Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is junk
#382540
07/21/09 09:22 PM
07/21/09 09:22 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,528 Mansfield, Tx
Jacob Pitt
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My engine is apart getting a new block and pistons. Took everything in yesterday and they told me that my K1 crank that had 5 passes on it is cracked in 20 places with the biggest being over a inch long and the crank is bent. My question is what could have caused this? I had Reher-Morrison perform the balance on it when it was new so they should have known if it was bent, right? I pulled the motor out because the oil pressure was getting low and it kept lugging down and stalling to find the center three main bearings with what looked to be overheated. The block had the center three caps were splayed and I had replaced the outer allen head holts with grade 8 bolts because I couldn't torque the allen heads. So what came first? Was the line hone distorted from the now fully torqued main caps, or was the crank bent to begin with? The crank is junk and will need to be replaced but I am curious as to why this happened. It's my first bent crank and it's almost brand new. Here is a pic of the main bearings.
2013 NHRA D4 Stock Champ #4 in the World IHRA Stock 2x IHRA Div.4 Stock Champ 14x Track Champ All using a Ultimate Converter Concepts converter. Call Lenny today 704-892-6837
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is junk
[Re: Jacob Pitt]
#382544
07/21/09 09:40 PM
07/21/09 09:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,278 Mission BC
10sec440
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Quote:
The block had the center three caps were splayed and I had replaced the outer allen head holts with grade 8 bolts because I couldn't torque the allen heads.
This is a red flag for me, don't really know what it means.The main cap bolts or studs should be torqued the same while being line bored as they are while being run. Other than that it looks like assembly error to go that bad that fast. Insufficient bearing clearance?
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is junk
[Re: Jacob Pitt]
#382545
07/21/09 10:09 PM
07/21/09 10:09 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,456 Out West
408strokerdart
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Quote:
My engine is apart getting a new block and pistons. Took everything in yesterday and they told me that my K1 crank that had 5 passes on it is cracked in 20 places with the biggest being over a inch long and the crank is bent. My question is what could have caused this? I had Reher-Morrison perform the balance on it when it was new so they should have known if it was bent, right? I pulled the motor out because the oil pressure was getting low and it kept lugging down and stalling to find the center three main bearings with what looked to be overheated. The block had the center three caps were splayed and I had replaced the outer allen head holts with grade 8 bolts because I couldn't torque the allen heads. So what came first? Was the line hone distorted from the now fully torqued main caps, or was the crank bent to begin with? The crank is junk and will need to be replaced but I am curious as to why this happened. It's my first bent crank and it's almost brand new. Here is a pic of the main bearings.
Worst set of bearings I have ever seen from a 5 pass motor. Looks like insufficient bearing clearance likely caused by a bent crank or improper torque either at assembly or when machining was done.
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is j
[Re: 10sec440]
#382546
07/21/09 10:13 PM
07/21/09 10:13 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,528 Mansfield, Tx
Jacob Pitt
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What is really wild is that the two main bearings on the ends looked fine. There was no detonation with 34* total timing with 11.5to1 compression with 110 octane race fuel. No water in the oil either, at least not visible. I'm having a hard time with this. Everything was new except the block. I took a assembly out of the block, and put this assembly in. Kept the main studs the same and changed the outer bolts on the splayed caps. Had .0024 main bearing clearance.
2013 NHRA D4 Stock Champ #4 in the World IHRA Stock 2x IHRA Div.4 Stock Champ 14x Track Champ All using a Ultimate Converter Concepts converter. Call Lenny today 704-892-6837
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is j
[Re: Jacob Pitt]
#382547
07/21/09 10:23 PM
07/21/09 10:23 PM
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Joined: Jun 2009
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Barnstorm
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You can drive yourself nuts trying to analyse motor autopsy's. Some are real apparent, some drive U crazy. We've all been broke and U just plan the next one.
The little old lady from Pasadena is back!
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is junk
[Re: Jacob Pitt]
#382551
07/22/09 12:05 AM
07/22/09 12:05 AM
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Anonymous
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it's very unlikely that the crank was bent. had it been, they would have never been able to balance it. it appears that a number of things could have gone worng with the engine after seeing the pictures of the bearings. what do the rod bearings look like front and back? severe detonation, oiling issues, bearing clearances and many more things come to mind. as mentioned, changing fasteners (and torque loads) on the mains could also be a likely suspect. what condition is the block in now?
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is j
[Re: Jacob Pitt]
#382552
07/22/09 01:25 AM
07/22/09 01:25 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,278 Mission BC
10sec440
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Quote:
What is really wild is that the two main bearings on the ends looked fine. Had .0024 main bearing clearance.
I think this proves it was an assembly error or a parts error. If it had have been oil related or a bent crank, all the mains would have been wiped out.I agree I'd like to see the rod bearings. It had .0024" clearance actually measured with bore guages? Or Plasiguage?
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is j
[Re: 10sec440]
#382553
07/22/09 06:46 AM
07/22/09 06:46 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
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Jacob Pitt
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The rod bearings looked good as well. They were a little messed up from the junk from the main bearings. I suspected that the three center main caps were the culprit once I pulled it down. I assume the outer bolts never were torqued to begin with on the original build. This block is not being reused. I have a tall deck R3 at the machine shop right now. It was a 4.00 crank and it saw 7000rpm two times. Dan I'll be calling you.
