Has anyone installed these springs using Cal Trac bars? Did they ever get adjusted right? I know they’re not recommended but I have both in my possession now, I would just use the springs but Dana has no pinion snubber, could make something I guess. Anyway what’s the opinion?

I tried in 1999. It didn’t work. Back then, the only recommendation was to swap out to oem leafs. If the shocks don’t have enough rebound valving, you’ll never experience wheel hop any worse. It was scary, feeling the rear end housing pounding against the floor.

Should't need a snubber with SS springs.

Talk to Cavert to see what they say. It might work if you take out half the leafs. My guess is that the SS springs by themselves are too stiff so you would need to remove leafs to make the spring softer. But I don't really know. I've always used a split monoleaf spring with the Caltrac bars. The split mono leaf is lightweight, adjustable and it works.

Which part number SS springs do you have and what car, transmission type and weight are you wanting to use them on?
The SS springs should make the rear of the car go up under acceleration causing more weight to help push the rear tires into pavement a lot harder and better

Springs are 002 003, 71 Duster Stock class 340 auto. Ive used these springs on a-body’s and b-body’s before but just by themselves. I’ve always had the snubber slightly off the floor. My goal is to leave like ladder bars or 4 link instead of the housing wrapping up like a spring losing 60 and ET.

Caltracs and superstock springs are both designed to add rise to the rear, so you will have a hard time controlling extension (jounce) unless you have a real good shock. I've seen folk try that combo and they've been disappointed with the results. My advice would be to use the S/S springs on their own or sell them and get the correct Calvert monoleafs for your intended application.

We tried it with 456/457 springs. Did not work at all! Installed split mono springs and it works perfect!

Springs are 002 003, 71 Duster Stock class 340 auto. Ive used these springs on a-body’s and b-body’s before but just by themselves. I’ve always had the snubber slightly off the floor. My goal is to leave like ladder bars or 4 link instead of the housing wrapping up like a spring losing 60 and ET. [/quote]

Have you run the car yet? Those springs have a stiiff enough front segment that they generally don't wind up. The short instant center does tend to seperate the housing. What shocks? Get the rear rebound tight enough and it'll slow the seperation.
Doug

I remember A body super stock springs being very good, #02#-03 so i bought a set last year, good joke ! VERY disappointed ! .....had to doctor them for sure , caltracks in the future.

Those springs were initially designed for the 4 speed full body Pro Stockers and the 4 speed stick shift 1968 Hurst Barracuda and Darts, not a SB A body automatic car
I've used those early made in U.S.A. 002/003 SS springs in a 1969 A body BB automatic bracket car, it weighed 3050 lbs. with me in it, and they worked fine in that car. It was not fast, ran low 11s at 121+ MPH
As already mentioned the correct part # SS springs will probably work better on your car than the 002/003 springs will

The 002/003 were first released on the 68 Hemi A bodies - both 4 speed and auto.

The main leafs on 002/003’s are the thickest of all the SS springs.

I ran S/S springs on my 68 Dart for years , it actually ran its best e.t. at 10.40 and best 60 ft 1.40 ( foot braking ) with them . When I went to Cal Tracs and mono leafs my 60 fts were not quite as good but they were more consistent . Currently I run on a throttle stop to run 11.50 : 60 fts are 1.48-1.52 depending on the track. Car is 3150 lbs with me in it , 410 inch small block, 904 , 4900 stall 8 inch converter , 4.30 rear , runs 10.80s off the stop

I do have a set that has thicker leafs than the 02-03s, NASCAR springs, same thickness as 65 AFX springs, but the N springs sit the car too low, (one side the main is flat, no arch), tires to far up in the wells, might try to re-arch them to match pass side. Reason I’m thinking S/S springs IS the car will still rotate from engine torque, rear housing will rotate for same reason, that’s why the bias. IMO

either s/s springs or caltracs, not both, can make s/s springs same leaf/length, 4/5 leafs, caltrac will say not to use

I’m looking to make the front segment stiff and not wrap up, remember the ladder-link setup? Very limited what we can do, just bolt on stuff

Try clamping every leaf on the front of the rear end housing that you can to the main leaf's on both sides first, maybe then try loosening the rear clamps or even try removing them for a run or two to see what your combination likes
Tests,, tests and tests some more until you break the speed of light

I was at dragway 42 in the 70s and i seen the abody car's rear half of the rear leaf spring seperating on the launch of the car .........no spring clamp's on the rear............that was then.

Remember that you have to make the front suspension work with the rear suspension for best results. Too soft or too stiff front shocks can negate any adjustments you make to the rear. But overall, I had best results by using the basic suspension parts (i.e.: SS springs, 6 cyl torsion bars, frames tied, etc.) but tuning the suspension action with different shocks or different shock adjustments on adjustable shocks. i.e.: Rancho 9 way on the rear and QA1 single adjustable drag shocks on the front.) As mentioned earlier (I think.)...I has SS springs & Mopar manual trans drag shocks on my Dart Sport and still had wheel hop under certain conditions. Switched to much stiffer Ranchos and the problem went away. Same track, same conditions.....it may have spun sometimes, but never wheel hopped again. You can have all the "rise" you can get in the rear, but that won't help traction in all cases, especially with modern high stall converters, better traction through tire and track improvements, etc. The shock ultimately controls separation and compression. The harder a car leaves, the more the rear suspension has to be controlled by stiffer shocks.

This is some of the info I’m looking for, thanks to all so far. Wanting to know what happens if using the two together, yes I have the rancho shocks plus the adjustable fronts, also no factory rubber bushings in front, lca, uca and strut, very free moving. 9” radials 5.13 gears 4600 dynamic vert low gear 904. Frame tied and cm cage, front to back