Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 25 of 167 1 2 23 24 25 26 27 166 167
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Marq] #36794
06/18/07 08:18 AM
06/18/07 08:18 AM

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A



Hey Guys, Finally, today's the big day for the old Probe. We got all of the prep work done yesterday evening and this morning the first coat goes on. I won't bore you all with a bunch of progress pics but I should have some finished pics at the end of the week.

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: Marq] #36795
06/18/07 09:06 AM
06/18/07 09:06 AM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 756
North Florida
R
RebelDart Offline
super street
RebelDart  Offline
super street
R

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 756
North Florida
Don't know if I can thin w/mineral spirits - I know the epoxies can be thinned with acetone and acetone disolves foam of any kind like acid (ever pour acetone into a styrofpam cup ? Pours straight through the bottom !) As far as the 2K, I want a high build anyway, 3-4 or more heavy coats, enough to block sand it out straight. My assumption is regardless how uneven the finish is, if there's onough material to block down straight, I get the same results as spray.

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: RebelDart] #36796
06/18/07 09:17 AM
06/18/07 09:17 AM

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A



Crazy amounts of peel. I thinned but it's just the weather/paint combination. Anyway here is brightside sapphire blue..

http://novaslp.net/pics/painting/img_0897.jpg

http://novaslp.net/pics/painting/img_0898.jpg



I have 4 coats on. I think I will do 2 more then hopefully I'll be able to wet sand out the peel and polish without having to add anymore paint.

This is so much harder to work with then largo blue was unthinned.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Gusteve] #36797
06/18/07 11:14 AM
06/18/07 11:14 AM
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 34
socal
S
s4dustin Offline
member
s4dustin  Offline
member
S

Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 34
socal
Quote:

Quote:

A possible whacky side effect is that the carrier being drawn into the bondo may in fact work to soften the bondo. And when the paint layer dries, the carrier trapped down in the bondo will not be able to rise and easily evaporate through the skin of the paint. It may cause sort of a blister type effect as the gas evaporating from the bondo and gets trapped under the paint skin.




Argh - didn't think about that.......

Thanks for your input. I think I'll wait a few days before I try and prime the bondo areas or try and do any more coats.

The bondo is mainly a skim coat in the areas where I had to use it, so hopefully that will lessen the potential effect you referred to.

I new it would be easier to cover if I primed it, I just got overanxious since I finally had some time and the weather was co-operating.

After pulling the car outside in the sun I found a whole bunch of minor prep areas that need to be addressed, so I just need to back down and take my time and do it right.

But overall - this is still AWESOME!

Thanks again.





I am going to colorsand with 1000 grit, how far down do i want to take it?

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) #36798
06/18/07 12:06 PM
06/18/07 12:06 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq Offline
mopar addict
Marq  Offline
mopar addict

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Quote:

Crazy amounts of peel. I thinned but it's just the weather/paint combination. Anyway here is brightside sapphire blue..

I have 4 coats on. I think I will do 2 more then hopefully I'll be able to wet sand out the peel and polish without having to add anymore paint.






The Sapphire blue is a gorgeous color.

I think what you might consider is this.... take out some 800 grit sandpaper and wetsand the orange peel out before adding any more coats. The let the wetsanded project dry for a couple of days ( upto 7 just to be absolutely certain it has cured ). Then proceed with your two final coats.

The idea being that if you can nail the orange peel at this point.. then hopefully the next two coats of paint will lay down smooth and glossy with little or no peel. Then you would only have to finish off the wetsanding using a 1500 or 2000 grit.

The problem with waiting til the final coat of paint to try to knock back the orange peel, is that you have to imagine the orange peel as looking something like this :

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

When you are doing that final wetsanding you are just knocking the caps off the top part of the A and trying to get the peaks knocked down so that the overall surface is equal to the majority or average of all the valleys.

If you just add more paint onto the peel... it will simply raise the valleys and the peaks together. Sadly it doesn't just fill in the valleys....

So if you knock it all down to one peakless surface... the next two coats of paint will stand a better chance of not exhibiting the peel effect and give you a shinier and smoother surface that won't need as much final wetsanding.

