I have my motor back from the machine shop and they recommend using Valvoline Racing Oil. Is this just an old school choice? A Fram HP1 filter was also recommended because of the higher oil pressure I'll now have.
I don't want synthetic, so being not a race motor what are some good options? and should I be using a zinc additive? It has hydrolic lifters if that helps.
As far as the filter goes, I've been using the WIX, but not the racing one, is this still OK?
Jim

Use your wix filter and the Valvoline oil because of its high zinc content. With the valvoline you shouldn't need the additive but it won't hurt on breakin.

i would recommend lucas break in additive,http://www.buylucasoil.com/viewitem.asp?itemid=10063

10-30 Rotella. I have never cut open a HP Fram but the Extra Guard elements are crap. A Pure1, Wix, K&N, Mobil 1.

I have heard the HP still have the crap elements. I can see how they collapse. That won't happen with the Pure. The elemant and ends are held together with a rubbery type stuff. It i hard to pull apart. The Fram didn't have anything to hold the element in place.

Fram has gotten some very bad writeups for filters. napa gold/silver and wix had extremely good ratings. I also use valvoline racing oil ..20-50 for the high zinc in My 440 stroker motor. Been running this combo for over 7 years in two different motors and have had no problems.

Napa gold filters are wix and Valvoline VR1 racing oil is supposed to have plenty of zinc and is designed for flat tappet cams... Only negative is beside straight weights it only comes as 10-30 or 20-50....

Napa Gold is one of the best and what I use on my 496. I'm sold on the rotella T 15/40 or even the lucas oils 20/50.

I've got 75lbs psi at cold idle and minimum of 35 psi what really warmed up.

Careful on the Rotella now. It used to be formulated with zinc, but within the past year or two, it's been reformulated without as much zinc as the newer diesels don't need as much. I believe it no longer has the needed amount for our regular cams. You can tell which is the old stuff and which is the new as the new Rotella bottles have the reformulated logo in the upper left hand corner.

I run Brad Penn oil as it has the needed zinc. It's a partial synthetic that also only comes in 10-30 and 20-50. I run 10-30 on break-in with a break-in additive and 20-50 thereafter (in the summer months).

In the 440 using 10-40wt valvoline HD, and a bottle of the Hughes engines zinc additive for the valvetrain life.

In the 323" w/ 340 cam 9:1, I'm using 5-30wt what ever is on sale.

Both 4 speed cars with 3.23 gears. The 4 speeds use Redline manual trans fuild.

Thanks to all of the responses!
I'm having a hard time finding the Valvoline 10-30 racing oil. But, I'm still looking.
Jim

The CJ4 Shell Rotella T 5W40 full synthetic heavy duty motor oil is 1200 ppm zinc, confirmed by Shell via email. Don't know about their 15W40 dino oil, but I'd guess it's the same. Their CI4+ was 1400 ppm zinc. It's come down.

Don't go too thick, you can open up your bearing clearances. Use what is specified for your vehicle and what its used for.

Rotella really isn't a good choice. Neither is gear oil or mineral oil.

here is a app for oil selection

http://classic.valvoline.com/crmo/vehicle.asp

Use a additive product for the zinc content you want for flat hydraulic lifters.

Don't use the synthetics for engine oil. Great Lathe oil, drill press....

Last I heard Comp was telling people Rotella. Has that changed?

Don't use any of that crap in your engine. Find a place that has Brad Penn break in oil (its the green oil) and get yourself a Wix filter.

that link only goes back to 1980

and whats wrong with synethic oil?