A quick question:
572 wedge with the Jessel belt drive, I am going to replace the belt with a new one since the engine is apart. Do I need to degree the cam in again or can I simply slip the old belt off and if nothing moves install the new one?

theoretically you could do that. good luck on the "nothing moving" part though. every time i've tried that the cam ends up moving when the blt is taken off.
i'd say degree it in again just to be sure, it's better than bent valves.

yes your right,
maybe this would be the time to change the camshaft.
camshaft now installed is a Bullet:

duration @.050 285 in 288 ex
lobe lift .4765 .4765
separation 112
timing events @ .050 325 72.5 78 30
duration @ .020 316 319 ex.
Gross lift .715 .715 ex
valve lash hot .026 .026


bullet recommended this one below which we have.

duration @ .050 287 in 295 ex
lobe lift .4765 in .4500 ex
separation 112
timing events .050 35.5 71.5 83.5 31.5
duration @ .020 319 329ex
gross lift .715 in .675 ex.
valve lash hot .020in .022 ex
degree 108

what would I expect if I changed to the 2nd one?
14.8 compression
Indy heads flow .426
1150 dominator
2 1/8 header 4 in collector
fuel 118.
a lot of numbers I'm not real familiar with they are both rollers

Thanks

I don't think you would see any noticable difference, why a new belt if the motor only has 20 passes???

Thanks that's what I thought but I'm no expert!
Bullet just wanted to sell us another camshaft...
I didn't replace the belt when we built the engine last and it was used with who knows how may runs on it. IT should have been replaced then but didn't do it.

I would first measure then, move the existing cam ICL and lash before I made the change. Before you do that make sure you have adequate P to V. Aside from the added duration the second cam may have better dynamics which could make more power.

thanks for the reply.
could you please elaborate on what to measure and do?
I'm not familiar with the the abbreviation?
guess I could just install the new cam and see if any difference is made.

p/v means piston to valve clearance.Put some modeling clay about 1/4" thick in the valve pockets of a piston, add your gasket, mic the gasket, install your head and snug down. Add valve train, roll the engine over. If your come to a tight spot, stop and pull apart as you might be hitting the open valve. If not, roll it over till you come back to tdc. Pull head measure the clay at the thinnest spot. - the difference between non torqued and torqued gasket thickness. Thats you p/v clearance.

Sorry for the delay...I have not been on here since yesterday. With your last question and please don't take this wrong, I would get a PRO to do this work for you. It sounds like you have a nice engine and a significant $$$ investment. There are MANY things to consider before swapping a cam or even moving one around. There should be someone (engine builder) you can go to locally?

ok that,s what I thought and we did clearance the valves to piston had .050+ when installing the other cam when the engine was built.
abbreviation and acronyms can get a guy into trouble.. that's why I asked.
The fellow who built it is very good but things do go wrong and did with the head gaskets leaking.
I wish I could find a good engine builder close by but no luck and the engine is needing to come together by Friday- races Saturday.
I have degree d in camshafts but its been a long time. For now and with the lack of time I will have to bolt the heads back on once they are back from the machine shop. I have a ton of work to do at my "real job" and last weekend at the races I some how sprained my knee which adds to the fun it's swelled up like a balloon.
Ice has been my best friend lately
The Doc said to say off it for a week. Ha not a chance! He gave me a knee brace and meds for the pain.
I have a busy week ahead and it's half over already!
thanks for the advice.
I could not do this with out you guys
THANKS!