One other thing that you may have picked up from reading this thread... is when guys have had to knock back orange peel at the final stage of their paint job... sometimes they find variations in color because when knocking back the peel it may result in three different layers showing.

So by nailing the peel prior to the final two coats of paint, you will also reduce the chances of that happening during the final wetsanding and polishing.

.

Last edited by Marq; 06/18/07 12:09 PM.
Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: Marq] #36799
06/18/07 12:12 PM
06/18/07 12:12 PM

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A



Anyways my 93 civic is almost done! today technically was my 7th coat (minus wetsanding factor). I wetsanded everything down with 800 grit and then 2000grit.

We applied our first un-thinned coat today and have like half a quart left. Looks really good, very glossy and even distribution of paint. We have to fix some areas where we rolled over too much. But hardly any bubbles. You just have to roll fast so it doesn't dry up and let air do its work to dissipate the bubbles.

Pics after I am done with it within another day or so.

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: RebelDart] #36800
06/18/07 12:19 PM
06/18/07 12:19 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq Offline
mopar addict
Marq  Offline
mopar addict

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Quote:



Don't know if I can thin w/mineral spirits - I know the epoxies can be thinned with acetone and acetone disolves foam of any kind like acid (ever pour acetone into a styrofpam cup ? Pours straight through the bottom !)






To be honest... I am not exactly sure either.

Acetone is basically an evaporative carrier.... much the same as mineral spirits or Interlux's 333.

I don't know if the epoxy based paint or primer would have an adverse effect chemically when mixed.

I do know that the key different between acetone and mineral spirit, when looking at it strictly as an evaporative carrier...is that acetone evaporates much more quickly then mineral spirits.

In normal circumstances... the ideal situation for the roller painting is to slow the evaporation of the carrier and paint sufficiently so that it has time to fully self level before the curing takes hold. This extra bit of working time allows you to work the paint... and for bubbles to self pop or be receptive to popping and not reforming.

You might want to solve the mystery by simply trying a test where you make a little sample of the epoxy with acetone and another with mineral spirit.. and apply them both on some scrap metal surface...

The voice in the back of my head says that the mineral spirit should work. But by doing a test sample you can assure yourself of whether it is viable or not.

One good thing is that the vapors released by the mineral spirits are not as nasty or concentrated as those released by the acetone.

.

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: Marq] #36801
06/18/07 12:41 PM
06/18/07 12:41 PM

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A



Marq thanks for the advice!

I'll take some 800 grit to it tonight. I have complete coverage in all areas by about one coat.. As long as I go lightly when I sand I think I'll be okay and won't cut through the paint. The paint is really thin even with 4 coats at this point.

Would you wet sand (or dry sand) 800 grit? I've been wet sanding lightly every 2 coats so it's due for a sanding really. My first wet sand was 600 grit.

I still have to go and find the post you made for me sometime last fall about how to polish. I have to go and purchase the pads for my porter cable.

Perhaps I can convince friends to come help sand tonight for a few beers... *grin*

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) #36802
06/18/07 02:19 PM
06/18/07 02:19 PM

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A



nova1313 the sapphire blue looks great. its was a hard decision between sapphire and ocean for me. get up some more pics of that car when it get it finished.

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) #36803
06/18/07 02:25 PM
06/18/07 02:25 PM

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A



Just don't go with largo blue It was that color before and it looked like a smurf

Largo Blue Eclipse Spyder

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) #36804
06/18/07 03:12 PM
06/18/07 03:12 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq Offline
mopar addict
Marq  Offline
mopar addict

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Quote:

Marq thanks for the advice!

Would you wet sand (or dry sand) 800 grit? I've been wet sanding lightly every 2 coats so it's due for a sanding really. My first wet sand was 600 grit.






I would be tempted to wet hand sand at 800 grit at this point. You will be able to judge how smooth things are going as you rinse off the debris or sludge during the wet sanding.

Also... I find that when you are wetsanding your hands can begin to automatically detect when you have things nicely smoothed by how easily the sandpaper glides over the wet surface.

It is sort of like driving a car and once you reach a certain speed... you don't bother looking at your speedometer because you are judging your speed by the sound of your exhaust...

