Hey guys,
I've been gone from the board for bit. The Dart has been sitting in a concrete parking structure for the past 4 years slowly falling apart.
Due to health, several operations and other boring facts, I have just recently started to try to get her back in drivable condition. As I am older and now retired, I am restricted in how much I can do. Just put rear brakes and cylinders on the car. Got it to roll and then suffered a setback when some thieves broke into the garage and stole the Crager.SS wheels and Firehawk tires. Put a set of spare old wheels on just to get it pulled home.
Now my need for help.
The starter has gone south. With the help of a friend and my grandson-in-law I am needing to replace it. The older header traps the starter. Plus has the steering running between the rear tubes The wiring has gotten crispy as well. I am contemplating replacing the headers by cutting them off, and going with a new type mini starter. What brand will not trap the new starter, allow for easier installation and clear the power steering and auto trans. linkage the best? Of the tree of us attempting the work, only one of us (me) has done automotive work. The car has lots of refreshing that needs to be done, new fuel tank, rag joint, maybe front brake cylinders, replacing stolen tires and wheels. And getting it to run of course. What do you think?

Can you just unbolt the header and wiggle the starter out without cutting it? Sounds like you have enough to do without causing an additional problem such as an exhaust system rework. Any access gain to starter if you remove the motor mount bolts also and shift the engine around a bit? Extra socket extensions and a wiggle socket help? Disassemble the starter and take it out in pieces? I'm not really sure what your exact constraints are.

What year Dart and motor is in it?

I feel your pain. I had a Charger BB that had a similar problem.

If you are going to replace it with a mini-starter then do like CYACOP suggested and disassemble the current starter in the car.

There are two 3/8" bolts on the back Remove them and the rear comes loose. You can move the rear housing back a little and another bolt will disconnect the field windings from the front half of the starter.

The armature is long but just slides out and since you are going to replace the starter don't be afraid to cut anything that is tying it together.

As for the best Mini Starter I have been using the later model mopar starters from the 90's. I'm sure other people have a better brand.

If that doesn't work then it looks like unbolting the header from the exhaust and cylinder head may be the first step. I also had to loosen the motor mount and raise the engine and unbolt the power steering too, just to get it to move out of the way enough to get the big starter in or out on my old Charger.

Good Luck.

This is going to be done in my carport now that I have it out of the storage garage.
Its a '68 Dart with a 360.
I have tried the unbolt header trick and still can't get my hands in to unbolt the starter or the wiring.

On some fords its easier to use 3 feet extensions and ratchet from in front of the fan belt.
I have several long extensions that I use for those and other starters.

Maybe you could use a similar technique?

Is the header unbolted from the exhaust? That should do it.
I liked the 1.75 hooker 5204 super comps. but I don't think they make them any more.

I don't want to be burned at the stake but with your current health and abilities, unless this is some kind of competition car I'd cut those headers out of there and go back to the stock cast iron 360 HP manifolds. Your current problem would go away and future problems won't exist.

I too would get rid of the headers. On my big block Dart I used a couple of long extensions to the front of the engine and was able to get the starter bolts out...

I took manifolds off my "cruise around town" car and put headers on years ago. Sure, there was a difference in the seat-of-the pants driving. But it was not worth all the headaches that go with headers--especially on a big block. Captured starters, exhaust leaks, coolant leaks, burned plug wires and starter wires, high underhood temps, rusty tubes, poor spark plug access, etc.

I have HP manifolds on my current car and I don't miss the headaches of headers.

If you do choose to replace with Headers TTI makes some good quality great fitting Headers. For example:
https://ttiexhaust.com/TTi34025.htm

Starter failure and crispy wiring tells me that too-close header heat has cooked that stuff.
So, unless that combination changes and/or the starter & wiring are protected by a heat barrier, it'll happen again.
I'd also consider using manifolds for a strictly street car.
And I'm sorry for the run of bad luck; thieves suck.

Thanks for the replies.
This car has been my bucket list vehicle that I have been working on since '95. It was a rescued racer, lots of removed parts and I have used it as a weekend cruiser and show and shine car.
I have a tendency to lean toward the cut out old headers and install the Dakota starter, and TTI coated headers. The cars has 3" exhaust and flowmaster mufflers. Along the way we'll replace the motor mounts, rag joint and maybe the ball joints and some other front suspension parts. Also the u-joints need updating.
It will take awhile but what else do I need to do since I'm now retired-----