I have an a500 out of a 91 Dakota that I am considering putting into an 80s carbureted D150..
I've seen different things for that job over the years but haven't pd attention much since it didn't apply to any of my projects then. Not really looking to flip switches constantly. But also not looking for anything crazy hi tech. Staying carbureted, and if I change anything about what makes it run, I MIGHT swap out the 4 pin ignition box for either an HEI or possibly an msd type ignition. But probably not.
It runs plenty good with the factory 4 pin ignition.
What have you guys done to control the OD and lockup on one of these transmissions in something that never came with one

I've been running this for 10yrs, completely automatic, no manually flipping toggle switches.
Cost about $200, but I wanted something my daughter could jump in and drive.

The 518 (46RH) is hydraulically controlled and uses 2 solenoids to enable the OD and LU.
The 3-pin connector on the transmission supplies the control voltages.
The center pin always has 12V power connected. The 2 outer pins are switched grounds. The front pin is the OD ground, the rear pin is the LU ground.

The module works according to the following sequence.
1) The 12V toggle switch supplies voltage to the relays and transmission center pin.
2) When the hydraulic pressure trips (50mph/adjustable) the pressure switch, ground is supplied to the vacuum switch. When speed is below 50mph, hydraulic switch opens, disabling OD.
3) When there is enough vacuum, the vacuum switch closes, providing the OD relay ground. Under heavy acceleration, vacuum drops, opens switch, OD is disabled.
4) When OD relay has ground and 12V, it waits 10sec, then supplies 12V to the LU relay and ground to the transmission OD pin, enabling OD.
5) Now the LU relay has 12V, it's already grounded. It waits the 10 sec programmable delay then provides ground to the transmission LU pin. So lock up doesn't occur until OD has been enabled and on for 10sec.
6) The programmable delays for both relays fix the situation when speed is fluctuating around 50mph. This would normally cause the OD to kick on/off, the 10 sec (programmable) delay stops this from happening.

Less complicated way. https://transmissioncenter.net/shop...ere-for-727-to-46rh-swap-wiring-diagram/

I've run basically both of the above systems on an A500 in a '71 D100 with a mild 318 (PATC wiring diagram), and an A518 in my wife's '79 LRE with a 9.5:1 360 (delay timer). In both cases, I used adjustable pressure and vacuum switches to fine tune the system and didn't use a toggle switch at all. Running a vacuum and a pressure gauge into the cab and having someone drive it so you can record actual readings to get a starting point for settings helps, but it takes dialing in to take account of vacuum changes when OD and LU kick in. Both ran flawlessly for 10+ years before they were sold. Remember that 1 lb line pressure = 1 mph IN THE ORIGINAL VEHICLE. If the donor vehicle had a 3.08 gear and you're putting it in a truck with a 4.10, a 50 psi switch WILL NOT engage at 50 mph (that's why I used adjustable switches).

In a truck, mounting the OD trans is as simple as fabricating a new rear mount and shortening the driveshaft. On the LRE I picked up a slight vibration at certain speeds because I didn't match the u-joint angle when I did the new mount, (u-joints at the ends of a shaft should have similar angles) but an angled shim on the rear spring mounts solved it.

About 30 years ago I put a 518 in an 88 d100, mine originally had a 904/998/999 3 speed, but had the electric activated Lock up. I remember having to go junking for a cross member for a newer version of that truck. Also 88 was the first time you could get a 500/518 factory equipped in a D/W series trucks. so as I remember, I got the parts that were different from another truck and put them in mine but that 88 had that miserable TBI system,
my 85 is staying carbureted.
As I remember that 88 would have LU and OD kick in simultaneously. (Since I added it in, and wasn't factory equipped in that particular truck) I don't remember exactly how I did the wiring. But I know I didn't run anything thru a 5v anything, as newer ones run/ I used strictly 12v.
As I remember, that was already 30 years ago, I've slept since then.
Most I see for "kits" out there specify a certain speed for each to kick in. As we all know all driving situations aren't identical. So id rather have LU and OD kick in seperate, and not a time interval (one of the replies to my original request said "LU is 10 sec after OD kicks in" as an example) but I don't know if a set 44 mph or 50 mph is right for all situations either. Id like to have it vary based on amount of throttle input just like the current 727 does, and passing gear to work like it should.
If I get the "50mph option" for OD and the "52mph" LU, what would happen if I were to punch it? Would it go from OD-3rd automatically, or OD drop to 2nd automatically, and if it went from 4-2 with drop down would it upshift from 2nd right to OD and LU all at once when I let off the gas? Id want a more natural progression of upshifts and down shifts than that.

I'm currently bouncing around ideas in my head, (don't laugh/ it's a /6 currently with a 727 in it as stock, but I have built up the /6 a bit.... No plans to V8 swap.) Truck has a 3.21 rear in it as stock. I may eventually swap that to a lower ratio but not at present time.

I have either an 833 OD with everything else I would need to swap that in, and I have this a500 along with the adapter plate as used on 60s /6s that used a 727 since back then they didn't have a dedicated 727 case for the /6 so they used a SB 727 behind the /6 which is how it comes that I could even put the a500 behind this motor.

