I had fel pro blues in my 416 sb with 12:1 static compression. I blew #4 into the lifter valley on Friday at Island Dragway. Do i go with the fel pro again and right it off to too much timing,,,, which I had just advanced a few degrees,,, or is there something else I should use? It has eddy heads. It was a hot day, 95 degrees, and I did make alot of passes, and I did throw some extra timing at it... I know I know,, a recipe for disaster... and the recipe worked. HA. How about head studs,, would that help any?

are you running the regular felpros or the performance ones I am running the felpro performance part # 1008 on a 416 with 12.8-1 timimng locked at 37 degrees and have had 0 problems so far.

i really like the edelbrock head gaskets. been on my engine for years

Quote:

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The number on the gasket itself is 8553PT with a R12 under it.

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8553PT is the standard Fel-Pro head gasket, which works
fine with iron head/iron block combinations.

1008 is designed for aluminum heads and more expensive.

No gasket will seal if either the the block or heads are
not machined flat. Studs will help.

BTW,

8553_________12.14 cc volume-.054" thick
1008_________8.77 cc volume-.039" thick

We have been using cometics for around 5 years , have some water seal issues but no chamber problems

And.......... I just pulled the other head and #3 is almost blown through....... So I'll be ordering studs and I'll have to choose a gasket.

Chris:

Good news and I guess I was right on the blown head gasket. Go with the 1008 or Cometics and don't look back.

Orange Sunshine Racing

At least it's not terminal. Oh,and a few passes!!! sounds like you ran the A-main

You will blow the head gaskets quicker with studs. Get ARP bolts. I have assembled a few sm mopars and the ones with studs blew head gaskets. I turned the studs between the threads to 7/16" and did not blow gaskets anymore. To much trouble to do that so I use ARP bolts and never a problem. Above 12to1 stay away from 1008 Felpro and Victor Nitroseal Head gaskets. Use Cometic MLS gaskets for 12 to 1 and up. 2 new and 2 used sets of ARP head studs for sm mopar 4sale



418sm block mopar--hand ported "587" junkyard heads--.590 flat tappet cam--flat top pistons above deck .08--13 to 1--NO NOS--3050lbs--9.68 at 135+--6.09 at 111--1.261 60ft--800+ runs on cometic gaskets and ARP bolts, if I could only get an oil pan to hold up

Dan, I'm not questioning your method as you must have found something
that solved a problem but, I'd like to understand how using a weaker
fastener works better. Only MLS or any head gasket?

If it works, it works but, I tend to doubt some things, if it doesn't make sense to me.

Stock stroke 340 and iron heads with 13.1:1 here........8553 and ARP studs. I
had fuel/pump issues most of the year with a good bit of detonation. No failures.
I realize, it doesn't make the same cylinder pressure as a bigger engine.

Thanks for your input.

1008 with Studs then retorque the heads on the first startup to 100lbs. then you will have no problem

Herb McCandless Jr

Studs were originally intended for engines that are assembled and disassembled frequently. To keep from destroying the threads. 1008 Felpro gaskets are supposed to be no-retorque. Who wants to start up an engine and then remove headers to retorque heads. I want to go racing. Last motor I used head studs on, stock stroke 360, customer had the studs so I used them [knowing I should'nt]. First outing head gaskets pushed into valley 3 places. Disassembled engine cleaned and reassembled engine with ARP head blots instead of studs and it's been 5 years and he still racing it. When I have used studs, I bottom tap block first, install studs untill they bottom out and then back out 1/2 turn, then install gasket and head and torque to 100ft lbs with moly in two steps 50/100.

I guess what ever works I am running 1008's with 12.8-1 with studs torqued to 100 lbs no retorque and no problems so far and I have been running the snot out of it.