I guess with this roller project that is where it becomes very Star Wars like... " let yourself feel the force... let it become you... and the force will be with you ". Same goes for wet sanding the orange peel at this particulr point in your project...

.

Last edited by Marq; 06/18/07 03:14 PM.
Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: Marq] #36805
06/18/07 03:44 PM
06/18/07 03:44 PM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 49
Maine
B
Blackstone Offline
member
Blackstone  Offline
member
B

Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 49
Maine
I'm going for it. My weapon of choice... Top Secret TS-4 urethane-reinforced with their thinner. When asked what I used for paint, "That's Top Secret" will sound better than "I rolled it with boat paint".

Since I've never painted, I didn't really want to be the first to try a product but this project will likely take about a year to complete. I should be able to get in a lot of practice in the meantime. I ordered two of the Harbor Freight rechargeable spray cans to jam everything out while the truck is apart. While I await my Top Secret order, I've been practicing rolling Rusto black on my lawn tractor and I have my truck's old fenders for honing my rolling skills with the marine paint once it arrives.

I'm anxious to see the final Petitt Camaro results. I believe it's a similar paint to what I'll be using. Wish me luck.

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: Blackstone] #36806
06/18/07 05:19 PM
06/18/07 05:19 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,660
Flint, MI
Gusteve Offline
I Love the Unicorn Song!!
Gusteve  Offline
I Love the Unicorn Song!!

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,660
Flint, MI
Quick prep question:

I've rolled on the first couple coats, and now see some areas that might require bondo touch up.

Most of them are small - like the size of a quarter or less. Can I just rough up the area with maybe 400 grit and bondo over the paint or do I need to sand back down to primer or to bare metal?

Or just re-prime it and bondo over the primer?

Thanks!

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: Blackstone] #36807
06/18/07 05:50 PM
06/18/07 05:50 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq Offline
mopar addict
Marq  Offline
mopar addict

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Quote:



I'm going for it. My weapon of choice... Top Secret TS-4 urethane-reinforced with their thinner. When asked what I used for paint, "That's Top Secret" will sound better than "I rolled it with boat paint".

I'm anxious to see the final Petitt Camaro results. I believe it's a similar paint to what I'll be using. Wish me luck.






From everything I have read about the 'Top Secret' paint... I think you should have excellent results. And the fact that they have such a huge color palette to choose from is a wonderful bonus.

And possibly your results will present a very viable polyurathane alternative to the Brightside... Good luck.

.

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: Gusteve] #36808
06/18/07 06:00 PM
06/18/07 06:00 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq Offline
mopar addict
Marq  Offline
mopar addict

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Quote:

Quick prep question:

I've rolled on the first couple coats, and now see some areas that might require bondo touch up.

Most of them are small - like the size of a quarter or less. Can I just rough up the area with maybe 400 grit and bondo over the paint or do I need to sand back down to primer or to bare metal?

Or just re-prime it and bondo over the primer?

Thanks!




I have heard some folks who have been successful at just scuffing up the paint... laying on the bondo and then working the surface level ( feathering it into the other layers ) and then priming it. BUT that was fully hardened and cured paint.

My fear with relatively fresh paint is that if you simply scuff it up and smear on a spread of bondo over the area to be worked... the catalyst in the bondo will soften the paint - cause it to curl up ( forming an look like elephant skin ) or that it will deactivate the adhesion of the old paint to the lower sub-surface.

So for myself.. I would tend to sand the area to be bondo'd down to at least the primer layer below the paint. But it wouldn't hurt to take it to the metal below the primer. At least this way you will know that it has as good as a chance at adhesion as you can give it.

Nothing could be worst then to reach the final polishing and waxing of a lovely paint job and then find one of these previously worked areas is separating and pulling away from the body - with the paint skin being the only thing 'temporarily' holding it in place.

I say temporarily... because I think we have all seen where paint separates or loses its adhesion and blisters off the car or whatever was being painted.

.

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: Marq] #36809
06/18/07 06:40 PM
06/18/07 06:40 PM

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A



Hello folks,

Just wanted to share with you my (technically without factoring in wetsanding) 7th coat today. At this point in time this was done with a little less than 1 quart of Interlux Brightside Black remaining. I was scared we were gonna run out, but we should be able to have enough for 1 more total coat un-thinned plus some leftover for touch-ups.

