New Paint job on a budget thread Part III - Moparts Forums

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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. #37194 07/26/07 08:00 AM 07/26/07 08:00 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: ps, anything i should be aware of anything before pulling my doors off to give them extra attention? i havent pulled doors before. (they have the classic inside-bottom rust out crap going) Make sure you have at least one other person there to help remove them. Two people helping is better...those doors aren't super heavy, but they're a big awkward shape and you don't want to damage them. You might want to seriously consider replacing the hinge pin bushings while you have them apart. Those doors are so long they put a lot of leverage on the bushings and they wear out over time. The bushings are only a couple of bucks. Grease them before you put the pins in. IMHO the hinges they used on 3rd gen F cars were never a very good design...seems like you see a lot of them with saggy drivers side doors. If you can lift the doors without any play in the hinges, you've either got a very low milage car, or you're extremely lucky . Anyway, getting them off is the easy part...hanging them is the hard part. Like I said before, get at least one other person to help hold it...that helps a lot.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. #37195 07/26/07 10:03 AM 07/26/07 10:03 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	LOOKING GOOD SO FAR. I AM PRESENTLY DOING A 87 IROC. AS FOR THE DOORS...A FLOOR JACK WITH A SOFT PAD WORKS GREAT ON THE REAR CORNER OF THE DOOR.. I USE A FOLDED OLD T-SHIRT ON TOP. I HAVE DONE THIS JOB ALONE USING THIS METHOD BUT STILL WORKS BETTER WITH HELPER. ALS BE CAREFUL OF THE WIRING FOR THE DOOR LOCKS AND WINDOWS

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Roadster_wa] #37196 07/26/07 12:28 PM 07/26/07 12:28 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: Quote: Put down the first coat on the roof and hood. Painted The roller marks in this picture could be worked out by running different directions, and not so much pressure. You can put a bit more paint on it and work it longer until just before it gets tacky. I work the paint more than most pictures I've seen... When I put a coat on the vette, I must have went over the whole thing 5-7 times each coat, working it different directions until it stopped running and showing lines. You have to work it lightly. - Just my 2 cents here. The problem I found with that is the more times I go over the same spot with the roller, the harder it becomes to tip the paint with the brush after. I've gotten the best results as far as leveling is concerned by rolling on paint once then immediately tipping it with a foam brush. I know the brush marks look bad in that picture but the paint is actually very smooth. Also keep in mind that you are looking at the first of 3 coats. Basically whenever I over do it with the roller, I get orange peel which I think its much harder to get rid of than brush marks. I'm not saying this is a universal rule or anything. Just what I've experienced. Last edited by tjts1; 07/26/07 12:29 PM.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. #37197 07/26/07 04:22 PM 07/26/07 04:22 PM
Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 49 Maine B Blackstone member
Blackstone member B Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 49 Maine	Quote: whenever I over do it with the roller, I get orange peel which I think its much harder to get rid of than brush marks. Just a heads up... If you have any curved test panels, you may want to test the roll and tip method there first. This is where I've had a difficult time smoothing my brush marks out. Since the rubber block won't conform to curves, I've sanded my fender back to the original paint with my hands and the ripples are still there. I've yet to try the foam kneepad trick yet but I'll let you know how it works, maybe ths weekend.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Blackstone] #37198 07/26/07 09:42 PM 07/26/07 09:42 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	what is roll and tip method?

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. #37199 07/26/07 10:12 PM 07/26/07 10:12 PM
Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 49 Maine B Blackstone member
Blackstone member B Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 49 Maine	"Roll and tip" is the term used to describe the technique of rolling paint, then using a brush to help level the surface. Using this method will reduce orange peel, but create ripples. Here's how the boaters do it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bK9Zcm543x0

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Blackstone] #37200 07/26/07 11:08 PM 07/26/07 11:08 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 6,988 Warren, MI J Jerry master
Jerry master J Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 6,988 Warren, MI	i am noticing something disturbing with the rustoleum. it really doesn't seem to stand up to carb cleaner or brake cleaner very well. is this common even for finishes that have been applied for long periods of time? my factory paint won't wrinkle and peel up but the rustoleum does when i accidentally shot it with some carb cleaner while doing another repair. i only ask because i want to paint my engine bay as well and don't want to have to worry. Superior Design Concepts 2574 Elliott Dr Troy MI 48083 jerry@sdconcepts.com www.sdconcepts.com Facebook page: Superior Design Concepts www.bcrproducts.com

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Jerry] #37201 07/27/07 01:51 AM 07/27/07 01:51 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	I finished my first paint job. Put enough time in on it to make it look 1000% better than it did before I painted, exactly my intention. I didn't do all the bodywork before starting so I didn't bother spending too much time getting the paint as perfect as I could if I wanted to spend lots more time on it. Didn't seem worth it since there were dents and creases, etc. under the new paint. But I was happy with the results. And I credit the new paint with getting many of the 16 interested inquiries, including the new proud, happy owner. Thanks all for mountains of great info in this beautiful thread. Can you tell which is BEFORE and which is AFTER? I hope so!

