SRT Charger/challenger oil change ramps ? Home made or store bought ? Store bought where ? And how high are they? I found a plastic set .. but they are just 2 1/2 inches high ! … worthless! If homemade .. specs and pics please !

Made some for mine:
2 - 2x6s, can be 24-36" long, side by side with a couple 2x4s underneath holding them together.
One 2x4 is at the end, the other is a few inches from the other end.
You can do it with 1 2x8, too.
To get on them, I use another length of 2x8 wedged underneath, into the recess that the offset 2x4 leaves.
Easy to drive onto, unlike the store-bought ramps that push away as you try to drive up on them.
Sorry no photos, they're packed for next week's move.

these work well for me https://www.amazon.com/BISupply-Vehicle-Service-Ramp-Set/dp/B07NLJVZ2D Lower than the Rino ramps and a longer less angled on ramp. Works on all my cars now. Much cheaper than race ramps

i think an outfit called "race ramps" [?] make low clearance ramps.
nice, but not your wally world price.

https://www.raceramps.com/

Not cheap but probably have what you're looking for.

Mike.

I have the rhino ramps. They work for all of my vehicles. If I had anything lower than my wife's 97 Firebird T/A I would consider Eastwood Detachable Ramps. The incline is longer and removable. Unfortunately they cost more than twice as much as the rhinos. If you need the really long ramps then Race Ramps are it but very expensive.

Rinos didn`t work on my beetle or my old car with a front spoiler . The ramps I posted worked fine but they are heavy.

Mine are just the old heavy gauge stamped steel ramps, probably 12" high (or close, anyway). They have bracing on the underside, which some of the new ones don't. Had 'em for 20+ years...still good as they ever were.

Here is my idea for home built wood ramps.

The ramps will be 4" long by 12.5" inches high when finished.

Items needed:
4, 2x8X10" or 2x8X12" (depending on tire width).

Cut lengths:
2 @ 48"
2 @ 40"
2 @ 32"
2 @ 24"
2 @ 16"
2 @ 4" for stops on the last piece

Cut a maximum of 45 degree angle on one end of each piece. Shallower angle of 30 degree if needed.

Start with the longest one and screw them together one at time stacking them. Keeping them a 45 degree angle on the uncut angled edge. The top piece will be 16" long by 10"/12" wide. Screw the 4" piece as a stop on this piece.

Thoughts, if you have 20" or larger rims you may want to scale up by 4" to 6" in length for each piece, to keep more of the center of the tire on each level.

I don't know that 6" lift would be enough for me to consider buying a set. I think I'd have to have more lift to really appreciate them, although on my Charger 6" would be enough to remove the belly pan and THEN I could reach a spot on the frame with my hydraulic jack.

The other thing I look for when considering a set is that they advertise that they don't slide. Some are known to slide.

I use regular ramps but place a 2x12 about 3 feet long in front of the ramp.

I drive up on the wood and then onto the ramp.

Cheap and works like a charm.

since i can't weld wood, [searched high and low for a "wood rod", but nobody has 'em. ] if i were making some, i would go to my local scrap yard and get used 2x2x1/4" angle, then model the ramps like the ones used with car trailers.
unfortunately, they would be pretty heavy for this old weakling to rassel around into position when needed.
i have a couple of the old style drive on ramps that everyone has, [or has had at one time or other] the bad thing about those is they are [almost] too narrow for today's common tire sizes.
i have been toying with the idea of cutting a pair in two, lengthwise, then adding a section of 1/8" plate with a bunch of dimple die holes, [almost too much work to do] or a piece of perforated metal between the pieces to widen them.
however, that would still not address the approach angle.
as i like to over-engineer things that will support 4000lbs above ME, it still ends up being heavy, weight wise..........

I bought these and love them. Not what you are looking for but boy are they handy for pulling transmissions and maintenance.


https://myliftstand.com/gallery/

My vote is Raceramps. I had homemade wood ones that worked great for awhile, but they are heavy and bulky. Raceramps are made for low riding cars if you get the right ones. They are spendy, I was able to order when a friend was at SEMA. They are so light weight you can't believe they can support a car.

I agree, Raceramps are what we use.

Thanks guys for all the info. I did not need any as 90 percent of the time i use my buddies lift since he has 4 at his nice home shop.
I was asking for a friend with new charger. He says he is making them out of wood. I told him.they are gonna be heavier than a girl ya meet on internet web sites.
But as,always i started looking and want a set fir myself. Did get a set of 4 Flat Spot Savers since tires when up.
Only low car we have is a Civic and hardly ever needs work but will grab a set of some kind of Raceramp or knock offs for it. Unlesstge real ones go on sale

Pitts-Burger Guy darn those jack stand lift things are 1000 Semolinans plus tax amd shipping

My oil change ramps are made from 2x8's. (1) 3' (1) 2' and (1) 1' per ramp nailed together. They give an extra 4-1/2" clearance. I beveled the leading edge of each piece so the transition would be smoother. With the 2x8's flat on the ground, there is nothing that could possibly fail. They are completely solid. I did not add a built-in stop at the end for the tire to hit. If I had to do it over, I would add one so there is no guessing how far I'm on the last foot of ramp before driving over the edge.(I have not done that...yet)

I have some race ramps brand ramps that work good for getting under my Challenger.