Hi all, I'm at the point where its time to install the drip rail moidings on the ole 69 Bee.... these freakin' things look pretty fragile so I don't want to screw these up from the get-go. Any pointers, tricks, or special tools needed for this operation ? Any info would greatly help, thanks.

Later, BUZZ

Put them on from the top of the rail down and I just open hand slap them with my hand and they snap into place.

What's the best way to remove them without damage??? Have them on a parts car and of course don't want to kink or warp them.

Thanks!

Removal method is to roll the windows down and lightly bump them loose from the backside going outward and slightly upward along the bottom edge with a small block of wood as a drift punch. Might want to have a helper hold them so they don't fall on the floor.

The can opener method so many use can put dents/marks in them if you get in a hurry.

Thanks to all who replied, great removal tips but..... my problem is the installation trying to get these things on without bending or denting them. How in the f**k did they get them on the cars without damaging them as the cars moved down the assembly line? I guess they had some kind of special installation tool for this. I can't see one guy holding the drip rail and the other trying to fist bump them to get them to snap into place.

Later,BUZZ

Lots of Youtube videos here...I have successfully used the bottle opener technique.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=remove+car+drip+rail+mouldings

They hook over from the top and snap in at the bottom based on how they are shaped. Try putting the top edge on first and rolling the bottom part down over the edge.

Not a Mopar, but the concept in this video is similiar. https://youtu.be/aKc9CD62wI4?si=xo7J4qygWBYwZkma

I have used the bottle opener very successfully. I wrap the end with electrical tape. This coushins the trim from the metal of the bottle opener.

I've used a bottle opener many times to remove drip rail stainless. Just start at one end and work towards the other end. If it is 2 piece, start at the far end of the piece that overlaps the other one. Using a rag at the top end helps keep from scratching or denting it. I have also removed it with Channel Locks and a rag. To install it, I just start at an end and hook it over the top edge like everyone else does and pop it in place with the bottom of the palm of my hand.
Do you know there's 2 different sizes of drip rail stainless trim? The kind for a vinyl top car has a green stripe on the inside of it and the non vinyl top trim does not. The vinyl top trim is ever so slightly bigger because the vinyl is trimmed to fold over the top edge of the drip rail when it is installed and glued into the drip rail.

There are two different styles depending on if you have a vinyl top or not. If you have a vinyl top and put the non-vinyl molding on it will be too tight, and if you put a vinyl top style on a non vinyl car they will be too loose...

Thanks to all who replied, I think you guys figured it out for me.... the dip rail moldings that I'm trying to put on are repros, didn't see any green stripe and they are way too tight in my opinion. I guess they're only one type of repro rails out there. If anyone knows of a repro set (made for vinyl top cars) please let my know who offers them.

Later, BUZZ