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Blackstone] #37202 07/27/07 03:07 AM 07/27/07 03:07 AM
Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 6 Sydney, Australia D Down Under member
Down Under member D Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 6 Sydney, Australia	HELP!! While the last coat of paint on the car appears to have gone OK, I seem to notice the roller marks on the roof more than ever before. How can I fix this? Will a thin coat (50/50 mix) do the trick? I note than sanding with 1000 grit does not remove the marks.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Down Under] #37203 07/27/07 12:44 PM 07/27/07 12:44 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	from my (1st rusto)experience if I could still see roller marks I just kept going until enough new paint blended right over them. In other words you probably need more coats. The thing is I used to own a body shop and this stuff is all contrary to almost everything I learned while running my business. But with a little effort and trial and error it can look nice. here's a truck I just did: new to this site so not sure how to post more pics. By the way I tried that wet sanding stuff between coats. No Way! way to much work. after 3rd coat I just laid em on real smooth with roller did about 8-9coats w/ no primer on a brown background. only reason I wet sanded after final coat was to bring out the shine in the very small metal flake I added to the last coat. after that I put a clear in an air can ad sprayed it on. 3661112-Picture067.jpg (636 downloads)

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. #37204 07/27/07 12:53 PM 07/27/07 12:53 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	have no clue how to put up pics sorry guys i'll get em posted soon. 3661139-Picture067.jpg (709 downloads) Last edited by olurun; 07/27/07 01:02 PM.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. #37205 07/27/07 01:38 PM 07/27/07 01:38 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,588 St. John's Newfoundland 440newport master
440newport master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,588 St. John's Newfoundland	Ok, I'm about to try this method on my 81 Olds 98...I went to Canadian Tire and I got some Tremclad black rust paint, sand paper, high- density rollers, tape etc.. The only thing I couldn't find was the mineral spirits I asked the guy did they have any and he said low-odor Varasol is the same thing...I haven't tried it yet, but will this work? Or do I need actual mineral spirits? Where can I get them? 3661271-olds4.jpg (247 downloads)

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: 440newport] #37206 07/27/07 02:15 PM 07/27/07 02:15 PM
Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 49 Maine B Blackstone member
Blackstone member B Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 49 Maine	I've read in another forum that Varasol is either the same as, or contains mineral spirits.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: 440newport] #37207 07/27/07 03:07 PM 07/27/07 03:07 PM
Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada Marq mopar addict
Marq mopar addict Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada	Quote: The only thing I couldn't find was the mineral spirits I asked the guy did they have any and he said low-odor Varasol is the same thing...I haven't tried it yet, but will this work? Or do I need actual mineral spirits? Where can I get them? If you have access to a Canadian Tire... then you probably have access to a Home Depot or RENO Depot or Home Hardware.. or maybe even a Walmart. There is a difference between pure mineral spirits and other products that contain 'some mineral spirits' plus other liquids. So I would not go with the Varasol. Most people tend to use it as a 'degreaser' - not as a paint thinner. That might be the first strike against it. Guys use it to wipe down furniture prior to staining ( to remove wax ) or to clean engines and car parts ( to remove grease ). The name Var-a-sol may be the next clue.. It is either telling us that it is made from 'VARious SOLvents or that it does the job of 'VARious SOLvents'. But I am pretty sure that the product sold under the name Varasol cost more than plain old pure mineral spirits. I do understand that one thing Varasol and pure mineral spirits have in common is that they evaporate at roughly the same rate AND they both burst into flames at roughly the same temperature. But you never will hear anyone saying to pour mineral spirits on to a hot engine... they always recommend varosol. The truth is that if we were simply looking for 'a thinner' to remove paint off our paint brushes... then the guy is probably right - Varasol would do the same job as a mineral spirit. And the Varasol might even be suitable for the job of wiping down the body of the car to remove wax and debris prior to painting. BUT since we are using the mineral spirit simply as a thinning and evaporative carrier to lay down the paint, the mineral spirit is the proven carrier to do the job. Even at Home Depot you will see turpentine, varasol and a number of other 'thinners' together. You just have to look for the one that simply says ' Mineral Spirits '. You don't want the ones that simply contain a percentage of mineral spirits blended with other thinning agents. . Last edited by Marq; 07/27/07 03:36 PM.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Marq] #37208 07/27/07 03:58 PM 07/27/07 03:58 PM
Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 42 Oregon FarDarter member
FarDarter member Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 42 Oregon	I made an important discovery last night while rolling the umpteenth coat on my trunk: It really helps eliminate runs if you don't load the roller up with paint very heavily. Instead of rolling it through the pool in my tray like usual, last night I tipped the tray and moved the pool to the end while running my roller through the runoff left towards the top. After that I squeezed a bunch out on the tray and then went to work. I'm sure a lot of you have that down already but for anyone who's dealing with runs on vertical surfaces, just try going really light on the paint, where you have to really push hard to get coverage. The tip of my roller was still whitish while I was working.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: FarDarter] #37209 07/27/07 07:16 PM 07/27/07 07:16 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Just a little update. I have been making some serious head way in painting. I havent been having a problem with orange peel as the paint seems to level out mostly and if I do start to see it creep up, it seems to help out if I run the roller over it. Ive spent about 2-3 weeks on an off on the car and I like where its headed. Im planning to finish up next week. This paint is as tough as nails man, Ive accidentally wacked it several times with the metal roller arm and no chips or scratches. Very pleased with the outcome thus far, its not perfect and has some gouges from the years but Im ok, gives it a small rat rod flair, and I didnt want it perfect. http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a325/Ghia109/?action=view&current=P1040748.jpg

