Thinking of doing something like the Hotchkis that tuck up well on my 69 GTX. It’s not a 1000 point car by any means, but is true enough for local shows. It’s an original metal car with factory AC. The trans doesn’t match. If I ever decide to move on, am I going to get blow back and lose buyers? I have to say I really don’t know as I usually have a car that it wouldn’t matter on. We’ve got a good core group of appraisers here so what’s the consensus?

I’ve installed them on Cuda’s. In hindsight it depends on how you drive the car. If you don’t drag race or even drive the car real hard, you’ll never notice on a hardtop car. But if you do, or thrash a convertible….

I think it is a great upgrade but I think you will shave off some of the more purist buyers. On the other hand, other people will likely appreciate the upgrade. My bet is that you would still find a buyer for the car fairly quickly at a fair price. The true restoration purist is tough on any car that is not "correct" and there is no shortage of people looking for a nice, solid muscle car.

If there's a sufficient chance that the car will be sold, the connectors that bolt in or weld in at their ends are easier to un-do.
The fully-welded type, not so much.
I've added them to a few cars, and noticed the increased rigidity even on the street.
I wouldn't add them to a mint original car, but in a case where the car's being raced, or where they're not too difficult to remove later, it's likely not a resale problem.
My restored RR has them, and I looked that over when I bought the car - which I then re-restored - and their presence didn't factor into my purchase.

It really depends on your buyer.

If your buyer is going to try to knock the price down because of a brake swap, electronic ignition or a non-exact OEM voltage regulator or pcv valve, they're
also going to have a huge problem with any kind of subframe connectors.

Is it a car fa little more for a purist or a little more for an enthusiast?
Primarily a show car and gentle cruiser, or primarily one to be driven hard or in any kind of competitive testing (whether drag race, autocross or whatever)?
A gentle cruiser that squawks the tires once in awhile doesn't really need anything.

If you really want to improve the handling, that is a good modification. Why not use a bolt in one? Those can be bolted in and/or welded. Easily removed and just a couple holes to seal up if you (or a future owner) wishes to remove it. I have a set and have two more on order from Magnum Force for my 1972 Charger and Duster. You can put them in at home and if you should remove them, you can resell them. No hacking up the floor pan or modifying stuff. They were made for guys like you that want a more original car.

https://www.magnumforce.com/tubular-subframe-connectors-b-body-mopar/p20

I put a set of welded in style on a 68 Charger I did. Owner and myself felt they were an upgrade do to all the metal that had been replaced.

IMO< unless you're racing the car. Leave them off on a stock normal type driver. You will never see / feel the benefit

I notice the flex in this car compared to my last rm21 that didn’t have sfc installed. I could tell the ones on my 71 Cuda were doing something for normal driving. It’s unnerving to go up my driveway that has a huge curb height. It sits in a curve and you take it at a 45. Just feels like the car flexes going up that and I don’t care for it. I doubt it does anything to the car, but it’s in my head. Really wanted a post car when I found this and couldn’t pass it up. It’s a pretty heavy car and it just doesn’t have the feel I want in sweeping turns. The ones I found go way up and I don’t think you’d see them when walking up to the car from a distance. Would be stealth for local shows. Would also be easy for my exhaust guy to do when I get the mufflers changed. He’s a gear head and will get it done without a fuss and really clean. It’s a hard excision for me as the car is all stock, but I’m getting ancy about dong some things my way. This is only thing that couldn’t be undone in a weekend.

I used a 2' by 2.5" box tubing ( at least I think thats the right size ) for this car. Welded in on both ends. That could be removed,,,, I guess. But not easily. Biggest advantage to box tubing is they don't follow the contour of the floorplan, thus making it much easier to deal with lines and park brake cables.

Chris , Im pretty sure this car will be at the Nats this summer if you want to see it in person , Car will probably have a for sale sign on it this year.

last year, i built and installed a set of subframe connectors on my 69 charger that i have owned since 1970.
i made them from 2x2x1/8" square tube, as i didn't want to cut the floor pan. however, every place the connectors touched the rear section of the floor, i welded them to it.
i believe it made a huge difference in the street feel of the car, even though it was just a set of "tiny" connectors.
i also welded any thing i thought "suspicious" while i was under there, so that probably helped as well.
just my experience. your mileage will vary.

I dont remember 100% the actual size of the tubing. But I know they were rectangular shape. And actually fit Over the rear frame stub . then welded them to the torsion bar crossmember up front.
But they didnt touch the floorpans at any point along the way . SO maybe they were 1.5 by 2.5 inch ?????

I wouldn't do it.

And it would take me off as a potantial buyer if it is a more genuine muscle car which has original sheetmetal.
I wouldn't want those on a more original car.

I had some of them, too but on a non numbers non collectible Mopar were it doesn't matter if you play with it.

Carsten