Evap has finally gotten to where it won't hold a charge but a couple days. Should I tackle this or let the pro's do this?

I did mine(2000) dakota. I spent 1/2 day one day, then 1/2 day the next. I used a tip from a dealer guy and took the coolant hoses off at the engine and dragged them through the firewall with the box. I dropped steering column onto drivers seat, disconnected the main dash harness under dash, pulled dash back enough to wrestle the box outta there, did have to dig through the foil insulation at firewall to remove a few screws on engine bay side. Wasn't as bad as I thought it was gonna be, but still kindof involved. The most irritating part to me was trying to re-clip the a/c lines at evap connection w/out ruining the very thing I was replacing.

Cool.

I had heard there's a special tool for those clips?

You can get a cheap one at the parts store.

REALLY depends on your capabilaties.
I'm not trying to scare you out of a job but it's not for the faint of heart.If you do it, Make sure to disconnect the battery BEFORE you remove anything then let it set about 20 minutes. this is a job that could easily blow the airbags if your not carefull.

Lots of brackets to remove,both a-pillar mouldings, upper dash applique, both kickpanels, wiring to dis-connect, drop the steering column, drain the cooling system and with light air pressure flush the coolant out of the heater core to prevent spillage on the interior floor/carpeting. No way I would drag the heater hoses in with it. you'll have enough to wrestle around without the hoses flopping around with it.

Well if it's anything like the one in my wifes 99 jeep it's a PITA. the entire dash has to come out. Cost around $1000 for that and the heater core. 8 hours of labor and well worth it.

Replace the heater core while you are there.I most times recommended changing the blower motor if it has lots of miles.Either one goes bad and you will be doing it again.Rocky