2013 NHRA D4 Stock Champ #4 in the World IHRA Stock 2x IHRA Div.4 Stock Champ 14x Track Champ All using a Ultimate Converter Concepts converter. Call Lenny today 704-892-6837
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is j
[Re: Jacob Pitt]
#382554
07/22/09 07:03 AM
07/22/09 07:03 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
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jyrki
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I have dealt with a four bolt converted block some, and in that block if not torqued properly the center three caps do change every dimension in the short block. Until you torque them all down, the crank usually won't even turn. so, that makes me think that the linehone should have performed with the maincaps tprqued the same as in actual use. When things heat up, that kind of things happen, incuding the cracks in the crank. I don't think the crank caused it.
Plynouth VIP '67 TT IC EFI
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is j
[Re: jyrki]
#382555
07/22/09 09:57 AM
07/22/09 09:57 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,544 Syracuse,NY
CompWedgeEngines
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I agree with JRYKI. This is especially true on stock block small blocks. You'd be amazed at how much those lower ends move around based on torque. They are really not great candidates for 4 bolt conversion. My own opinion is its better to use a good ProGram 2 bolt cap and studs than a 4 bolt conversion on the stock block stuff.
I am sorry to hear of the damage. It sucks to go thru so much to have it live only a few passes. It does seem to be something other thn the crank failing however. My guess is the center of the crank was not supported by the three changed center caps and it was flexing severley.
Good luck with your new build and just chalk it up to experience and move on to a bigger better engine.
RIP Monte Smith
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WD for Diamond Pistons,Sidewinder cylinder heads, Wiseco, K1 rods and cranks,BAM lifters, Morel lifters, Molnar Technologies, Harland Sharp, Pro Gear, Cometic, King Engine Bearings and many others.
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Post deleted by Defbob
[Re: Jacob Pitt]
#382556
07/22/09 10:04 AM
07/22/09 10:04 AM
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is junk
#382557
07/22/09 10:16 AM
07/22/09 10:16 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
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Jacob Pitt
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Thanks for all the info guys. I'm trying to be the best engine builder I can be, but being young without any real engine building mentors around I have to learn by doing. I usually learn the most when something gets messed up. I never had a good feeling about the block in question and should have replaced it but when it is your own money you tend to believe in parts you shouldn't. The new motor will be much better I'm sure.
2013 NHRA D4 Stock Champ #4 in the World IHRA Stock 2x IHRA Div.4 Stock Champ 14x Track Champ All using a Ultimate Converter Concepts converter. Call Lenny today 704-892-6837
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is junk
[Re: Jacob Pitt]
#382558
07/22/09 10:55 AM
07/22/09 10:55 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,131 Amarillo, Texas
BBR
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Could a cracked block (possibly weakened by the splayed bolt machine work) cause the same scenario?
Drag Week 2011 - 77th place - DD Drag Week 2012 - 2nd place SRBB N/A Drag Week 2014 - Kapooya RMRW 2018 RMRW 2020
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Re: Got a call from my machine shop today K1 crank is junk
[Re: Jacob Pitt]
#382559
07/22/09 11:03 AM
07/22/09 11:03 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,021 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
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First off, you are making good power to run that fast at 3300 lbs. That said, I hope you either have an aftermarket block, or are working with a low deck B motor based around the 400 block. To me, it is all about keeping the rotating weight down to the minimum, and keep a good eye on clearances during assembly. I started off just like you did, not much mentorship. But guys on the board here helped tremendously. If you don't have mikes and gauges to measure every last part you are going to put together, get them. They are a lot cheaper in the long run than situations like this. I have a full set of outside mikes, a GOOD dial bore gauge, dial indicators, etc and use them all. Even the best shops can have something slip by. That said, Reher Morrison is someone I do business with when ever I can. They are great to deal with, and I trust their work and reputation. So that leads me to believe the cause of all this is not with their work. Also, I own their engine assembly books. I suggest you read all their tech articles on line as well. You have suffered the pain and expense of a motor gone sour, now it is time to reap the rewards of a very well done build! A new plan for a shortblock is in order, so ask what the guys are running. My personal favorite is like 440jims 512 lowdeck combo, a 512 cube 4.25 stroke 4.375 bore lowdeck motor with a very light bobweight. An aluminum rod motor set up this way with aluminum caps, and a girdle will handle about anything you can throw at it and live due to a bobweight of about 2000 grams. A RB motor like mine comes in at 2432 and is steel rod, and flexes the megablock I have bad enough to cause me grief. It lives, makes great power, but I would be better off with a lowdeck 4.5 bore deal! Last, but not least, is oil control and flow. Did you ever have even a small dip in oil pressure during braking? all oil passages the proper size, at least 10 psi per 1,000 rpm? minimum 15w40 or preffered 20w50 race oil? A good pan with a side bucket? All this is important, and I paid money in the form of hurt parts to learn it.
Last edited by gregsdart; 07/22/09 11:08 AM.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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