Can the fittings going into the head be soldered and re drill smaller. and if so what size would one go down too???
Thanks

I don't know about soldering, but you can tap in a Holley jet at the head or restrict at the T-fitting. I did the T-fitting using a 1/8" pipe plug and drilled it 11/64".

I have used a short piece of welding rod, 080 diameter, and bent it into a L shape it so it would stay in the head under the fitting, works good so far I have built several world blocks, the use a .040 restictor in the block to oil the rockers, they oil the rocker full time just like the indy set up does

Hello
The stock Y/T fitting & block that screws into the back of the block that comes with the standard Indy oiling Line kit can be modified. I simply drilled and tapped the NPT end of the fitting (the end that screws in the block) which is a 3/8 NPT IIRC. Anyways, just pick up the right tap, and drill for the tap, and install standard Holley jets. I used a .070 with no problems at all (you could probably run even a .060). I ran this setup on 3 diff engines too. One was a 493 RB engine with a set of 440-1, and Indy/Dove rockers. Later I upgraded the heads to CNC ported units that used the Jesel Paired rocker system. Then a few years later, I built a new Indy maxx block engine also using the Jesel system. Never had a valve train issue, matter of fact It went whole seasons before It ever need a lash adjustment, then it was never really off much. I turned these large 560+ inch engines to 8K in a few cases. You just dont need gobs of oil up top with a drag racer. I bet you could pull the valve cover, pour a quart of oil all over the valve train and make pass after pass doing this without ever hurting anything.
I will add this, make sure you have a good oiling system. These full time oiling kits will put loads of oil up top, (why it needs to be restricted) I would say a 8 qt pan, would be minimal for pan capacity.

10 quart ss pan, dual lines off dual line swinging pick up with milidon pump and cap and adjustable pressure relief spring thats set to 70 lb.
Not sure I understand? mine is about 1/8 pipe thread into head???
I'll have a better look when I pull them off.
Block is lifter bore bushed with .050 or so holes.

Thats exactly what I've done to two sets of heads, works good, still lots of oil up top. Drilled hole to 1/16"

Does anyone know the thread size on holley jets?? Looks like i can drill and tap the fitting at the head and there is enough room inside for a jet and more??
Thanks again

Thanks guys!

I need to restrict the oil going to my spray bar valve covers. In hopes that it will help my oil pressure(oil pressure is a little lower than I feel safe with). I think maybe the easiest way will be to do it at the base of the t-fitting coming out of the block. Am I correct on this?
Dodgem, I was thinking of shimming the spring in the oil pump also but like the idea of the adjustable pressure relief like you mention you have on yours. I have the Indy pump could you use one of those on this pump,if so where do you get them? THANKS!!!!

Just went out to the shop to pull off my t-fitting to the spray bar valve covers. The top of the fitting has a reducer that takes the hole size down to 9/64 the line that goes up and splits into 2 lines to fed the spray bar valve covers has a 3/32 hole in the fittings that screws down onto the 9/64 hole coming out of the block. It looks like it is already restricted enought.
Is there any need to still put a pipe plug in and drill out to 11/64 at the base of the fitting with the restriction it already has? THANKS!!!!!

I just drilled out a pair of 10-24 set screws to install in the fittings that go in the heads of my -1's. I drilled a .063" hole in them and drilled and tapped the back side of the fitting. Lock tite and an allen wrench and TADA! Anyone think I may have went too big or to small?