Some other things to check that come to mind. Is the car using all of the components, other than clutch assy, that it came with from Ma Mopar? Or is it a mix and match? Did someone swap in an a-body A engine trans in and not know that the B engine trans use the larger from bearing retainer which is bb/hemi only? Giving you hotdog in the hallway since the A trans uses the smaller retainer therefore trans to bell housing alignment is not happening.

I bought a H code 1969 GTS in the early 1990s minus the original motor, tranny and shifter, console, and tach and exhausts system, I didn't know at that time it was GTX due to the car having all the GTS emblems and decals remove long before I bought it the first time. I ended up putting a late 383 4 speed motor and A body 4 speed in the car with a bunch of mismatched clutch linkage parts and a scatter shield with a 11.0 inch racing type clutch and pressure plate I had at that time, needless to say it didn't work well and was hard to shift smoothly I found out it was a GTX, not a GT , on the day the new owner picked the car up by decoding the original fender tag
I ended up buying it back later and started trying to put it back to like it was built, the other owner had replaced the old misfitting mechanical clutch linkage with a hydraulic clutch kit which I didn't like. I bought new OEM clutch linkage parts from Brewers, I think, and replace the scatter shield and 11.0 inch clutch with a 1965 B body 10.5 inch clutch bellhousing and a Center Force diaphragm type street clutch and pressure plate. That helped a bunch on the shifting cleanly.
My message is it looks like to me that you have a bunch of mismatch parts that aren't working well together, I took one picture of my car the way it is now, not perfect with all the OEM parts but is has everything except the original 383 bell housing which does affect the original type Z bar alignment, see the attach picture.
I wish I could take a picture of the Z bar and clutch rod, but I can't right now, sorry
The clutch rod alignment is critical, it needs to be straight and level to work properly, my Z bar is misaligned a little bit probably due to the wrong year bell housing , it should be straight across from the ball on the bell housing, not a little bit misaligned like it is now
IHTHs
There is one thing you should check closely on the clutch disc to flywheel clearance, it should have at least .030 or more clearance between the flywheel and clutch disc with the clutch pedal depress all the way to the floor.
Please let us know what you find and due to fix it

Once again, a big thanks to all.

Cab, The clearance has been measured in several places between the PP with the disc on one position and again with the PP stationary and rotating the disc. all measurements were even at ~ .057"
John, I know the linkage is Bubbafied and plan on straightening that out and getting back to factory if I can find or make the parts. I can't be sure but do not think the linkage is causing the issue. it's hosed up but does appear to be functioning. Locating a correct Z bar is likely going to be the biggest problem.


I don't know what what or why they had to butcher up the original Z bar. But that part currently does not appear to be available so far. I need to do a deeper search but so far no luck everywhere I've looked and brewer's is out of stock. Any suggestions are welcome

my next choices are:
1. Find a correct used one which I'm not sure how one identifies what is correct
2. Possibly find someone that has one out of the car that can take measurements of the Arms from the center of the tube to the center of the pin. I can then see what is in the assortment of parts as well as the one in the car. With the measurements I can likely make one of the three work.

Unfortunately what appears to be the original has had one of the two arms whacked off. THANKS BUBBA

I would obviously trust one from Brewers but not sure who else one could trust from a repro standpoint. Which member was the Dart specialist parts guy? DBartman or Rhinodart?
Thanks again

Holy crap! Some people should NOT be allowed to work on big block A-body's! I didn't read the whole thing but was the car complete and running before the clutch change? It is all straight forward with factory parts, which are all known and available except the bell housing that needs to be sourced, which is the 372 bell but also the 370 bell works just missing the hole for the spring which I didn't see in any of your pictures. I would NEVER use a diaphram clutch, no reason for it except less effort, but you can use a hydraulic throwout bearing if you have a weak knee. A mirror finish flywheel? Are they stoned or stupid? And not turning a used flywheel is also insane. I wish I was close by I could then tell why the bellcrank is at an angle, couldn't tell with the pictures. I do have pictures of my factory set-up, but it will take a bit to find them. In the picture of the parts I see a cut-up factory big block A-body bell crank and a small block bell crank. The ball stud bracket is a factory A-body piece also.

Any 10-1/2” flywheel will work also and Cab, you kept saying GTX (b-body) I’m sure you meant GTS

Your correct on the car being a real GTS, not a GT like I was told it was when I took it in trade back in the early 1990s. It had a GT decal on the trunk panel and 1967 Dart GT door panel with the original GTS inside door emblem removed and missing when I got that car
I learned later that Dodge did offer the 383 in the 1967 and 1968 Drat GT but not in the 1969 Dart GT Only Swingers and GTS got the 383 motors in 1969