Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: Pyper70]
#3229880
04/29/24 06:03 AM
04/29/24 06:03 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907 Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907
Athens, Greece
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I was today years old when i found out it's called swaging
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: Pyper70]
#3229897
04/29/24 07:52 AM
04/29/24 07:52 AM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,005 Apollo, PA.
B1MAXX
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,005
Apollo, PA.
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How can i make these flares for the fuel lines? I think i need to edit my fuel line because I'm running subframe connectors and i need to make a splice since i can't eat the pipe into place like factory. My flaring tool is for 37° conical breaker lives and i think doing that for fuel line with a rubber hose offer the connection is going to cut the line. I'm looking to make this type of connection below.
I already cut a 1/2" hole into my subframe and placed a pipe in to weld up and strengthen the passage. Also below Not exactly the same but i always just did the first step of a double flare, but not mashed completely.
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Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: Pyper70]
#3231728
05/08/24 12:13 PM
05/08/24 12:13 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,287 West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,287
West Coast, USA
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EFI is a sweet upgrade. Check out Marine electrical components. I find them to be of higher quality in general. West Marine is one of dozens of places that sell really cool relay and fusing components.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's 1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#3232259
05/12/24 06:30 AM
05/12/24 06:30 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907 Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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Athens, Greece
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What your doing in your part of the world must be very challenging and a lot harder "running out of those clamps" than doing the same conversion here in the U.S. Good on You You'd be amazed. Finding things that fit is a bit tough but i have some tools that i can modify parts. I found a few guys that i can call and we can source or fabricate what we need. Ordering parts takes about 3 months for large items. With a few guys that I know and what we're working on we usually put a summit order all together so it comes in one box and we only pay customs tariffs once. I wasn't happy with the vent tube. Looks something that backwoods guys would do. Got some black tubing meant for ether and made this below today. It's going to continue on towards the filler neck tube and I'm going to step it down to an 8 mm with a brass T and join it up to the factory vent. Trying to find time between work and social life to work on her. Tried locating 3/8" stainless fuel line which is daunting. I only need a 3' piece. Most guys here just run rubber tubing from front to back but that's cheesy to me. Great way for dry rot or worse...a rock
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: Pyper70]
#3232272
05/12/24 08:46 AM
05/12/24 08:46 AM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,299 nowhere
Sniper
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master
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,299
nowhere
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Tried locating 3/8" stainless fuel line which is daunting. I only need a 3' piece. Most guys here just run rubber tubing from front to back but that's cheesy to me. Great way for dry rot or worse...a rock Actually, stainless can be susceptible to work hardening, depends on the type. Which means a rubber hose could be more durable in the long run. https://www.cnccookbook.com/work-hardening-strain-hardening-machinists-guide/But proper mounting of the SS line fixes that concern.
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Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: Pyper70]
#3232314
05/12/24 12:40 PM
05/12/24 12:40 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,548 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,548
north of coder
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not trying to be a smart a$$, but if it were me, i would use fuel injection clamps on the plastic tubing on your tank instead of the worm clamps shown in the picture. those are a 360 degree clamp, would seal better, and wouldn't dig into the plastic line like the worm clamps shown could possibly do. just my opinion, so please don't take offense.
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Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: TJP]
#3232588
05/13/24 04:38 PM
05/13/24 04:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907 Athens, Greece
Pyper70
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Posts: 5,907
Athens, Greece
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A stainless guy HUH??? Ever heard of Swagelok fittings? they are far superior to the crap earls and oter supplier push off on people. Google them and BTW I happen to have a 50 ft. roll of 3/8, 316SS instrument grade tubing along with a good assortment of Swagelok fittings in various sizes up to 1/2 tube. Most are 3/8 with a few 1/4". PM me if interested as I no longer have a need for either. an example of the tube & fittings in the pic It sure is pretty but I live in Greece. I haven't driven my car since last November. I was the guy using bending tools and double flares with brass tees and NPT fittings. I bought the pre-bent 3/8" lines from inline tubing. I bought stainless clamps and those are going on. I bought insulated cable clamps. I wish i could call Summit and order things at random . I used to live down the street from Earl's and they would help me out. I have medical grade stainless on order through a friend as we speak and its $130 for 10 feet of tubing because I want to make some unforeseen bends because I forgot I had subframe connectors welded in. The wrap around hose clamps might be a nice addition. i will see if I can source them locally but every shop I have called forparts has told me "everyone just installs kevlar (or braided) fuel hose...just use that. Thats the hokey way. I like metal. As for the AN fittings, yeah, they are expensive. I just paid $200 bucks for 7 fittings so I can finish the job and hopefully get her on the road soon. Summer is here and I need to burn my wallet on fuel. The Swagelok fittings look nice. again, I live in Europe...I am just happy I found a place with Army Navy fittings 30min from my house. It took me 4 days of finding a swag tool so I can flare out the ends of the pipe and give the hose clamps something to prevent slipping off.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: moparx]
#3232589
05/13/24 04:40 PM
05/13/24 04:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907 Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907
Athens, Greece
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not trying to be a smart a$$, but if it were me, i would use fuel injection clamps on the plastic tubing on your tank instead of the worm clamps shown in the picture. those are a 360 degree clamp, would seal better, and wouldn't dig into the plastic line like the worm clamps shown could possibly do. just my opinion, so please don't take offense. it's just a vent tube. Nothing to be alarmed about. I heated up the ether tube and slipped it over. The one fitting is push-lok and doesn't need a clamp. What I did was overkill
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: Pyper70]
#3232615
05/13/24 06:44 PM
05/13/24 06:44 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,902 Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
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Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,902
Ontario, Canada
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I have medical grade stainless on order through a friend as we speak What's the point of "medical grade" ??