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. #37210 07/27/07 10:14 PM 07/27/07 10:14 PM
Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 14 Virginia T tett member
tett member T Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 14 Virginia	Calling on the wisdom of Marq, Charger, or whomever... On my test panel, I am using Rusto and am to the point that the formerly brown panel is now definitely red. Paint is thin, following the "roll it in the pan" to squeeze excess off before "wetting" the panel with paint. That seems to work very well for me as far as getting the paint to flow out so I don't get roller marks. But, the paint is drying with a more matte finish, it's not glossy like it would be if I brushed it on very thick and just left it to dry, brush marks and all (It's glossier from where it drips down the side of the can than it is on my test door). My theory is that I still don't have enough layers of paint so either 1. I just need more thickness for it to gloss or 2. I am still seeing the matte finish from where I wetsanded the coat below it. What say those with more experience? Last edited by tett; 07/27/07 10:59 PM.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. #37211 07/27/07 11:42 PM 07/27/07 11:42 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Umm have anyone or you guys heard of the Meguiars SOLO system? What are your thoughts about it? It is for freshly painted cars -- for bodyshops. I just finished painting maybe 2 months ago...Can I still use it?

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: tett] #37212 07/27/07 11:56 PM 07/27/07 11:56 PM
Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada Marq mopar addict
Marq mopar addict Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada	Quote: Calling on the wisdom of Marq, Charger, or whomever... On my test panel, I am using Rusto and am to the point that the formerly brown panel is now definitely red. My theory is that I still don't have enough layers of paint so either 1. I just need more thickness for it to gloss or 2. I am still seeing the matte finish from where I wetsanded the coat below it. What say those with more experience? Ok... so I will make an assumption that you are using the Rustoleum with just pure Mineral Spirits. It does sound somewhat odd to be getting a matte finish when each coat dries. My first thought is that you may need to use less mineral spirit and not cut the paint so thin. IF the paint is being overly thinned... it may be presenting the paint with a problem creating a sufficient surface tension of the paint to form a uniform and complete skin as it is curing. So by using a higher percentage of paint and less mineral spirit it should allow the paint to get enough paint to form a smooth skin. And that would give it more of a glossy look to the surface of the paint coating. The fact that you mention the paint looks glossier where it has run... or when slapped on with a brush tends to support the idea that more paint and less mineral spirits should get more of a gloss to each coating and eliminate the matte you are experiencing. Thinking outside the box for a moment... I am not sure if the Rustoleum is available in a flat red. I believe the reds only come in a gloss. I know that they do sell a flat black. Hopefully the red Rustoleum you are using is a 'red'. One experiment you might try... is to take some of the red straight from the can and roll it ( without any mineral spirits ) on to a test piece. Let it dry and see if that test patch has a gloss or shine to it when it dries.... What I would be testing for with this experiment is to ensure that the paint itself is working the way it is suppose to. For example... I don't know how the paint might turn out if it was a particular OLD can of paint... and the chemical composition had somehow changed over the long period of time it might have been sitting in the can. Or similarly.... I don't know what might happen to the can of paint IF it had been exposed to some extreme heat or cold prior to it arriving on the store shelf when you bought it. Or as yet another odd scenario... I don't know what might happen with how the paint performs if the contents in the can had separated while on the shelf. If the straight paint patch dried with a shine then you could just ignore these possible speculations for why the paint itself might be to blame... In theory... the more layers of paint that you add... the more pigment and solids that will be laid down. The accumulation of the pigments and solids build up the uniform color and the possible glossiness of the outer skin of paint. So a little matte might be possible on the first, second or third coat... but most folks tend to see some hint of a shine or gloss right from the first coat... Thats a few fast thoughts or why you might be getting a matte finish with your layers of paint. Marq . Last edited by Marq; 07/28/07 12:01 AM.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Marq] #37213 07/28/07 07:48 AM 07/28/07 07:48 AM
Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 14 Virginia T tett member
tett member T Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 14 Virginia	Thanks Marq, Your theory holds well with what I was thinking was a good possibility for my matte finish. It is Rusto Red with mineral spirits. Further, on previous coats I didn't thin at all and got a glossy but very orange peeled finish. Of course, I had to sand like crazy to put on the next coat. So, I believe the paint is behaving as it is supposed to. I may have it too thin. I didn't get roller marks at all. I'll keep playing. Thanks.

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