I have 2 vehicles here that could use new radiators. I've used Champion radiators before and had good results.
Problem is they don't have them listed for these 2 applications
I'm looking at eBay and there are tons. Don't have the money for something like "cold case" brand.
I don't want plastic tanks like stock. I'm looking at the all aluminum ones.
One is a 01 Durango with the 360 and the other is a 12 Dodge ram 1500 with a 4.7.
Problem with the 12 is most im seeing for that year truck are for a heavier (3/4-1 ton) with the Cummins
Besides that are there any particular ones to definitely stay away from?
I DON'T WANT A CHINA MADE PRODUCT. NO WAY NO HOW.
The most appealing one I see for the Durango has a 10 year warranty, the rest are only 1 year.
Does that equate to a better made product being they're willing to stand by it for that long?
Not that I will have either of these 10 years from now but all I am seeing are close enough in price for that not to be an issue.
Any brand recommendation either good or bad

I know its not what you want but I have used cheap rock auto rads in several vehicles and they are still working 10 years + One of them a 2001 durango 360 also.

i was going to say rock auto as well.
i bought all the ac parts and radiator for my wife's 94 concorde 10 years ago from the rock, and they are still working great !

I DON'T WANT A CHINA MADE PRODUCT. NO WAY NO HOW.


Good luck finding a USA made product. Does one even exist . I have my doubts the OE factory installed one was Made in the US

Though preferable, even if not made in USA there's gotta be something made somewhere better than China ..
I actually have a new stock style radiator for the Durango here but I have 2 Durangos. I recently warrantied the lifetime one that was in the 01 from O'Reilly's, (it puked it's trans and I'm not sure I got its trans cooler clean enough for the new trans) but I don't like the plastic/aluminum radiators everything has these days... I might put the new warrantied one in the 03 instead.
Hell, back when I replaced the one in the 78 fury all the local places wanted to sell me a Toyota -ish looking plastic/aluminum POS. That car got a champion radiator in it instead.
I tow with the 01 Durango (probably won't tow the same load with the 03 as it has the 4.7 but it takes the same radiator)
But I do tow the same camper with the 12 1/2 ton as I do with the 01. About 4500-5k lb. Strangely both are rated for the same amount as each other. (About 7k max for both) The Durango seems to do it a little more effortlessly though.
I've noticed lately the 1/2 ton is running a little warmer lately in the cooler weather than it used to in the heat of the summer.

I’m more than happy with my BeCool radiator.

Copper and brass radiators cool better than the same size aluminum one is what I have found
I swap Griffen 4 row cross flow copper and brass radiator to similar size little bigger all aluminum up right and the new one did cool better for one summer, the next summer I had to have it cleaned out by a radiator shop before it would cool good again like the previous summer

I completely agree about copper and brass being better than aluminum.
Which was why I refused to get a plastic/aluminum for my fury back when it needed a radiator due to being clogged gged beyond hope. Besides the plastic /aluminum looking so much out of place.
These applications that I am needing radiators for, never had a copper/ brass alternative available for them so both efficiency wise and durability wise all aluminum (tanks and all) would certainly be better than aluminum/plastic radiators.

Have you contacted Champion Radiator directly? They have more radiators then most outlets offer. When I called them direct, they suggested an off the shelf radiator that worked for my application, or they will modify an existing radiator or will make one specifically for your application. Obviously an off the shelf radiator is cheaper, but the modified price was not as bad as I expected it would be.

The biggest issue with the Dakota or Durango is the goofy top radiator mounting brackets Mopar chose to use. Those brackets come attached to the plastic tanks and are a pain to make in aluminum. If you are willing to modify the truck so you can get away from those goofy top brackets, you open the truck to a lot of options. The old way Chrysler mounted the radiators is still an option with a Dakota, you just have to drill a few holes and get a radiator of the proper width with the correct inlets and outlets.

Call Champion directly and get the real answer.

One thing i found about aftermarket radiators is they are not all the same. If you actually count the "rows" (cooling tubes) you will find the aftermarket doesn't have as many as will a stock radiator. As for the "rows" that run front to back you have to do your homework also. Some say 3 row but the "rows" are smaller than what you will find in a stock radiator. Do your homework before buying. You may want to try Northern Radiator they make radiators for just about everything. You can custom order what you need also.

Yeah I've seen 2 row and 3 row fie this application
I have a 3 row champion in my fury, they made an exact fit for that one.
The only thing I had a factory copper/brass 3 row in was my 83 D250. It had some kind of factory heavy cooling package in it according to the under hood sticker.

I have factory radiators in all my cars but one. I have a custom made aluminum radiator with 1" cores in one car with dual Derale electric fans and it runs cooler than all of my other cars on the street and makes more than twice the power of the other more stock style cars that I own.

The aluminum radiators that have been designed over the last few years have wider and thicker tubes in them. Its said that some of the tubes are 1" wide and nearly 1/8" thick. They say that the wider the tubes, the more efficient the cooling process is. They also say that adding more rows of the small tubes becomes less efficient with every extra row added past the standard 2 row radiator, a 4 row is not 2x as efficient as a 2 row is. it is just slightly better then a 3 row. Most of the existing aluminum radiators have not been updated to the modern tube designs.

So now the concept is to have two rows of offset wider and thicker tubes per core is as efficient as it can get. The wider and thicker tubes also greatly improves the strength and structural integrity of the aluminum radiators.

The technology for brass & copper radiators has not advanced since the early 60s when they were in their prime time, the only thing they have done with the brass and copper radiators is thin the material used in the production which lowered the strength of the brass & copper radiators. Modern wide, thick tube, 2 row aluminum radiators are more efficient then 4 core brass and copper radiators are, and cost less. If that aluminum radiator has a "furnace welded core" with no epoxy, it is a better quality radiator.

The place I was looking at on eBay is "dynamic radiator".
I got a reply from them this morning and yeah, freaking China.
Gonna get ahold of champion radiator and see what they have.
I remember when I did the fury I ended up calling them, at the time the newest B body listing I was seeing was 73-74.
My fury is a 78, so I thought B body to B body, yeah that'll work....
When I called they actually had a direct fit for my 78 and a bit cheaper than the one I was looking at that listed for a 74 charger.
Yet when we called for one for my sons 89 ramcharger they didn't have any. We got one for a 79 and the original 89 shroud wouldn't work even though the radiator bolted right up like it was made for the 89.

Very happy w/ my Griffin radiator. Not cheap, but a nice piece.

I hate to break it to you, but Champion Radiator are also Chinese. They have their own dedicated factories though, so that probably explains why their quality is better than most.

I bought one from Amazon made by "OzCoolingParts" bolted right into my 73 D200 and works great. I know you don't want a Chinese radiator, but other people who read this in the future might want to know that they seem to make decent radiators.