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Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: Stanton]
#3232627
05/13/24 07:42 PM
05/13/24 07:42 PM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,299 nowhere
Sniper
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I have medical grade stainless on order through a friend as we speak What's the point of "medical grade" ?? It's not cheap chinesium crap that'll rust.
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Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: Pyper70]
#3232748
05/14/24 12:30 PM
05/14/24 12:30 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,548 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,548
north of coder
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not trying to be a smart a$$, but if it were me, i would use fuel injection clamps on the plastic tubing on your tank instead of the worm clamps shown in the picture. those are a 360 degree clamp, would seal better, and wouldn't dig into the plastic line like the worm clamps shown could possibly do. just my opinion, so please don't take offense. it's just a vent tube. Nothing to be alarmed about. I heated up the ether tube and slipped it over. The one fitting is push-lok and doesn't need a clamp. What I did was overkill sorry for the confusion on my part.
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Re: Ride along with me on converting to EFI
[Re: moparx]
#3234946
05/25/24 05:50 PM
05/25/24 05:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907 Athens, Greece
Pyper70
OP
master
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907
Athens, Greece
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So I needed some extra AN fittings for my installation to make it a lot less painful. I'm lucky that even in Greece there is one shop that imports fittings from Australia. 30% higher cost but what are you going to do. I got the regulator installed on the frame rail up front underneath the number two cylinder as low as I could possibly get it. It's out of sight there's no gauge on it and it's there if I ever need to adjust it which is one of my questions in a little bit. I accidentally kinked my return pipe even though I was using the proper tool and I took it to a buddy of mine who cut it off and tigged on a new corner and then pressure tested it to 150 psi. From what tanks told me it's only going to need two or three PSI from the regulator. Instead of installing the slip-on fittings with a 4 inch long and 2 inch wide fuel filter I went ahead and put a 2inch -6AN stainless steel mesh filter right in front of the fuel tank and hooked it right up to the stainless pipes with two inches of rubber hose. I was getting iffy coming close to today because I had to start her up for a car show tomorrow. Spent all day doing electrical. Everything is grounded everything is soldered on with heat sink. Unfortunately one of the problems is that even with the new float style sending unit rated at 73-10 ohms it reads correctly at the sending unit but the gauge up front even though it was professionally rebuilt by Gentry at Auto instruments, with a full tank of fuel I'm only getting at most 3/4 on the gauge. The gauge has never been operated until Tuesday. I was using an Autometer fuel gauge and float and even that broke down. I ran another cable to replace the factory cable but I haven't installed it yet I'm expecting resistance on the copper. Maybe it's an old cable. I don't honestly remember if we replaced that cable when we restored her almost 25 years ago. Wow 25 years ago. That really makes you wonder. and I'm going to replace it eventually and hopefully I can get a full reading on my gauge. Under the good stuff I haven't started my charger since October. I turned the key and prime the system and saw the gauge on my supply of the Dual quads come up to 10 psi which I promptly lowered to 6.5 PSI. I turned the key for 2 seconds and she kicked right over. My mind is blown. I wish I did this upgrade years ago. I have killed two batteries in one month using a mechanical 120 GPH pump trying to get her started. Spraying fuel down the venturis, getting aggravated and walking away. And here I am 8 months later with two seconds of the key and she kicks over just amazed.
zeQuestion now
I took her out for a drive just now and even though I haven't hooked up my air fuel meter to my bung I can feel that there's a little bit decrease in performance. I'm guessing that's because of 6.5 PSI. Being that I have dual 500 edelbrocks and the 3/8 supply tube. Should I increase my PSI to 7.5 because I'm feeding two carburetors?
Last edited by Pyper70; 05/25/24 05:55 PM.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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