Anyone have an idea what the loud noise in the front of the engine might be caused by? It's a totally rebuilt 383 HP. Noise was apparent on initial start up but now is intermittent. It's a metallic clatter somewhat high pitched. Sometimes it occurs....sometimes not there at all! It is in the front of the engine only and is not in the rods or crank. Sometimes the noise is so bad I think the engine will destroy itself. The clatter speeds up when the RPM's speed up. Sometimes when I rev the engine up it goes away and reappears when the engine speed returns to idle. What have I got here?

Did you use an oil slinger? If so, are you sure the damper is pulled all the way in? Otherwise, it (the slinger) could be loose and moving around.

You might also put a timing light on it to see if the timing is steady.

Others will chime in to help.Did you install the chain slinger with a double row chain?What camshaft type,hydraulic,solid, new camshaft and lifters?Where the heads or block milled,and if so how much?

The engine was professonally rebuilt and the oil slinger was used, I saw it. The noise would be a sound like the flywheel teeth hitting on the dust cover (that's not what it is cause the noise is in the front only). The clickity clack noise speeds up when the engine RPM's speed up. Would the damper or slinger sound like a metal piece hitting annother metal piece and have consistency?

A brand new Chrysler hydraulic cam and lifters were installed. Neither the heads nor the block were milled. One suggestion was.....the new cam moving back and forth or the cam gear that meshes
with the intermediate shaft gear not meshing correctly. What do you guys think?

Did you see a double row chain being installed as well?Those slingers are famous for getting chewed up, most people do not re-install it on rebuild.It is a dangerous time right now as the slinger debri can end up in the sump and oil pick-up.

sound travels , I would still check the t/c bolts

I don't remember the chain installation. I do know the rebuilder ordered a stock chain to install. However, the noise does sound like a thin piece of metal hitting a toothed gear. What do you recommend? If that were the problem would the noise be constant or would it be intermittent?

Many people have encountered this scenario.I am not saying go and inspect right now.Wait for more poeple to offer advice before that so something simple may be eliminated.I have encountered this problem and it can make a mess real quick.I would advise that the slinger not be used,its benefit is marginal today as the quality of your replacement timing cover seal will be good.Ensure the harmonic balancer is seated and torqued correctly.

So you've heard of this same noise/problem before just as I've described? I'll have to pull the pan water pump, damper, timing cover to get the slinger off won't I?

Jim

Brother, I sure hope you used Loctite on the camshaft bolt's threads. If not, the bolt can back off, chain will wander into the timing chain and just guess how I learned this?

My stroker has a Lunati 3bolt hemi type cam and after learning the hard way with my 383 a few years ago, you bet I used Loctite on this engine.

I'm no expert but if the Thrust bearing has any play would the damper hit anything? Don't laugh, just asking...

Yes,as you have described the noise this problem has presented itself to a few poeple.Yes to the pump and cover but wait on the pan;it will depend on what you see when you sight the slinger.I got to mine just in time;before major debri ended up in the pan/pick-up.Wait for some further responces before you jump in.

I appreciate the input thus far. I'm standing by waiting for those further responses.

I was'nt aware of a thrust plate. What does it look like, where is it located and how do I check for the play you describe?

Check to make sure one or more of the crankshaft pulley bolts aren't too long as this will cause the bolt to rub against the timing cover. Don't ask me how I know this...

man personaly i wouldnt take a chance at guessing and just start tearing down. i know it sucks but having to rebuild your new 383 will be worse. if you are sure it is coming from the front just start unbolting. and i know how you feel dude its sucks having to work on them sometimes but it is part of hotroddin. especially when you just got through putting it together.

Can the timing chain cover be removed and replaced without removing the pan?

Jim

Quote: "I was'nt aware of a thrust plate. What does it look like, where is it located and how do I check for the play you describe?"

Me neither, But I was refering to the #3(?) main "Thrust" bearing. If there is substancial play, I wonder if this would result in the damper hitting(?) making noise? I know it's a longshot.

My experience with a thrust bearing with lotsa play was on a 4 speed challenger that I owned years ago (Formerly owned by Tom of Moparts fame; Hey, does that make it more valuable on this site as I here it's still somewhere in Conn...Red, R/T, 383...)

I hope i'm not pointing you in the wrong direction with my Thrust bearing thoughts, just trying to be helpful.

yes. just need a cam change gasket set which includes the timing cover gasket, front part of the oil pan gasket and the water pump housing gaskets. Pull the bolts one at a time and replace them snug to check. If that's not it you're probably going to need to pull the timing cover. If that's the case just unbolt the PS pump and move to the right, unbolt the alt. and move to the left. Unbolt WP housing and move to left without removing heater hoses and your there!