512 getting warm.
#3153574
06/22/23 02:13 PM
06/22/23 02:13 PM
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 880 Missouri
jwb123
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 880
Missouri
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Built a 512 out of a 400 for a 77 dodge 4x4 truck. Mild engine 10 to 1 hand ported 452 heads, .520 lift 220 duration hydraulic roller camshaft. FiTech injection on a single plane intake. Engine ran good on the dyno 500HP @ 5,250 rpm and 540 ft. lbs 4,400 rpm exhaust temps were 1,300 degrees. Put in the truck and it agaibn runs really good, but it will slowly keep building heat until it gets to 250 degrees will do that just cruising in just a few miles.
So, I did the following I installed a new 4 core aluminum radiator, high flow water pump and water pump housing, tried a 160 thermostat and then just took out the thermostat. twin 1,200cfm cooling fans, and a new clutch for the stock fan. I even took the engine back out took it all apart and could not find anything wrong. I re-flushed the water jackets, and drilled extra cooling holes in the head gaskets. Honed a little more clearance in the cylinder walls, took some ignition and camshaft timing out of it. It did make it some better, but still in about 6 miles the temp slowly just keeps creeping up to 250 degrees. I have never in my life had an engine ack like this.
With a heat gun it shows a 20 degree drop in temp across the radiator, is there a rule of thumb for how much temp a radiator should drop?
Any other ideas? I have the timing down to 6 degrees at idle and 32 degrees total. It does have a vacuum advance and it does work replaced it and rebuilt the distributor. It does not spark knock that I can hear until it gets really warm and then just a little . Just looking at the FiTech controller the O2 says 14 to 14.5 air fuel ratio on cruise.
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Re: 512 getting warm.
[Re: metallicareload]
#3153586
06/22/23 03:19 PM
06/22/23 03:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,376 Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,376
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Add timing and see how it reacts. Retarding timing will make it run hotter.
CHIP '70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60 '69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60 '71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75 '73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75 '90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt '06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: 512 getting warm.
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#3153589
06/22/23 03:22 PM
06/22/23 03:22 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,237 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,237
Bend,OR USA
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Last edited by Cab_Burge; 06/22/23 03:29 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: 512 getting warm.
[Re: Dart451]
#3153610
06/22/23 04:49 PM
06/22/23 04:49 PM
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 880 Missouri
jwb123
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 880
Missouri
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Whos water pump did you use? I've had problems with cast fin high flow pumps in the past.
You should have lot of air flow with electric fans, is there a shroud on stock fan? Any dumb reason your electric fans are fighting the stock fan?
FlowKooler Hi-Flow Mechanical Water Pumps 1679, is the one I used, stock pump acted the same way. The truck is a factory 400 big block, I just replaced the 3 core brass radiator with a 4 core aluminum radiator, the old radiator did the same thing, put a new OEM thermostatic fan clutch, and the shroud is stock, fan is about 3/4 inch from the radiator Electric fans are pushing stock fan is pulling.
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Re: 512 getting warm.
[Re: jwb123]
#3153736
06/23/23 07:31 AM
06/23/23 07:31 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,070 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,070
U.S.S.A.
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Whos water pump did you use? I've had problems with cast fin high flow pumps in the past.
You should have lot of air flow with electric fans, is there a shroud on stock fan? Any dumb reason your electric fans are fighting the stock fan?
FlowKooler Hi-Flow Mechanical Water Pumps 1679, is the one I used, stock pump acted the same way. The truck is a factory 400 big block, I just replaced the 3 core brass radiator with a 4 core aluminum radiator, the old radiator did the same thing, put a new OEM thermostatic fan clutch, and the shroud is stock, fan is about 3/4 inch from the radiator Electric fans are pushing stock fan is pulling. Have you tried it without the electric fans blocking airflow ? I'm with birdtracker with a question on your EGT, what RPM and condition is that at ?
running up my post count some more .
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Re: 512 getting warm.
[Re: B1MAXX]
#3153932
06/24/23 12:03 AM
06/24/23 12:03 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,220 Someplace you aren't
SomeCarGuy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,220
Someplace you aren't
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Spring in hose?
Try different water pump housing. Some aluminum ones have given guys trouble. Believe some. People tried porting them.
Putting in a fatter tune seems like low hanging fruit.
I want my fair share
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Re: 512 getting warm.
[Re: jwb123]
#3161561
07/21/23 10:10 AM
07/21/23 10:10 AM
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 880 Missouri
jwb123
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 880
Missouri
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OK for all those that replied to the thread, and those that might have a similar issue. Took out 4 core stock replacement aluminum radiator installed two core cold case aluminum radiator, installed solid flex fan, in place of factory fan. Moved radiator forward a little so the blades of the fan set properly in the shroud. After those mods going down the highway it cooled good, 170 degrees on a hot day, but would still warm up at idle. In looking at the pulleys from stock to the serpentine belt conversion, stock overdrove the water pump, conversion underdrove it. Took a while but I found a smaller water pump pulley to spin pump faster. Now on highway 150 degrees and 170 degrees idle. No thermostat and just water because I was changing so much stuff. I guess this kind of puts to rest the idea that you have to slow down coolant to give it time to transfer heat. My next thing is why would a company design a conversion to make a vehicle get hot? Their tech guy could not answer that. And another company told me he had all kinds of specs and info on GM and Ford kits , but nothing on Mopar's, heck he could not even tell me the diameter of the pulleys, I had to call back after he pulled some from the shelf.
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