Just asking, has anyone used a block machined to fit in the splines of a spool to butt the axles and use the stock tapered bearings? Since the axles will not spin aluminum could be used. Got an axle with aftermarket axles and a posi, want to use a spool, just trying to save the time and cost of changing out the bearings. I got a lathe, so the block is an easy deal.

I don't see why that wouldn't work though I wouldn't use alum as it will probably get chewed up by the harder steel axle . do you have an old one legger diff acting as a door stop that you could rob the thrust block out of ?

Find an open diff, take the thrust block that is held in by the cross pin and throw it into the spool. Been running my spool that way for 4-5 years.

Thanks that is what I wanted too here. I would see no reason why it wouldn't work.

Why not buy new axles with the green bearings so you don't have to worry about the setting up the axle endplay, clearances with the adjuster, I have had the inner races get stuck before being fully seated into the housing and thought it was adjusted properly to find out later after driving it on the street that it had a bunch of end play after inner race seated all the way Luckily I caught it before it failed I hate Murphy

IT has new axles and bearings in it, trying to save a little money. I have no issues with adjusting the tapered bearing style axles, and I think if you would measure the rotational effort you will find the tapered bearings spin easier when set up right, and they last a lot longer than green bearings. And as far as problems go have seen fellow racers who did not heat and set the retainer ring properly on green bearings walk an axle out during a run. Hard on tires and fenders.