Eastwood would make more sense. I'm in the same situation as most of you, trying to find the cheapest way to work on our cars and city codes and ordinances keep me from spray painting the car with anything other than rattle cans. The roller method fills a need and does it well. If you want just a metal flake, then try hand casting the flakes over a wet coat like they did back in the day when the flakes were larger and would clog the spray nozzles. Hand casting a micro flake from Paint With Pearl is pretty easy since it is such a small flake, you don't have to worry about knock down sanding since it settles into the paint rather well. I know that this works, I tested the process on a Sattelite Hood and it came out looking good. Black base, emerald green flake. (no, I don't have pictures, it's been over a year since I did this and I don't have the hood anymore.) There's always a way around a problem and if you're jonesin' for a Pearl coat, I'd recommend trying this. Last edited by Serious Sat; 07/27/08 09:27 AM.

Re: Hi all! New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38370 08/01/08 08:12 AM 08/01/08 08:12 AM
Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 13 Ohio 69stanger member
69stanger member Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 13 Ohio	Your truck is looking nice! A fellow ZX2 owner also I see. Freedom Of Speed!

Re: Hi all! New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38371 08/01/08 05:35 PM 08/01/08 05:35 PM
Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 5,660 Flint, MI Gusteve I Love the Unicorn Song!!
Gusteve I Love the Unicorn Song!! Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 5,660 Flint, MI	Quote: wow...4 days of educational and often times entertaining reading... found this thread from an article in hot rod magazine. i've read every post and feel like i know many of you already. ive got an '81 ford f-150...when i pulled it out of the field it was in it had dodge rims so i hope that counts...lol anyway..ive been in the house painting business for years and know a thing or two about oil based paints. ive painted many surfaces, structures, and vehicles over the years, but never thought to roll my truck. i already had figured i'd use rustoleum or something similar but intended to spray it. what i hate about spraying oil based paints is how the overspray rolls and gums up the surface...ive painted cars in the past by hand but always rolled the paint on then back brushed it. so as i read all of your trials, experiments, insights, and successes i began prepping my truck for paint. i descided to pretty much take 69 chargers method. i like penetrol and jap drier but opted out. also being that i was going red i was worried about coverage so i ended up using ace rust stop tractor paint....international harvester red..it covers better and if its good enough for a tractor its good enough for me. here are a few shots...just put the first coat on today. relatively large amount of orange peel....roughly 20% spirits, but wanted a good base coat. i dont mind sanding either. ill be moving to thinner coats as more get applied. i did use the foam roller which worked okay, however the roller itself is a cause for bubbles...all my bubbles did disapear though. i will be switching to a velour roller. ive used them for years painting elevator doors, cabinets, and other furniture items that were not practical to spray. thanks again to you all for the inspiration and advise. i look forward to meeting you all. Welcome! But that's some pretty brutal orange peel. If that's coat #1 I'd say you are putting it on way too thick. I'd sand the crap out of it, (and you'll probably end up sanding a lot of it off, back down to the original paint) and give it another try. With full respect given to your experience in house painting, I'd advise against using a velour roller. You'll end up with WAY too thick of a coat. And you'll never fill in all the orange peel by adding new (and or thick) coats. FYI - this is coat #1 - black over red: 4591123-DSC18044.JPG (184 downloads)

Re: Hi all! New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Gusteve] #38372 08/01/08 05:40 PM 08/01/08 05:40 PM
Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 5,660 Flint, MI Gusteve I Love the Unicorn Song!!
Gusteve I Love the Unicorn Song!! Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 5,660 Flint, MI	BTW - realized I never posted my finished product: Before: 4591133-DSC18029.JPG (357 downloads)

Re: Hi all! New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Gusteve] #38373 08/01/08 05:41 PM 08/01/08 05:41 PM
Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 5,660 Flint, MI Gusteve I Love the Unicorn Song!!
Gusteve I Love the Unicorn Song!! Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 5,660 Flint, MI	After: 4591136-DSC01170.JPG (410 downloads)

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