I'm debating which way I want to go with this truck, and have most of the parts for either option.
Well, I have all the parts if I decide to go stick, and all but the right length drive shaft, rear mount parts and whatever I'm gonna need to make OD and LU work as they should to use the a500 if that's the way I decide to go.
I'm asking these questions just figuring out what I'm getting myself into for this option since I have "most of" what I am gonna need on hand already.

Lookup hgmelectronics.com

Wonder if A&A has anything? I know they'll be there at Indy swap, they always are.
The problem becomes actually being able to talk to somebody there, they're always swamped when I go by their booth.

The other issue is trying to decide if I want to go that way in this truck or whether to put the 833OD I have here in, instead.
I have everything id need to go either way.

Nearing 60 with a lifetime as a mechanic, and a couple car accidents back when we didn't wear seatbelts, have killed my knees. A cruise that turned into a 2 hour traffic jam in my '72 Mini Cooper convinced me that only automatics are in my future...

Yeah I'm leaning towards the auto on this one myself... Not traffic accidents but a couple of work injuries over the years, my wife "knowing how but would rather not" drive a stick,
being 56 and getting up from a chair or off the creeper, sometimes is an exercise in stiffness/soreness, also from a lifetime of turning wrenches, with a handful of those years being as a millwright in a steel mill and most of the rest doing alignments and busting front end parts umm yeah. The only reason I'm even questioning which way to go is that I live in the country,
and never go into Chicago, rarely even get into the suburbs anymore/ most of my driving is pretty open roads these days....
I did have to go into the burbs today for something else and luckily I didn't have to wait for many red lights today... Usually I catch about 3 of every 4, red.
But I have everything and I do mean everything needed to do that swap, my son located a couple of pieces for me and I think would be disappointed if I stayed auto.
He's now like I used to be while he was growing up/ when everything I had was stick... He even converted his ramcharger to a stick. I don't mind driving that one, or his Cummins truck that's a 6 speed but I didn't much care to drive his VW "mileage beater".
I don't have anything stick no more and sometimes miss it.
I have a volare that I fully plan on putting in a 5 speed....
(I'm still not much on seat belts, that is a very sore subject with me, that's all I'm gonna say about that)

I've been looking into this on the AMC side of things, since I dislike both the price of a Gear Vendors and also that gargantuan tail shaft they make you use when coupling a GV to a 727.

It's a shame the 727 main case and 518 case are different.... it's not just a case of bolting a 518 tail onto an AMC 727.

42RH (A500) or 46RH (A518) are the transmissions you'd want. I think '88-'92 is the model year range for these.

In my case, there was an A500 used behind the 4.0-litre for a year or two in 2wd Cherokees. The 4.0 and AMC V8 share bellhousing patterns, but I don't know how long an A500 would live behind my 401.

I do have this crazy idea of chopping the bell area off an A518 and an AMC 727.... and making a bolt-on bell for the A518 using the pump housing bolts. Might need some spacers on the converter and maybe a device to center the converter but shouldn't increase overall length by too much. Adding studs to the case to accept the new bell and pump instead of bolts.... These are the things us AMC folk gotta deal with to survive.

This place also has a pretty simple kit for controlling/applying the overdrive in a vehicle that doesn't have the BCM to support it. Looks pretty straight forward.
https://transmissioncenter.net/shop...ere-for-727-to-46rh-swap-wiring-diagram/

I think I am going to start gathering up a couple A518's and cutting off the belhousings and purchasing some JW belhousings for a big block and swap out the old 727's for some better highway crusing in a couple of my cars.

I'm buying parts to put a small 360 stroker motor, 38? C.I. depending on the final bore size with a 3.83 stroke crank, I think that is the correct stroke. with EFI and a small turbo shooting for no more than 7.0 lbs. max boost. My question is can either of those overdrive tranny take 600 HP on the street with medium traction tires and suspension? Maybe I should call Dave at Pro Trans if no one on here knows about this application .
I'm wanting to use this car as a learning tool for me on both EFI and turbo charging with E85 as the fuel
All help appreciated

The 500 is a 904 , there is plenty of parts out there to hop up the 904 , to live behind your 401 I would think , build the OD to diesel spec and it should be fine?

I have the A500 in my '69 Valiant, it is the early trans without the lockup convertor, I have it wired to a dimmer switch on the floor, and tee'd to a small indicator light beside my oil/water gauges under the dash, hit it when I want the OD, as I don't use it around town, only on longer drives/cruises.

E-transcontrol makes a controller that will work with the RE or RH. I bought one for the 47RH behind the bigblock in my Ramcharger.

Ive seen the 518 without lockup but never seen a non lockup 500

They were in early V6 Dakota's, 1987 thru 1991 from what I was told by the trans shop I bought the core from, had Darren at ProTrans build it before they left California for Texas. I used a 10" 904 convertor in mine, since my 408 has a good-sized flat tappet solid lifter cam, idles nicely in gear with this convertor. I took the car on the Hot Rod Power Tour West back in December, 2000rpm at about 70, with 3.73's.

Buddy of mine built this 79 RR with 440 and 518 behind it . . .just used a switch to turn on/off OD . . . dropped the RPM by about 800RPM when turned on . . . was built long ago, and it had adapter for bellhousing to Big block and spacer on the crank to convertor. Think there used to be someone out there building those pieces . . . don't know much more than that . . .