Here is what we did today. All panels EXCEPT bumpers were put on un-thinned. So I was expecting better gloss and BOY OH BOY, more gloss was really there!






Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: Marq] #36810
06/18/07 08:39 PM
06/18/07 08:39 PM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 49
Maine
B
Blackstone Offline
member
Blackstone  Offline
member
B

Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 49
Maine
Quote:

Quote:



I'm going for it. My weapon of choice... Top Secret TS-4 urethane-reinforced with their thinner. When asked what I used for paint, "That's Top Secret" will sound better than "I rolled it with boat paint".

I'm anxious to see the final Petitt Camaro results. I believe it's a similar paint to what I'll be using. Wish me luck.






From everything I have read about the 'Top Secret' paint... I think you should have excellent results. And the fact that they have such a huge color palette to choose from is a wonderful bonus.

And possibly your results will present a very viable polyurathane alternative to the Brightside... Good luck.

.




Thanks. The color selection was the deal-maker for me. I tried out Rustoleum's "Catepillar Yellow" farm implement paint first because it was available in spray bomb and can, but it was too bright... kinda school-bussy, so I settled on Top Secret "Retreat" because it was as close as I'll probably get to "Grey Poupon" Yellow and I've seen incredible results from the marine paints thus far. Here's what I'm starting with...



Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) [Re: Marq] #36811
06/18/07 09:57 PM
06/18/07 09:57 PM

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A



Marq, I wet sanded the entire car (about 3 hours worth) with 800 grit. It was 95% no peel uniform surface I'd say.. I then went and washed it off and then let it sun dry. Surface looked excellent.

I rolled another coat thinned about 40% mineral spirits. It went on so smooth. At this point for 5 coats I've used 1 and 3/4 quarts of brightside. I still have a 1/4 quart left for a coat tomorrow and then a full quart to do jams and touch up's.

I must thank you again though you saved my finish! The car looks like a glassy very glossy surface again! I'm so excited to do the next coat and then reassemble most of the trim! I'll take pictures when done.

Re: Epoxies and 2K's - can I roll ? (long) #36812
06/18/07 11:48 PM
06/18/07 11:48 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq Offline
mopar addict
Marq  Offline
mopar addict

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Quote:

Marq, I wet sanded the entire car (about 3 hours worth) with 800 grit. It was 95% no peel uniform surface I'd say.. I then went and washed it off and then let it sun dry. Surface looked excellent.

I rolled another coat thinned about 40% mineral spirits. It went on so smooth. At this point for 5 coats I've used 1 and 3/4 quarts of brightside. I still have a 1/4 quart left for a coat tomorrow and then a full quart to do jams and touch up's.

I must thank you again though you saved my finish! The car looks like a glassy very glossy surface again! I'm so excited to do the next coat and then reassemble most of the trim! I'll take pictures when done.




Do me a favor and give this latest coat a couple of extra days of drying time to fully cure before laying on the next final coat.

If you want you could try a 2000 wet sanding on this current glossy coat. Just lightly pass the wet sanding... pretending that you are like a hovercraft just floating over the wetted surface.

This will take out any little surface imperfections prior to the next and hopefully final glossy coat.

I am offering up this suggestion to maximize the chances that the next layer of paint won't do anything adverse to the present 'pretty layer'.

The smoother the surface that the paint goes on... the glossier and deeper the shine...

Good luck.

.

Last edited by Marq; 06/18/07 11:57 PM.
paint stuff [Re: Marq] #36813
06/19/07 12:11 AM
06/19/07 12:11 AM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
toronto, ohio
A
andyoucankeepit Offline
member
andyoucankeepit  Offline
member
A

Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
toronto, ohio
so you get the brightside paint at boat places?
and you cant roll aluminum because you cant wetsand it, but can it be sprayed?
anyone testing with clears over this paint yet?
the rustoleum clear only comes in spray cans right?


03 cobra, 85 mustang, 59 galaxie, 68 sportster
Page 25 of 167 1 2 23 24 25 26 27 166 167






Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1