Ok got my new 418 motor in have made 15 passes
2 different tracks .My buddy was watching from the stands and says it sounds like its just winding through the gear changes.He thinks im blowing through the convertor stall on the gear changes .I'm leaving at 4000 shifting 6600 traps 6800.Others say we should tighten my 8"turbo action if its stalling above 5400 or more.Anybody run 9" on 418s ?
ets are 10.25s 128 mph 1.39 60ft
ets are 6.40s 105 mph 1.39 60ft
looking to get to 10.0s 9.90s
motor should have it
callie 4.00
stx22 590 w 1.6 625 lift
ported eddies
victor 340 2" spacer
12.7 commpression probe pistons
727
4.30 gear
3040 w/me
950 alky
thanks don

There allways seems to be different opinions on this, as with most converter questions, but it is the RPM you drop to when you shift to drive, whatever the tach drops to at the shift is the stall.

Not trying to argue, but that doesn't sound right. You're telling me that when I drop into drive from neutral, the rpm it level's out to is my stall? So my 3000 stall convertor is really +/- 950? Maybe I misunderstood you.

If you run a transbrake....

Take out the two step chip, hold the trans brake button and hit the pedal to the floor quickly.

Look at the tach for the stall.

Yes 70ARRcuda, that is what I meant, guess I wasn't clear, but its the drop to RPM at the shift, if you have a manual valve body it can be checked by flooring the accellerator in high gear at a slow speed also, then it's what the tach jumps to as soon as you floor it.

drop your shift point and see what happens. I doubt your blowing through the converter. did you give accurate info when ordering it?

another way to check stall is to roll along in 3rd gear about 10mph and mat it for a second. see what it does.

For gods sake do the testing where you have alot of room and no cars anywhere close. A buddy of mine was doing the Tranz Brake test in his drive way and ended up in the neihbors yard after he ran thur there bushes.

Autometer recording tach. Dump to laptop. Look at graph. See where convertor locked up on launch and where rpms fell back to after shift.

I haven't taken the time to get the program and run it all through to a printer. But I have learned a LOT through my Autometer playback tach. When playing it back, I write down the launch rpm, converter flash, shift points and rpm drops. The numbers you "think" you are getting by watching it while making a run are not what they actually are.
Autometer

Taken from the ATI web site
"Q: How do I determine my stall speed - is it different than flash?
A: In order to check your torque converter’s stall speed, put your vehicle in high gear and drive the car at 1 to 2 miles per hour. Push the gas pedal to the floor and note your flash on the torque. This is the same as your stall speed. DO NOT DO STALL TESTS ON CARS EQUIPPED WITH TRANSBRAKES. When speaking with your ATI sales rep or distributor, be as succinct as possible regarding stall speed and your converter. To converter builders, stall speed and flash mean the same thing. If you ask for 4500 stall, this means if you flash your converter from idle, it should go to approximately 4500 rpm. For example, a 4500 torque converter in your car will probably only footbrake to 3000 rpm before moving your car depending on the quality of your brakes. Furnishing as much information as possible to your sales rep ensures that you get the correct product you are looking for.



Q: Should I do a stall test?
A: No!! ATI strongly recommends that you do not conduct stall tests. Stall tests break parts, and not just converter and transmission parts. Remember, you are at Wide-Open Throttle (full power) and maximum load. The pistons, pins, rods, and crank will really take a beating.

Many racers ask why it is okay to leave the line at Wide-Open throttle, but not okay to do stall tests. The difference is this – when at the starting line at wide-open throttle, you release the brake and the RPMs accelerate from that point. In the converter, the stator is locked via the clutch assembly (sprag) and goes from maximum load in a controlled constant reduction in force to zero load (free wheel) as the car accelerates. The hydraulic forces in the converter are directed in a smooth and efficient manner for maximum torque multiplication and flow for adequate cooling. When performing a stall test at wide-open throttle (or even with a rev limiter such as the MSD Two-Step), you lift off the throttle and the RPMs, now at 5,000 or 6,000, get jerked down to idle. The stator and clutch assembly goes from maximum load and torque multiplication to zero load in an instant. The clutch is unloaded rapidly and the hydraulic forces are instantly disrupted into unknown flow paths due to the rapid reduction in torque.

We have seen many converters damaged by this rapid unloading when a ring and pinion, planetary gear set, or input shaft fail. The rampant hydraulic pressure actually breaks the pump blades (fins) completely off the converter pump.

It is for this reason that converter manufacturers have for years warned against “snagging the slicks” coming out of the water as RPMs can go from 5,000 or 6,000 to an idle as the tires catch. Once again, damage can be done to the sprag assembly. Also remember that the converter builds up a tremendous amount of heat in a short period of time. By not running an engine after a stall test, all that heated fluid lays in the converter without having a chance to go through the cooler. Excessive heat eventually “fatigues” the metals in the converter.

So, just say no to stall tests. They damage parts. Use the transbrake ON THE STARTING LINE ONLY – not in the pits, not in the driveway, not for your burnouts – AT THE STARTING LINE ONLY! Your cost per run will diminish significantly."

I thank that there is a lot of confusion on stall speed versus flash stall versus rpm drop on gear change. I look at foot stall RPM, flash stall RPM in first gear and RPM drop on the gear change, both 1st and 2nd gears before making a decsision on changing or modifying that converter.If you do the math on that converters slippage at the finish line and it is less than 10% it is probally not blowing threw the converter. The first Art Carr "race" 8 inch converter we bought would foot stall over 4000 RPM, flash to 7000 rpm and then drop back to 6000 RPM, I shifted it at 7000 RPM and it would drop back to 6000 RPM. That converter was 3 to 4 MPH slower and .3 to .38 slower ET in the 1/4 than the stock 11 inch street Hemi converter that came in the car A real POS I had a TCI 8 inch like that also, Munsinger fixed thatr one after two tries

Trust me take ultimatelenny's advice,he builds some of the best converters out there i know..