Been a few years but my friends 71 Challenger had a spat with my 69 Charger and somehow in the sisterly abuse I got his bumper through my center grill piece, my I trim and the hood. I am no stranger to body work but its been over a decade since I have done it. I have some body hammers and dollies. Probably the best tool I have for the job is my stud welder from Magna-Spot and the pin puller. I am also no stranger to painting but I have never laid down basecoat and clearcoat and that probably why I haven't desired to tackle the job until now. It's just bugging me at his point and I want to fix the crease. Do I have to paint the whole hood? I have been watching a few videos on youtube but they all begin with spot repair and then it turns into them spraying the whole body panel. Attached two pics below

Could I get away with pin welding, hammering, light filler, sanding, and using rattle cans? I have two HVLPs...Devilbiss and Sata. My local paint shop guy has mixed the PPG code for the color in a rattle can and then I have also used 2K clear with the ampule you break in the rattle can for the catalyst.

Of course you can. I would think repairing the dent would be no big deal. If you are concerned about BC/CC, I am going to assume the hood was repainted in BC/CC which means it's fairly new.. If your paint supplier can give you a good color match it should work. You may have to buff the repair after a period of time to get the gloss back but really, what's the worst that can happen?

See what your local PDR guy can do. It's impressive what they can get out and make look new.

PDR guy could most likely get that back to no filler needed condition if there is access from the back. The paint job may be able to be spotted in by someone who is well practiced in it.

The paint appears to be lifting so Paintless may get the dent but it will still need to be sanded and re-shot.

Base & Clear are not a big deal. If you can shoot any paint you can shoot them. Maybe I am too anal but I try to copy the color of the primer too. i.e. red, grey or etc..

The reason most people shoot the whole panel is they are like me and suck at blending old & new paint. They say the trick is to sand and spray to a body line and not to try to blend in the middle of the panel. I will take their word for it since I can't blend very well so I just shoot the whole panel.

I have had limited luck with my magnaspot stud welder on old cars. The metal is thick on our old stuff and thin on these new disposable cars.

I say go for it. The worst thing that can happen is you have to pay somebody to finish what you started.

That same thought went through my mind and I was going to go with the gray primer as what we prepped it. DP50LF PPG I remember.

I have seen a few videos on soft edge BC/CCand then buff it out. Like you said. Maybe it doesn't come out right and I have to pay someone to redo it. It's just I live in Greece and I don't really trust anyone around me to work on any body panels older than 1995. I still have sealed primer DP and BC DCC quarts of paint from a 20yrs ago. Never opened and I glue gunned the seam on the lid just to prevent humidity from entering the container but I am keeping those for major damage.

We give it a shot and cross our fingers for the best outcome

The way it's typically done-after the dent repair, feather out, prime and block............whole panel is prepped to 600-800,
the basecoat is blended in the repair area and then outward far enough to hide the blend.

Typically the basecoat color is mixed with
an intercoat clear, also known as "clear base" to weaken the color enough to allow it to be blended....and technique wise,
the spray gun is deliberately angled out from the surface/not held perfectly straight to make the metallics blend outward.

After the blend, whole panel is clear coated as many as you need. If you aren't the best painter with the best environment give yourself
extra clear to wet and and polish....extend your flash times at or near the maximum to stack up enough coats to work with.

Also try to maintain the environment as close to 70F or above.

The clear coat "can" be spotted in, but is typically more of a used car lot/general daily driver vehicle type of repair, as the edges of the spot will can potentially show
up after a little time in the sun, you buff it out and they appear again, over and over and it gets thinner and thinner. A '69 Charger really deserves a first class effort.....I suggest blend the base and clear the whole panel.

YouTube search "Blending silver metallic paint" and watch Brian on Paint Society for direction and demonstration how how to blend basecoat.
Watching him is how I learned to do it. Your color is easier than silver (Actually I think any color is easier than silver).

Autobody101.com is to body and paint, as moparts is for mopars in general.....very good forum, worth a look.

Wow! Thanks for the tip, just signed up.