Hey gang..
Well, I'm getting the Daytona out and about now. Something I've noticed is the high exhaust / engine compartment temperatures. I know running around in 100 degree Houston weather isn't helping much, but never had this with my '69 Charger 500. The left side has visual evidence in the white tube loops that hold the windshield washer tubing on the passenger side have melted. I'm thinking maybe it's a lean condition? I know Daytonas and Superbirds run characteristically hotter than other cars because of their restricted air flow into the radiator area. The carb that's on it now is a Edelbrock Competition series with electric choke and the ignition is Mopar Performance electronic. The engine is a 440 with 9.7 compression and is followed-up with a 727B.

Cheers,
Troy

Thanks..
Troy

Troy,....the 100 Degree outside temps don't help matters,.....you can eleviate some underhood temp by pulling off the K frame seal, unless your going for land speed records sometime soon, and with 4:10's....I don't think so .....and remove the rear cowl seal from under the hood,....check your timing, 10-12 BTDC initial should be fine, remember 4:10's with no overdrive is going to spool the RPM's up really quick,...More RPM's, more heat,.....I'd suggest you flush the radiator/ cooling system completely,...switch over to Zerex G-05 antifreeze, run a 50/50 mix with water, and add a 8 oz. bottle of Redline WaterWetter (Autozone),....safe for the system, you'll see a dramatic decrease in heat transmission/absorbtion underhood,......if you have a clutch fan, ditch it!, make sure all the internal nose seals are in place, running a shroud?,...have the foam radiator seals top and bottom in place?,....at idle you should be able to put a piece of typewriter/printer paper across the front grille screen, and have it stay there with no asistance, if it can't, you need to address the areas I mentioned to increase air suction through the nosecone




PS,...the mods need to change your avitar name, from the not so famous Hemi Charger to....Hmmmmm?

Troy I have the K frame seal, in 80 durometer rubber you'll need to procure the "speedo" lips that hold it in place,.....Patik sells the "original" style one that's very stiff, 100 durometer rubber you may find it hard to conform to the K frame?,........remove the rear cowl seal on the hood, that helps relieve underhood temps,.......the master lines for the wingcars using the inboard style can be a problem,.....I'd suggest a switch to dot4 ATE Blue racing brake fluid, premium fluid found at Porsche dealerships, some parts stores may carry it, $40 a quart about 550-580 boil point

If the engine is running that hot, you should notice the gauge reading being high.

Underhood temps have been high in diesels the last few years, it causes all sorts of problems like you are seeing.

You can get some cheaper DOT 4 fluid. The Porsche stuff may have a higher boiling point but I doubt for the money it is worth it value wise. All the DOT 4 fluids have a higher boiling point than the lower numbers so even a cheaper one will have better results than what you are running now.

Here's what I got...
Initially, I thought it was a lean condition for it was in the area of the exhaust manifolds. I took the plugs out this morning before Church and well, they look normal. So, it has to be coolant temperatures. She really belged up the coolant when we got there. As far as the components go, the radiator "Looks" fine, but who knows what's going on inside. The car probably doesn't have a lot of miles on her since the engine compartment was detailed with a new 440 back in '07. From my limited and recently expanding Daytona cranial database, I'm missing two seals. One is the obvious lower valance to k-member seal and the other is the passenger side vertical seal between the z-bar and radiator cowl.

Not knowing the condition of the radiator, I'm going to pull it and have it checked. Any of you wing fellas experience this before? I'm sure that's a stupid question. Also, the original clutch-style fan has been replaced with a direct fan from a previous owner.

Again, it got so hot under there, it melted the white tube loops and I believe caused the brake fluid to get rather hot....

OK, gotta get ready for Church........ I'd appreciate ya'll's experiences....

Troy

1: Passenger side with missing seal.


Troy

2: Driver's side with appropriate seals

3: Fan set-up currently in car.

I'd leave the solid fan in, although it isn't original, the Tona's recieved the clutch fan, later,....TSB's were later issused to dealers to replace cars with overheating problems with solid fans, including some Superbirds which saw some early cars built with clutch fans.......Like I said go with the Zerex G-05/waterwetter, and ATE Blue brake fluid, and fix the seals

Take the radiator to a shop and have it rodded out. Check thermostat for opening at correct temp.

a distributer not working correctly letting unburned fuel burn in the exhaust manifolds

Well, I have taken out the thermostat and all looks clean. Don't trust it since I didn't put it in and the car probably doesn't have a whole lot of miles since Jules did the motor. The radiator does look clean inside and it is a 4-core. Hopefully the seals from Mike at Dayclona will be in soon and I can tinker with it over the long weekend.

Troy

Remember to use distilled water with that coolant and it will help prevent mineral deposits and it is cheapo. The good Robert Shaw type thermostats have been tough to find --guess they are no longer--Mopar Perf had them but I noticed they changed over to the cheapos for that same part # Mopar RV engines always had a notice about using that good stat with a warning about over heating if you did not FWIW--I have more trouble out of thermostats these days than ever before--I check new ones before installing--lots of good threads here in the past about not drilling the little hole or for sure not making it very big--

Troy , is that a 7 blade fan ? If not you should probably get the correct mopar fixed 7 blade and also get rid of that parts store spacer .

The direct drive fan is different , if you can't find one local I have an extra , needs blasting and a paint job .

Here's the fan I have.. Not sure if it's original. I'm thinking not... I haven't owned a car with a regular fan in like, forever. Everything I've own has been a clutch fan. I changed out the thermostat and waiting on the missing seals for the cone. Hopefully this weekend I'll have more insight on the exact problem...