Bought wrecked 2006 300c SRT8 as an engine donor. After some precision bodywork with an excavator and a 5/16" chain to get the electric fan off the pulleys I am trying to test-fire the engine to no avail.
Have solid power, fuel pump primes (by sound) but I have a "no-crank" situation. No click, no clunk, no nothing when turning the key to start. Brake pedal goes slowly to the floor and there is significant damage to the left front suspension (broken a-arm, shock, steering rack etc.).

I suspect a brake line is cut/broken and the switch is pressure activated so the computer will not allow it to crank.
Am I correct? If so, where is the switch so I can bypass it?

Also, where is the oil filter located on a 6.1? It is suspiciously low on oil and I suspect the filter may have been impacted. What I can see of the undercarriage so far does NOT point to oil pan damage. The engine compartment is ridiculously tight on these even without the "co-mingling of parts" from the accident.
Thanks all!

The oil filter is located at the lower right front of the engine (like all gen3 Hemi's).

I've never heard of any switch requiring brake line pressure to start the engine.
It does have to be in neutral or park.

I would suspect no crank has something to do with the alarm system but that just me.

Run the codes and see what the computer is saying

I had an '06 Charger SRT8. Great car, I loved that 6.1. Anyway I don't think it's brakes either. Maybe alarm as mentioned. I can only imagine what sensors may have been damaged too though, causing no start. Crank position sensor maybe. That is at right rear of block though but who knows with the moving around of the vehicle. Can you even access shifter and move it to different positions to see if it's misaligned?

Thanks for the speedy responses folks!
I was likely confusing "hold brake to start" with "hold brake to put in gear" yesterday...it was a hectic day.
The shifter might be an option. I recall the cover plate being loose so maybe it's been fiddled with. I was finally able to shift it through the "gates" but the airbag was covering the gauges so I didn't see if the indicator was changing.

I'll also pull the codes and see what's up. I've bought dozens of wrecks like this and never had this type of issue with no-crank.

I would think a crank/cam position sensor would allow it to crank but not fire. Am I wrong?

Now for a little rant (cover your ears kids)....whoever thought those tin lug nut covers were a good idea should have them crimped onto VERY sensitive body parts and then spend the next calendar year travelling around the country with the factory supplied lug wrench to remove them from people's vehicles.

Codes as follows:
P0073 ambient air temp
U0121 (multiple offenses)
U0002 (maybe also multiple)
U1120

After multiple attempts everything but the U1120 was able to be deleted. My reader only says that:
U=Network
0 in the first slot=generic
1 in the first slot= manufacturer specific
1 in the second slot= fuel and air metering
3rd and 4th slots identify malfunctioning circuit.

It's really only useful for P0xxx codes.

There does not appear to be an issue related to the alarm. There are no blinking lights/clicking when I get in, everything else works and the key/fob will lock/unlock the doors no problem.

U1120 ABS error
U0121 = loss of comms with ABS
U0002 Code - High Speed CAN Communication Bus Performance

Looks like you lost communication witht eh ABS system.

Not sure if that would cause a no start though.

The U0121 lost comm with ABS would at least turn over if not start. Not sure about the CANBus

Is there a way to temporarily bypass the alarm system?

Little bump up for the folks now recovered from the long weekend.

What's the little silver box attached to the side of the TIPM do? It's got a decent dent in it.

THIS?

Yup. Thought it was on the side of the "fuse box" but I haven't been under that hood since last week so...

If it's what I think you're talking about it's a front control module.

Technically it's not a fuse block anymore, last thing I knew they were calling it a Totally Integrated Power Module aka TIPM or Integrated Power Module aka IPM.

Everything is a computer anymore. lol

Usually the thing on the side that has an aluminum cover is the front module (controls headlights among other things).

I've sold a few of them when I parted out some Ram trucks from that era to people who were having headlight problems.

Has the ABS unit been impacted? It needs to see battery power, ignition, ground and BUS communication. If any of those circuits or the unit itself is damaged the car will not crank.
Doug

You may be on to something here. Pedal goes to the floor and I seem to recall things being extra tight around the spaghetti of lines near the ABS. I'll look into this further.

dvw, would residual pressure in the braking system be a requirement? I was walking past the car today and gave it a quick once over. The flex line to the l/f caliper has a tear in it. There appears to be a switch in the system kind of between the l/f strut tower and the firewall
(which are closer together now than from the factory ) that may have issues too but I didn't have time for a thorough inspection.

Anybody else have input/suggestions?

as you mentioned the lf caliper flex line has a tear in it, in my opinion, it needs replaced.
and if i were to replace one flex line [on any vehicle] i would replace them all, bleed the system, then go from there.
just my opinion. your mileage will vary.