It's a drag link for my 74 W200. No one is making a replacement part currently. This is a Skyjacker adjustable drag link that is supposed to fit but doesn't. This end needs to be pretty much straight. I've searched for other tie rod ends but dimensions are hard to find. It needs to be about 8.5" long from the stud center to the end of the shank. The shank is 1" x18 thread, the stud large taper about .750" and the small taper about .625".

I believe this is a forging, it has a wide parting line like a forged crankshaft would. If I can safely bend this without ruining it that would be preferable. My only other option would be to make a drag link with tubing and heim joints.

Two technicians that had an alignment shop behind the Woodward Garage (Chrysler’s race shop offsite from Highland Park) regularly heated tie rod ends, idler arms and pitman arms to get bump steer under control back in the 60’s and 70’s.

They did my brother’s car in 1967, this car has seen countless passes without an issue.

A street vehicle is subject to more stress but done carefully you would be fine.

My suggestion is to heat it while in a press until it yields to your desired angle. Let it cool slowly.

74 has the vertical pitman arm correct?

Use a full tie rod assembly from a 92 D250 with 4000lb front end. You'll get replaceable ends and an adjustment too..

If you need a little drop due to lift,, use the inner end from a 92 B350 with 4000lb axle. It's a little too long so you'll have to do some trimming and lose some adjustment.

The vertical was used I believe through 1978 then they went horizontal. The link pictured looks to be for the horizontal style.

There are at least 2 NORS drag links for that truck on ebay as of today for 150 bucks , which is reasonable. Just a fyi. Probably better metal than the skyjacker stuff?

part numbers posted here
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2482473/all/pitman-arm-source.html

I assume this is the style you're thinking?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/295481454560

That one is for the king pin Dana 60, but I appreciate it.

Yes the vertical arm. I thought about looking at my D250 set up, lol, I guess I will now, thanks.

Yes, however they list it as fitting 61 to 93 trucks. I knew it didn't look the same but thought I'd try it anyway.

I've never been concerned about heating and bending a forging. The temp needed to bend a forging is not high enough to weaken it . In the good ol' days guys heated and bent axle beams to make "dropped" axles for hot rods.

So I went out and measured my 92 D250 with the 4000 pound axle. Center of stud to center of stud is 17". The drag link is 18.5". The adjusting sleeve is 4.5" long, so not sure how much thread engagement I would have at 18.5", or how much I need.

If it was anything other than a steering component I probably wouldn't worry about it either, but it is, so I am. lol

As long as you can heat it and bend it without screwing up the threads on the end, all is good. Heating and bending that forged part isn't going to hurt it as long as its bent slowly. Do not get a small area cherry red and quickly force it into position.

The proper procedure is to heat an inch (or more) wide area and apply even pressure until it moves fairly easily to where you want it moved to. Let cool slowly and naturally, use nothing to speed up the cooling process.

Should you need to bend it a little more, or a little less, reheating the same area is not a problem, use the same process as the 1st time. If you need to modify the bend, there is no need to let it cool completely until you are finished bending it. Again, heating a wider area hot enough to slowly bend without much force, and natural slow cooling it the trick.

I'd be afraid that the rod end has one of those plastic inserts that would disappear with heat.

Use anti-heat around the tie rod end, pack it good to help keep heat out of grease.

[quote. [/quote]
If it was anything other than a steering component I probably wouldn't worry about it either, but it is, so I am. lol [/quote] Are you feeling really lucky
I would buy a new or good use one instead of trying to change the one you have, once bit, twice shy
BTW, Murphy HATES ME

Thats about the only thing I would worry about but he's been wrenching long enough to keep the heat off the socket/joint.

Gus

Exactly what I'm thinking.

So you might need the van tie rods. Or there may be a longer sleeve available. Or, verify that your steering box is centered and double check your measurements. You'll need to remove the drag link to do that.

I did this swap on my 77 and used the van tie rod due to a binding situation at the axle end. Truck has a lift kit.

The advantage of hot forging is that the hammer blows leave the surface of the metal part with “residual compressive stress”.
Since fatigue cracks need tensile ( pull apart) stress to start and grow bigger, forging creates parts that last longer in service because small cracks are less likely to start and grow.

If you.bend the part
tensile stresses will be left on the inside of where the curve used to be,
and compressive stresses will be left on the outside of where the curve used to be.

Another technique similar to forging
is shot peening
to create surface compressive stresses to reduce the danger of fatigue cracks.

If you must bend the originally forged suspension part,
sand down or emory cloth the area to bright shiny metal where the curve used to be,
then shot peen that area.
If you do not have access to shot peening balls ( steel BB’s) for a sand blaster
you can use the round end of a small ball-peen hammer to thoroughly dimple mark the area.
Pay special attention to where the inside of the curve was.

For 5 years I graded laboratory reports from engineering students who were doing “failure analysis” on broken parts.
I can remember broken suspension coil springs from cars and trucks.
All of those had failed from fatigue cracks that started on the outside of the curved spring wire and bit by bit extended the crack toward the inside of the curve.
This leaves a distinctive “clamshell” surface that is the “calling card” of fatigue.

I would guess most suspension parts fail from fatigue, not sudden overload.

If you modify the part,
even with shot peening,
and then a road accident occurs where the truck suddenly veers into the oncoming lane for a head on collision,
killing 2 to 8 people,
your insurance company will say they are not legally required
to cover claims due to non factory parts.
That may be of no added consequences if there is already a lift kit.

We all live on the edge and die someday, enjoy while you’re here!