I hear the distributor drive bushings are supposed to be installed and burnished with a special tool. I have my 440 out right now for a backyard type refresh and I did buy a new distributor shaft bushing. I have no reason to believe mine really needs replacing but seeing as I'm in there anyway are there any reasonable backyard ways of installing the bushing without wrecking it or should I just leave my original bushing in there?

I replaced the one in the 318 in my Power Wagon in my back yard. just used a piece of brass to tap it in. Piece of cake.

Don't replace it if you don't have reason to.

the last one I did on my sb,I just drove in with the oil pump shaft with the cam not in

then I installed the cam

dealer said no need to burnish them any more as the bushing has been changed to not need it

I was always told if it does not come out with the drive its fine and dont change it

I changed mine cause it came with the core plug kit

I have had no trouble so far

If it's got the aluminum bushing, I'd replace it for sure. They are usually wallowed out.

On a BB, you can use an old oil pump drive to drive the bushing into the hole. This keeps the bushing from distorting and needing to be reamed. Done many motor this way and never had a problem.

some thing that the center hole was bigger and when drove in the block it squeezes the center hole to the right size

not saying its correct..just saying thats what the counter man said

I use the oil drive to drive them in also and never had a problem

Having done probably 25 or 30 of these bushings myself, I can tell you that I've only had to burnish probably 8 or so.
They're usually pretty good....the one's that need burnishing WILL be noticably tight....so tight that the shaft will not go thru it unless you tap it vigorously. That's way too tight.
Most dealers have the tool....just be prepared to contribute to the "Coffee Fund"!!

I don't see a problem with the drive shaft installation technique, if the shaft turns easily by hand after the bushing installation.

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dealer said no need to burnish them any more as the bushing has been changed to not need it

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I just did a dakota with mopar bushing and shaft and it had to be burnished.

I've driven in 5 or 6 and never had a problem.
Arno

The shop that did my 440 didn't burnish. I had to take the engine apart for another reason and found the drive shaft scored and the bushing so loose it was almost spinning. I got a new bushing, new driveshaft and borrowed the burnish tool from a friendly dodge dealer. I had a near miss. I'd never do it or let it be done without the burnish tool again.

Get rid of the aluminum and use the bronze bushing. It can be driven in as previously mentioned or "pulled" in. I use an old distributor drive as a pilot when I drive them in. I also have used a long piece of 3/8" all-thread with large washers and nuts on both ends. The nut on the bottom is used to draw(pull) it in.